Hybrid engine alignment

[sd-slider]

Did a mock-up of the 3.8 in the 64 Lark today and it looks like I'll have to slide the perches around a little to get a good seat for the transplant.

Are there any tricks or guidelines to setting the engine mounts up as far as side to side alignment goes?

If I have to drill new holes, I'll most likely scavenge the perches off of the GN and use them...o No:

Any guidance or advice would be appreciated.

 

[sd-slider]

In regards to pinion angle, since I don't have the body on the frame right now, do most builders try to level the engine front to back and make final adjustments once everything is back together? I have the left to right alignment in check.

I have a set of custom perches that can still be machined(lowered) if necessary prior to welding them in. I had to use the custom perches to move the motor back ~3/4" for oil pan clearance

Any tips or tricks to "staging" the swap on just a frame and getting it close as possible to minimize fabrication once everything is together?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Engine angle can be approx 3-4* down.. [Use that as a starting point.]
The trans x member can be an "adjustment point", to help with getting the driveshaft and rear axle pinion properly aligned.
Being that there's no body, the chassis can't be loaded to replicate ride hgt. You can make some brkts and set the axle in the frame to the desired ride hgt, and work the angles from there.
For the street, I'd keep the pinion, d/s, engine angle differences to less than 2*...

I use the digital protractor sold at MSC. That way I always have a "zero point", so the frame does not have to be level to get the angles we want.
If you don't use such a tool, I'd set the frame level ft/back, and side to side, before any measurements are made.

AN example: My 55 Chevy had a vibe in it. I checked the angles...Found a mismatch at the rear yoke/d/s of <3*..Too much for a street car.
Engine= 3.1* down. [Measured across the face of the harmonic balancer].
D/S 3.4* down.
Pinion <1* up.
Shimmed the axle to move the pinion up 2*.
Engine stayed at 3.1*, d/s moved to 3.2*, and the pinion moved to 2.6* up. No more vibration...Just enuf differences in the joints to keep them moving...

here's a link that may help...
http://www.hotrodheaven.com/tech/chassis/rideheight.htm

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

the way i did in my car
i had a 200-4R in the car with the OE engine

i leveled the frame then attached the engine to trans with the mounts on it then i leveled the engine (side to side) and marked the holes on to the cross member pulled the engine back out and drilled the 3 holes, i think (don't remember why only 3)
i didn't measure the pinion angle, it looked good actually just it was with the OE engine.
Been running it like this for 2 plus years with at least 15 slow (17.s to low 12.s) 1/4 passes and about 5K miles.

good luck and post up what you find/do.

 

[sd-slider]

Engine angle can be approx 3-4* down.. [Use that as a starting point.]
The trans x member can be an "adjustment point", to help with getting the driveshaft and rear axle pinion properly aligned.
Being that there's no body, the chassis can't be loaded to replicate ride hgt. You can make some brkts and set the axle in the frame to the desired ride hgt, and work the angles from there.
For the street, I'd keep the pinion, d/s, engine angle differences to less than 2*...

I use the digital protractor sold at MSC. That way I always have a "zero point", so the frame does not have to be level to get the angles we want.
If you don't use such a tool, I'd set the frame level ft/back, and side to side, before any measurements are made.

AN example: My 55 Chevy had a vibe in it. I checked the angles...Found a mismatch at the rear yoke/d/s of <3*..Too much for a street car.
Engine= 3.1* down. [Measured across the face of the harmonic balancer].
D/S 3.4* down.
Pinion <1* up.
Shimmed the axle to move the pinion up 2*.
Engine stayed at 3.1*, d/s moved to 3.2*, and the pinion moved to 2.6* up. No more vibration...Just enuf differences in the joints to keep them moving...

here's a link that may help...
Setting Ride Height© and Engine and Pinion Angle© by Dean Oshiro

Thanks! :smile:

That is the info that will bring it all together.

I was looking for a reference point on the motor and the harmonic balancer sounds like the missing link in setting all this up.

As of last night, I pulled the springs/shocks so I could lower the rear to ride height(level front to back I assumed...). I'm gonna run to Sears and get a protractor.

the way i did in my car
i had a 200-4R in the car with the OE engine

i leveled the frame then attached the engine to trans with the mounts on it then i leveled the engine (side to side) and marked the holes on to the cross member pulled the engine back out and drilled the 3 holes, i think (don't remember why only 3)
i didn't measure the pinion angle, it looked good actually just it was with the OE engine.
Been running it like this for 2 plus years with at least 15 slow (17.s to low 12.s) 1/4 passes and about 5K miles.

good luck and post up what you find/do.

Thanks!

I have 3/16" plates drilled and mounted to the existing holes with 2 1/2" 1/4 wall square tubing that I machined down and put the oval holes for the mount screw. I can push and/or slide the engine front to back or side to side at this point. Once I have it dialed in, I'll tack the perches to the plates and pull them for final welding.

Thanks again to both of you for the guidance and ideas.

 

[sd-slider]

The new perches welded up and installed. Just need to be trimmed and "prettied" up. Forgive my rookie welding skills...I had all of 15 minutes of practice before deciding to just do it...:redface:

I also drilled new holes for the tranny x-member and slid it back.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

looking bro