Intake porting

cecil bass

Member
Joined
Aug 27, 2012
What's a estimate cost to have a intake manifold ported? Just wondering so i don't pay too much or not get quality work Just let me know from your experiences. Thanks

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What other mods do you have? A ported intake is a waste of $ with stock heads. Even with ported heads all that needs to be done is light work to the runners mainly at the end.
 
What's a estimate cost to have a intake manifold ported? Just wondering so i don't pay too much or not get quality work Just let me know from your experiences. Thanks

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With what you have in your sig .. . you might as well burn the $300 bucks .. even on a mid 10 second car... its not worth the money .... just seems to make guys feel better thinking they have a hi-po part on there.

your going to find more performance in a set of valve springs or honing in your tune than you will a ported intake.
IF you have E85 in your area .. for not much more you will gain a significant amount ... if you don't have E85 in your area .. get a Alky Control kit .. both of those options will produce significant gains.
 
Im just going with everything stock internal right now .... just looking for combo to get me in mid to low 11`s...... as far as springs i just got a set of comp cam springs are these good enough?

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Comp 980s are a good choice for the stock cam. Regardless of the springs you go after though you will be doing yourself a favor by making sure the installed heights are correct.
 
Im just going with everything stock internal right now .... just looking for combo to get me in mid to low 11`s...... as far as springs i just got a set of comp cam springs are these good enough?

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stock turbo wont get you there... .. you will need a turbo for that.. also injectors .. at lower 11's the trans is on borrowed time
 
I have #60 injectors, a steve monroe TB, looking for turbo /TC combo, getting a new intercooler, and alky kit, new 3" exhaust and 3" TH downpipe

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Comp 980s are a good choice for the stock cam. Regardless of the springs you go after though you will be doing yourself a favor by making sure the installed heights are correct.
what height should they be at and if they need adjustment what kind of spacers can be used?
 
Im gonna get the rear end rebuilt ,but what upgrades do i need for my tranny ?
For the cost of the hardened parts, etc, add the little more and get one already built for the goal you have in mind. The mod's you are considering may qualify you for a stage II from Lonnie @ ext. automatics or one of your favorite tranny builders.
The spring ht. was just quoted this past week in one of the posts. I think(?) it was 1.8". Some will jump in w/the correct ht.
 
As the others have said, don't waste the money on the intake, just port match. My engine produces 610 to the wheels, thanks to Cal, w/the intake runners mismatched ~.050" and the oval ATR header flanges blocking the exhaust substantially on race ported T/A heads. At this level, I would probably have a significant gain by port matching the int. and changing the headers, but it's just a street car.
 
Spring height is set to avoid coil bind and get the desired seat pressure. A stock cam won't easily run into coil binding with the 980s but running excessive seat pressure will trash your cam and running too little seat pressure will leave you with the same problem stock springs have. Factory height was +/- 1.727. With Comp 980s on a used factory cam I would target 1.700 which would get you 92# on the seat. If you are doing the springs yourself you should have some shims and a valve spring height checker on hand.
 
Stick your fingers in all 6 ports at he gasket flange. You'll notice a stupid lip on the front edge of every port that makes no sense.

Get a sharpie (or some actual layout dye) and paint around all 6 ports. Set a gasket on the engine, start all 10 bolts and shove the intake back as far as it will go. (then snug down a couple bolts so it will stay put.

Next take a stiff piece of sharp wire and bend a 170* curve on the end of it. Stick that down the intake port and scribe a line transferring your port diminutions to the intake flange.

*If you have stock heads there might not be much porting to do. When I do this it's with ported heads.*


Pop the intake off and grind whatever material is inside the lines you scribed. Don't forge to be drinking beer while doing this.


There also won't be any need for line up dowels if you start the bolts during assembly and shove the intake back again.
 
Spring height is set to avoid coil bind and get the desired seat pressure. A stock cam won't easily run into coil binding with the 980s but running excessive seat pressure will trash your cam and running too little seat pressure will leave you with the same problem stock springs have. Factory height was +/- 1.727. With Comp 980s on a used factory cam I would target 1.700 which would get you 92# on the seat. If you are doing the springs yourself you should have some shims and a valve spring height checker on hand.
So with a stock cam i don't want any more than 92 lbs at spring seat to avoid damage to cam? Im glad you guys are here cause i was gonna try to get 100 lbs at the spring seat. Is it a good idea to use the stock locks and retainers ?

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So with a stock cam i don't want any more than 92 lbs at spring seat to avoid damage to cam? Im glad you guys are here cause i was gonna try to get 100 lbs at the spring seat. Is it a good idea to use the stock locks and retainers ?

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That is an area that gets contested from time to time and if you do a search you can read more about it. Since your cam is already broken-in 92-100 lbs shouldn't be an issue. If you want to target 100 I wouldn't be worried but actually getting 100 across the board means you will be looking at an installed height of 1.675. As far as the stock locks and retainers I have reused them before for this swap. If you are intending to use this setup for a long time a new set of locks and retainers should help you sleep easier at night.
 
I ran 981s on my stock cam for years they installed at around 100lbs if I recall. When I pulled the cam to install a roller both the cam and the lifters looked fine.
Most manufactures like you to break a cam in with less spring pressure before upping the spring rate. I saved the cam and lifters and would not hesitate to use it again.
 
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