Hydro boost install

[Mad_Trbo]

Just wanted to document my hydro - boost install pictures as well as a few pieces of information that some may find useful when doing there own.

10mm socket needed to bleed front brakes
5/16" deep socket with 1/4" drive
when bleeding the rear you obviously can't use the socket to turn the bleeder with the hose connected. Hopefully the bleeder is clean enough to turn with the hose.

Front Bleeder is a 16mm 1.25 thread purchased from the help section. It does help to use PB blaster before loosening the bleeders if you haven't serviced them in sometime.

After reading throught he post, I kept seeing how quite a few people were having issues with brake pedal feel and return. All that is required is you take your time and follow the step.


1st maker sure your power steering pump is in good working order and the fluid is healthy.

Bench bleed your master cylinder - don't skip this step.

Bleed the each corner, with the bleeding of each corner my pedal feel became progressively firmer. Air in the system is compressible, fluid is not. If air is in the system the pedal will feel jacked up, bottom line.

Don't be lazy, the system works quite nice.

I switched from vacum to this due to my cam and the change in vacum I was seeing. Otherwise quite honestly a vacuum system is probably adequate for most.


I've included a couple shots of my install. I'm using an aftermarket steering pump so I was able to run braided stainless lines.

 

[Taylor04]

Very nice lines and engine bay!

What kind of steering pump is that?

What kind of hydroboost is that?

 

[1quick6]

I'm in the middle of this myself. I'd add that speed bleeders will help a lot. I ordered mine from Summit Racing based on a tip here. I believe the fronts are 10mm and the rears are 8mm.

You need extensions and a universal joint to get the 15mm nuts holding the PM to the firewall!

Definitely bleed the MC. It took me 30 minutes or so before I was satisfied. If you are bench bleeding on the car, jack the back of the car up so the MC is level.

Don't forget to clamp the proportioning valve when bleeding the wheels.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Nice write up.

The may be sticky material here. Keep up the good info.

 

[turbonut85]

Nice braided lines....supplier??? I have been having recent issues with the reman masters lately on my 87 conversion....2 bad ones in a row. Not sure I'm ready to spend $90+ on a "new" master from the same company as the reman ones though.....


1quick6-----what exactly do you mean by "clamping the proportioning valve" while bleeding?? What would be the purpose for this?? ---Keith

 

[1quick6]

1quick6-----what exactly do you mean by "clamping the proportioning valve" while bleeding?? What would be the purpose for this?? ---Keith

I have read it in multiple places. gnttype.org says to do this when bleeding as well as both my Chilton and shop manual. As I understand it, if the pin on the front is popped out, the rears won't bleed correctly, so clamping it prevents it from popping out. I didn't have a C clamp large enough, so I am going to use one of those long pistol grip clamps woodworkers use to clamp glued wood together. It may or may not be absolutely necessary, but I figured it was fairly important given the multiple mentions. My speed bleeders should be in tomorrow, so I am getting closer to being done. You have me worried about the master, though. They aren't exactly an off the shelf item around here, so if my first one is bad, I will go new. I wonder what kind of master they used in the hydroboost conversion that is on GM Cars | Chevrolet, Pontiac, Buick, Saturn, Cadillac, GMC - GM High Tech Performance Magazine right now? Looks like an Astro MC.

I tried bench bleeding my MC off the car per the instructions in the box. I wasn't really happy with the process, so I jacked the car up and put it in the car and bled it with the port adapters and tubes like you did. I was amazed at how much air was still in there. It took me another half hour of slow pumps to get bubble free flow.

Just for reference, here is the sequence from my manual.
1. Fill the master cylinder reservoir.
2. The spring loaded plunger on the front of the proportioning valve MUST be depressed while bleeding. Wire or tape can be wrapped around the valve to hold the plunger in.
3. Attach a bleeder hose to a clear container of brake fluid.
4. Have the assistant press the pedal to the floor and pause until fluid flow stops and the bleeder nipple is closed.
5. Allow the pedal to return and repeat until a steady bubble free flow is seen.
6. Tighten the nipple and move to the next wheel.
7. Frequently check the master cylinder level during this procedure or you will be FUBAR, (ok, I made that up)

 

[1quick6]

I will add:

For people wanting a brass Tee for the return line, I could not find them at any hardware store, Home Depot or Lowes. I found them in the HELP! section at Advance Auto.

