Funny, I just pulled my motor on October 30th and these were the only bolts that I bagged and tagged. The rest remained in the block or on the part that came off the block.A/C bolt were a PITA for me. It took lots of BEER.
I'm pulling my motor. Any words of wisdom before I dive in?
- Thread starter nolanator
- Start date
Anything particular stand out for you as an "aha!" moment or trouble area?
This may all ready be added somewhere in the procedure and it is not a must, but I would remove the starter if I were you. First time I did and just recently I didn't and the aftermarket starter go caught on the frame motor mount. Even though I lowered the engine and got cleareance, when I pulled the started the cast aluminum housing was cracked and the started is now useless. I think the stock starters are a little more stout, but I would err on the side of safety.
I'm sure you have read this many times, but just to reiterate make sure you have a transmission jack or some method of support. First time I removed my motor, it slipped my mind and shift cabled snapped. Even though I was able to find an aftermarket one, it took several tries to get one that matched up in size.
I'm sure you have read this many times, but just to reiterate make sure you have a transmission jack or some method of support. First time I removed my motor, it slipped my mind and shift cabled snapped. Even though I was able to find an aftermarket one, it took several tries to get one that matched up in size.
See below. Also if you have someone to help you that's always a plus. The only aha moment this time around was that I left the starter on and I should have removed it. I also pulled my trans dipstick tube out, not sure how that happened but it did and I got trans fluid everywhere.
IMO the more you remove the from the engine the easier it will be. Make sure your trans is supported, that caused the biggest issue because of my cable breaking. If you want to be safe you can remove the linkage from the transmission.
Everything I have read in this thread is good advice. One other thing I forgot to mention, I did take pictures when I did the first removal. Unfortunately I didn't back them up and when my hard drive crashed and I had to re-image it, I lost all my data.
One thing you do have experience pulling other motors, I had no experience and up until I bought my Grand National in 2008(age 35) I never done more than routine maintenance on a vehicle.
I really appreciate the input. thanks.
toofastforyou
2FAST4U
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
ok I have to ask,why pull a built motor that is not hurt and that you are not running on the track?i have seen 9 sec stock crank motors live for years with a good tune.
I'm building the bottom end now because I would rather do this on my terms and not when a catastrophic failure dictates. I understand that others have run 9s on their stock internals, but these instances have always been the exception and never the norm. Doing the build at this time allows me to learn my car at a leisurely pace, build to my own personal standards and then pass on good useable parts to other members.
I understand that no build is bulletproof, but I didn't build this block and everything I know about it is just what someone told me. I want to know the clearances. I want to sonic check the block. I want to put the work in and enjoy the fruits of my labor. Of course it's weird to fix something that isn't broken, but I'm looking toward the end game here.
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that's usually not because of the build,believe it or not 9s on a full weight regal and a v6 is not easy regardless of what the build is and what is written on the internet,stage motors or 109s with forged cranks or stock it can and will all break eventually.i guess my point is 9s will never be the norm regardless of the build.
I understand what you are getting at. I'd be happy with 10.20s at the point, but I'm not building to reach a specific goal. Rather, I'm doing it to put the proper pieces where they need to be. For instance. A bungee cord can probably be used in place of a cargo strap, but at some point it's just not going to hold.
getdowngranny
Mr. Fix It
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2006
I'm my opinion. I would leave the motor in the car and learn to use what you have before you decide to build a motor. If you have a hard time figuring out the ins and outs of tuning and getting to get these things to run right wait till you start building a motor. It only becomes more meticulous. Learn what you have, learn how to use it, learn its limits, then you can decide if what you already have isn't enough. Your motor has the potential right now to meet your 10.20 goal. You just need to figure it out. That's just my opinion though. Good luck on your build.
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TURBOTIMMER
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2002
I'm with getdowngranny on this one. Based on your sig, you have a pretty stout set up as is. Best advice I could give is tune, tune, tune. I went 10.30s all day long with the exact setup you have, billet caps, and stock crank and rods. I totally understand wanting to make a stronger platform to build on, but why not play with what you have, especially if it's healthy. You can find a 109 block and always build another while yours is still running.
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I stopped by Kenny Duttweiler's shop yesterday after work and talked over my build with him, and he said there is no room in my build for the factory crank. We discussed cam specs and timing and I have pretty decent idea as to what needs to get done. He will be machining my block so I'm sure we will talk more about what my plans are, but the factory crank, he said, is a time bomb.
I've considered the idea of buying a spare block and building it, but I don't mind having my car down for a while. I've only put maybe 300 miles on it in the last 7 months. It hardly comes out of the garage, so this is just a fun project for me that involves the car.
and the block isn't
and the block isn't
Lol there's always one.
My block is filled, has billet mains and caps and will be girdled. You'd be surprised how fast some of these guys have gone with this block.
