How to repair turbo exhaust housing bolt threads??

[buickGN3:16]

My bolts have stripped out in the exhaust housing from the downpipe flange, i would like to clean them up & insert permanent studs & tighten the flange with nuts. Anyone have this set- up & willing to help with some info? Thanks in advance ya'll

 

[bison]

Just drill them out and tap for thread insert and install insert. I've done thousands of thread insets over the years. You can do it without removing the housing most of the time. Use the drill press to drill the hole for the tap then switch to the tap and start it by hand into the housing and release the tap from the chuck and finish tapping with a tap handle. If you're used to power tapping you can do that but the part needs to be held properly

 

[buickGN3:16]

i've never done this before period lol.

 

[buickGN3:16]

Ok so i pulled the turbo off, found my threads were ok, i think my previous bolts were a little short, only went in the thread hole like a 1/4" & my thread depth is 11/16" so i go get mid grade case hard bolts from my local fab shop & seal it back up & wouldnt u know on the last bolt, "under the bottom of course" the bitch broke off up near the shank at the head so i have to pull it back off to try to ease out & repair!!! i feel like throwing the turbo down through the woods & not looking back!!!!!

 

[bison]

There's no easy out that will remove a seized bolt. Have a machinist remove the broken bolt. Attempting to drill it out will result in damage to the housing almost every time. You could send me the housing and i could remove it if needed

 

[wb's87]

I had 2 of 4 bolts break off while removing my DP. I took it to several machine shops. They either didn't want to bother with it. Or the price was $150. Their estimate in time was maybe within a week. I decided to give it a shot myself. You have to be very careful and try to find the exact center of the broken bolt. Lightly center punch it and use the smallest drillbit you have and slowly drill the bolt center out. If you're not exactly in the center you can adjust after you first begin drilling until it looks perfect. The center is the key. If you're not dead on you're screwed. If you break the bit off in the bolt hole you're screwed. Keep increasing by small amounts the size of your drill bit until there is almost nothing left of the bolt. At that point you should be able to use a easy out or pick it out. To me this was a last resort as my Bolts had broken off flush with the housing. If you have part of the bolt protruding from the hole I would take it to your favorite muffler shop. They are used to dealing broken off bolts. They do it all the time. They may be able to weld a not onto the bolt and then just back it out. Good luck.

 

[buickGN3:16]

Thanks i ended up putting a little heat on it & backing it out with vise grips. i had enuf hanging out to grab hold of it & turn it.. i ended up cutting new threads & are using stainless steel studs in place.

 

[wb's87]

I don't know what DP your using. Mine would never go together using studs. There is not any room to slide it off and on. Don't forget the never seize.

 

[buickGN3:16]

id be taking that chance i guess! Its a GN1 3" w/ external gate.. 3/4" thick flange. i would only need like 1/2" or 3/4" stud sticking out, i think i have that much room atleast!

 

[coach]

I use studs...or set screws on mine. 12 point nuts and lockwashers. Be sure to put some "hi temp" never seize on the studs.

 

[buickGN3:16]

Exactly what i want coach where do i find those in my thread side & legnth i need?

 

[coach]

Well you should be able to find the set screws and lockwashers at Fastenal. The 12 point nuts I got from Summit Racing. The length depends on your down pipe flange thickness, but you'll get 3 of the same length, and one 1/4" shorter for the bottom one that's a pain in the ass to get to.

 

[buickGN3:16]

Ok so u got set screws & not studs correct? in stainless?

 

[coach]

Ok so u got set screws & not studs correct? in stainless?

Same difference....
Find out your thread size and the thickness of your downpipe flange, and I'll send you some.
I had my screws nickel plated...that's why they look stainless.

 

[buickGN3:16]

i ended up with a piece of stainless rod to cut my legnths from so i guess im gonna go that route but deff thanks for the offer & i found the arp 12 point nuts also.. Thanks for the pic & your info, i appreciate it coach!

 

[coach]

Important... Do not bottom out the stud. Turn it in and then back it out a half turn or so. It needs to be able to align itself. It can't be tight

 

[buickGN3:16]

Will do thanks again! is porting the gate hole on the turbo exhaust housing worth doing since i have it off the car? i think its a hair smaller than the gate puck hole in the dp, mayb 1/8".. its a 46mm external gate from GN1 perf by the way

 

[coach]

Not my expertise...contact Bison

 

[turbo89]

i ended up with a piece of stainless rod to cut my legnths from so i guess im gonna go that route but deff thanks for the offer & i found the arp 12 point nuts also.. Thanks for the pic & your info, i appreciate it coach!

I wouldn't use stainless on those ... stainless doesn't work too well with that temp fluctuation use a regular grade 5 stud or bolt

 

[buickGN3:16]

The machine shop & engine shop in my town are telling me stainless is better for heat? i had a 5grade break off in the housing thats why i have this issue going on.. So when evryones telling u something diffrent what do u do lol