 

[ROYAL_6]

Just wanted to document my hydro - boost install pictures as well as a few pieces of information that some may find useful when doing there own.

10mm socket needed to bleed front brakes
5/16" deep socket with 1/4" drive
when bleeding the rear you obviously can't use the socket to turn the bleeder with the hose connected. Hopefully the bleeder is clean enough to turn with the hose.

Front Bleeder is a 16mm 1.25 thread purchased from the help section. It does help to use PB blaster before loosening the bleeders if you haven't serviced them in sometime.

After reading throught he post, I kept seeing how quite a few people were having issues with brake pedal feel and return. All that is required is you take your time and follow the step.


1st maker sure your power steering pump is in good working order and the fluid is healthy.

Bench bleed your master cylinder - don't skip this step.

Bleed the each corner, with the bleeding of each corner my pedal feel became progressively firmer. Air in the system is compressible, fluid is not. If air is in the system the pedal will feel jacked up, bottom line.

Don't be lazy, the system works quite nice.

I switched from vacum to this due to my cam and the change in vacum I was seeing. Otherwise quite honestly a vacuum system is probably adequate for most.


I've included a couple shots of my install. I'm using an aftermarket steering pump so I was able to run braided stainless lines.

Do you have any pics on how you "T" it off... looks good by the way.

 

[1quick6]

The line goes right up to the power steering reservoir.

 

[ROYAL_6]

The line goes right up to the power steering reservoir.

(pic dint come out) thanks though. =)

Question: Does anyone have part numbers, or what vehicle this convertion came out of? Just wondering so i can run off to NAPA or Pep-Boys or some where similar to purchase the parts. thanks in advance.

 

[1quick6]

Try this one hosted elsewhere. Credit to gmhightechperformance. The disconnected 3/8" line on the right goes to the return port on the hydroboost.

Check out Keith's great Hydroboost conversion thread. This one uses stock booster, MC and power steering lines for 83/84 Turbo Regals. Part numbers inside. Shop around because prices vary wildly and I can guarantee NAPA will be the highest. I got all of my stuff from Advance Auto for $250. I spent probably $50 more for fluids, speed bleeders, port adapters, a tee, wheel cylinders (mine were trash).

-Steve

 

[ROYAL_6]

Try this one hosted elsewhere. Credit to gmhightechperformance. The disconnected 3/8" line on the right goes to the return port on the hydroboost.

Check out Keith's great Hydroboost conversion thread. This one uses stock booster, MC and power steering lines for 83/84 Turbo Regals. Part numbers inside. Shop around because prices vary wildly and I can guarantee NAPA will be the highest. I got all of my stuff from Advance Auto for $250. I spent probably $50 more for fluids, speed bleeders, port adapters, a tee, wheel cylinders (mine were trash).

-Steve

thank you very much for all the help... :biggrin:

 

[charlief1]

Question: Does anyone have part numbers, or what vehicle this convertion came out of? Just wondering so i can run off to NAPA or Pep-Boys or some where similar to purchase the parts. thanks in advance.

83-85 turbo Regal used them but I don't know what others off the top of my head.

 

[Mad_Trbo]

Pump and Lines

Very nice lines and engine bay!

What kind of steering pump is that?

What kind of hydroboost is that?

Thanks for the compliments.

The pump is a CV Products Circle Track pump. Due to my dry sump configuration I had to relocate the pump over to the passenger side and this was the easiest way to do it.

Much success if this is on your project list, I think you'll find if you think it through and take the advice given on this board with a grain of salt you'll be just fine. Sometimes common sense needs to prevail over written word.

 

[Taylor04]

Thanks for the compliments.

The pump is a CV Products Circle Track pump. Due to my dry sump configuration I had to relocate the pump over to the passenger side and this was the easiest way to do it.

Much success if this is on your project list, I think you'll find if you think it through and take the advice given on this board with a grain of salt you'll be just fine. Sometimes common sense needs to prevail over written word.

Wow dry sump! Badass!

I really like the circle track parts for our cars...I find great stuff from speedway motors.