Im new to GN's and need some info on the motors

[qnitro]

Hey Guys..

Im all over Pro-touring.com.. I have built MANY LSX motors.. and done 4 pro-touring LSX/T56 cars.. I know them pretty well...

Well my question is.. what can a stock motor handle.. I know thats a generic question, but let me add this. I plan on doing Champion Aluminum heads, do a good cam, big intercooler, Big turbo and all the supporting mods.. Would a stock motor do 500 rwhp with spray on 91 octane?? Im new and put my bio plans for the GN I just bought.. but 500 rwhp is the goal(for now)

Here is long term goal.. Im WAYYYYYY into 1/2 and 1 mile airport runs.. I have a 2006 Viper Coupe and New GT500 and 2006 Z06 all are modified 600-700 rwhp cars.. I would LOVE to build a GN for this.. I would thought on this as well...

 

[earlbrown]

You don't need spray, a big cam, a big intercooler, and alum heads to make 500hp. Stock unopened engines have put many a full weight GN into the 10s.


If you want to do 1 mile WOT runs, I'd recommend a shit load of coolers and a GOOD tune.

 

[Raeban]

Hmm... I wish I had room in my garage for a ping pong table. ;( Earl is absolutely right though, a few searches of build recipes on this forum or the internet will get you what your initial goals are pretty easy.

 

[MCH86GN]

Make sure your valve train is beefed up if you plan on running the vehicle at high RPM. I was doing an airport run and I broke my rocker shaft. However, I was a 5800 RPM on stock valve train.

 

[bison]

I would not rec using a stock bottom end for a half mile run over 450hp. It's easy to make a lot more power but the load on the bottom end will take it's toll. Also the OD drop on these cars is 32%. It's worth considering putting in a manual trans with more favorable ratios after 1:1. I would immediately start with an aftermarket block if I was planning on half mile or mile runs and looking to keep up with anything "newer". Having the crank exit at 150+ would not be a good thing. To safely build an engine for 1/2 mile or more plan on at least$20k just in the engine/related. Below 450hp I wouldn't be afraid of much if I knew the bottom end wasn't hammered to begin with.


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[qnitro]

Well there goes those plans.. I cant dump that kind of coin in to it for that.. and I dont want to drop a LSX motor in.. Well she is my autocross car than.. I have a Z06 for the 1/2 mile runs... just thought it would be cool to see a GN on the airport runs

I would not rec using a stock bottom end for a half mile run over 450hp. It's easy to make a lot more power but the load on the bottom end will take it's toll. Also the OD drop on these cars is 32%. It's worth considering putting in a manual trans with more favorable ratios after 1:1. I would immediately start with an aftermarket block if I was planning on half mile or mile runs and looking to keep up with anything "newer". Having the crank exit at 150+ would not be a good thing. To safely build an engine for 1/2 mile or more plan on at least$20k just in the engine/related. Below 450hp I wouldn't be afraid of much if I knew the bottom end wasn't hammered to begin with.


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[qnitro]

LOL.. were were having a party... you cant see the beer pong table.. its on the side of the viper in the garage.. I have decided based on responses to this thread, 1/2 miles runs are out.. I am going to do a 500 rwhp motor though...On these cars, where is the problem oil leak areas?? Thats one reason I love the newer motors, all of them are O ringed...

Hmm... I wish I had room in my garage for a ping pong table. ;( Earl is absolutely right though, a few searches of build recipes on this forum or the internet will get you what your initial goals are pretty easy.

 

[earlbrown]

It would be cool.... But you can't halfass it. With that kind of sustained load, all our ducks have to be crossed and your 'T's dotted.

 

[earlbrown]

On these cars, where is the problem oil leak areas??

All of them.



Personally I like The Right Stuff instead of running a pan gasket, cork valve cover gaskets, install the rear main crooked with jizz on the ends (and Right Stuff on the verticals), FelPro timing cover gasket glued to the TC, soak the oil flter adapter gasket in oil and NO SEALANT on that one. With a neoprene front seal it'll be dry.

 

[qnitro]

Holy smokes... Thanks for the info..

All of them.



Personally I like The Right Stuff instead of running a pan gasket, cork valve cover gaskets, install the rear main crooked with jizz on the ends (and Right Stuff on the verticals), FelPro timing cover gasket glued to the TC, soak the oil flter adapter gasket in oil and NO SEALANT on that one. With a neoprene front seal it'll be dry.

 

[Raeban]

X2 on soaking the oil filter adapter gasket instead of using sealant. I also use right stuff on the rear main seal side seals using a washer on the tip to make sure it gets all the way in and then take a piece of mechanics wire with some water on it, shove it into the silicone in the groove, and then discard the wire. May sound strange at first but silicone actually needs a little moisture to firm up.

 

[bison]

X2 on soaking the oil filter adapter gasket instead of using sealant. I also use right stuff on the rear main seal side seals using a washer on the tip to make sure it gets all the way in and then take a piece of mechanics wire with some water on it, shove it into the silicone in the groove, and then discard the wire. May sound strange at first but silicone actually needs a little moisture to firm up.

It needs moisture or it will never cure. Pipe cleaners soaked in water are perfect. Just cut the excess off with some cutters


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[earlbrown]

^yep. Pipe cleaners make excellent re-bar

 

[SoGrand]

^yep. Pipe cleaners make excellent re-bar

Hi, will be doing a rear rope seal soon. Ok! So the old days of cutting the seal a hair long and crushing it are out. The ends on both the block and the cap get cut on an angle and a dab of silicon gets added with a touch of water speared into each end?

 

[earlbrown]

I don't even know if you can buy a rope seal anymore. I've never tried. Everybody, including me, that pulls the main cap to do a seal goes with a neoprene lip style seal.

 

[Raeban]

Yeah I wouldn't even consider a rope seal. When I do the neoprene seals I put a little silicone on the backside where the seal fits the groove. I never put any on the faces of the seal mating surface as I have had some silicone migrate to the lip face and fouled that surface before. I have had success staggering the seal a 1/4" or so past the cap parting lines as well. There are a lot of tricks and preferences when it comes to seal installs

 

[earlbrown]

Use Yamabond on the end pieces and smear a 1 molecule thick layer across the back of the main cap parting line. With the seal cocked a little that will ensure a leak free rear main.

 

[Raeban]

Yeah I forgot to mention I do the main cap parting line 1 molecule thick as earl said. Forgot to do this once and got a leak. No leaks since.

 

[SoGrand]

Yeah I forgot to mention I do the main cap parting line 1 molecule thick as earl said. Forgot to do this once and got a leak. No leaks since.

Thanks guys for the insite. maybe now I can take this 48 year old rope seal chinese finger and toss it! Un less one of you guys has room for a museum piece? lol.

 

[earlbrown]

I got a window sill full of 'em

Interesting side note.. when I rebuilt my Berkeley drive for my jet boat, it called for special packing glands.... rather than buy those expensive things, I shorted 5 for 6 front rope seals and stuffed them in there : )