How to install new bushings

GNAT87

Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2007
I picked up some Moog bushings for the upper a arms. Played with it a little this morning, took the nut off and thats as far as I got. I know they are pressed in so how do I get them out? I couldnt even budge the things:mad: Are there any tricks or tools that make the job easier?
 
They are a bitch, H&R parts makes a remover and installer for them. I used a torch, air hammer, socket with extensions and hammers. It was a Major PITA. I would get the tool from parts-n-stuff to make it easier. One tip is to put the new bushing into the freezer to shrink them a little.
 
There is a press that look like a giant c-clamp that works pretty well.
 
Are you not able to get the bolt out? That is a problem many people have, including myself, when removing old worn original bushings. I actually had to take a grinder and cut them out and get new bolts. Once you get the control arms out, simply cut the bushing out with a grinder close to each edge the control arm. Make notches in the outer metal sleeve and take a hammer and chisel and knock the pieces out. It's a chore. You can aso take the arms to the tire shop and have them do it pretty cheap. And air chisel works very well and you should be able to knock the edges of the bushing off the control arm. They can also press the new bushings in. I think I had mine done for a 12 pack of Busch Lite, a can of salsa, and a bag of Doritos!!!
 
I took mine off and took them to midas. Not sure if they did it correct on the arms for the GN, looks like they may be crushed a little bit. Took the ones off the elky to the same midas and those look to have been done correctly. I think they charged around $40.
 
The bolts on mine were rusted in. I cut the head off the bolt and took a hammer and long punch and drove the bolt out. To get the bushings out, I used an air hammer and had them both out in less than 10 minutes. :eek: The tip about putting the new bushings in the freezer is a good one....worked for me.
 
Havent really tried to take the bolt out yet...so my best bet is to pull the whole control arms off and do it that way? That might be the only way I had no clue. Sounds like a bi*ch! Well for motivation sake will it make the car drive any better? Enough to feel a difference? If there's good response to the last question it might help me get out there and do it...ive just been chasing the downpipe hitting the a arm problem...thats annoying
 
Havent really tried to take the bolt out yet...so my best bet is to pull the whole control arms off and do it that way? That might be the only way I had no clue. Sounds like a bi*ch! Well for motivation sake will it make the car drive any better? Enough to feel a difference? If there's good response to the last question it might help me get out there and do it...ive just been chasing the downpipe hitting the a arm problem...thats annoying

It might solve the DP problem, But to really feel the differance you should put polys in the entire front end IMO. And yes they need to come off the car. Make sure you keep track on the alignment shims that come out too.
 
It might solve the DP problem, But to really feel the differance you should put polys in the entire front end IMO. And yes they need to come off the car. Make sure you keep track on the alignment shims that come out too.

I completely disagree on the poly bushings in the entire front end. That is a sales pitch. The best way to stiffen up the suspension is by using Del-Alum bushings. These wont squeek and deterorate like the poly bushings.

GNAT, those bushings will make a big difference in your ride quality of he front end. Another thing to think about is changing out your motor mounts to a good set of HR mounts. Very easy to do and well worth the money. This will also help with the DP. Another problem people dont think about when they read the magazines hat try o sell poly bushings is that we have down pipes that burn the bushings in the pass side upper control arm. Poly deterorates quickly over there. The bushings you bought will also help disperse the heat. I talked with a rep at MOOG about this issue and with the high durameter rubber bushings they are using, the compounds dont break down nearly as quick as the old compounds. This new rubber compound is why they call them "Problem Solvers". You are on the right track track, just get out there and get those puppies off! It's not a fun project and you are going to get frustrated but it is WELL worth the improvement. Also, be sure to grease the inside of the metal sleeve and also rub grease on the bolts before re-installing them.

Thats another thing to point out to all the "POLY" bushing users. MAKE SURE YOU USE "POLY" grease and not regular grease. Regular grease will break the poly down. You must use poly grease!
 
Thanks jdpolzin and dailydrifter for the help im going to do it this week. I do have the HR mounts. I appreciate it opnce again. Im sure yall will here from me when that project begins with new questions.
 
Thats another thing to point out to all the "POLY" bushing users. MAKE SURE YOU USE "POLY" grease and not regular grease. Regular grease will break the poly down. You must use poly grease!

Good advice. I still like them, I'm 23 and dont care too much about squeeks and rattles. Also I like the car to handle, which it does for the most part.
 
Guess each car is different. I have all poly suspension bushings in the GN, and the elcamino seems like it handles better, I have all stock replacement suspension bushings in it:confused: , each has the 36mm hollow sway bar and the trianglular frame brace at the front too.
 
We got them in today! It wasnt all that fun but they are in. I can feel a difference in the ride, its better but it didnt fix the downpipe rattlenproblem so ill continue with trying to fix that. Thanks again for all the help!
 
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