How to change a TTA fuel pump in 30 minutes or less

Scott89TTA

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2005
Just what the title says...

How to change a TTA fuel pump in 30 minutes or less :eek:

So as some now know and some may be wondering how did I manage to change my fuel pump at the track this past weekend? I did what some would consider the cardinal sin and cut the trunk...yes I installed an access panel. Now before you get all excited and start bashing me I am not a hack...I have done quite a bit of machine and sheet metal work at my job as an engineering designer at JHU/APL. I had to think about this a good bit but in the end I knew I could do a professional job and would not regret it in the end. Now I absolutely know I made the right decision when I was faced with possibly changing my fuel pump on the side of the road. Luckily I made it to the track and easily changed it there.

Here is how I did it...

After locating where to cut I marked off my pattern and drilled a couple holes then used a nematic nibbler to cut out the sheet metal. After it was cut and cleaned up I located my hole patter for mounting screws. I drilled holes and pressed in 10-32 S/S PEM nuts around the opening. I made a gasket out of silicone rubber sheet and then fabricated a .090 S/S sheet metal cover that is fastened down with 10-32 x 3/8" S/S pan head screws. I cut all fuel lines and then coupled them with rubber fuel line and S/S hose clamps. The high pressure line received a brass compression fitting.

It takes more time to pull the back panels apart and pull back the carpet then it does to pull the fuel pump :cool:

Here are some pic's of the job...notice the access panel is nicely located between the support groves and by using the .092 S/S sheet metal (the trunk sheet metal is .032) it does not reduce any of the rigidity of the trunk floor.
 

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I love it,I can see it now,all the TTA nut cases are cringing....Oh my gold box,oh my die cast,what number do you have.....oh and did you see what Scott did to his floor...:eek: :eek: ;) ,blahh blahh blahh
 
Very Nice!!! After recently pulling the tank for the first time I can understand why one would do this. And it should only be done in a quality manner such as this. No hack jobs!

But after pulling the tank for the 1st time I know for a fact that the second time would not be as bad at all.
 
Very nice Scott! the pump ever goes in mine I'm calling you over for that mod! I heard to many horror stories about getting that tank out and it won't line back up going in for nothing. Make a few copies of that template!
 
I have to hand it to you Scott. I am usually one of the 3rd gen guys jumping all over people for "cutting" holes in the hatch floors to access the fuel pump. However I applaude you in your planning and fabrication and you have shown all of us that it can be done right with some time, planning, and a little money. Good job!
 
Have you considered making a kit and marketing it through one of our vendor's? Would only be a handfull of customers, but certainly a good thing for our group. :)
 
Have you considered making a kit and marketing it through one of our vendor's? Would only be a handfull of customers, but certainly a good thing for our group. :)

Thanks to all for the compliments :cool:

I am considering a kit...that would include a template, gasket, cover and hardware. The problem is the PEM nuts require a special tool to install, they can be installed with a a pair if channel locks or a small vice but the tool is way better. Another option could be riv-nuts but once again they require a special rivet tool. One could just use S/S sheet metal screws but that would be my last choice...but may work just fine. Just need to be short and maybe even the the "B" type (no point on the end)...the only problem here may be that since the trunk sheet metal is only .032" thick it may distort some.

This is how GM should have done it...most imports have and access door...I changed the pump on my sons 92 Eagle Talon AWD turbo in about 20 minutes...that pretty much sold me on doing mine.

I knew I could definitely do better then these hack jobs for sure...:eek:
 

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Thanks to all for the compliments :cool:

I am considering a kit...that would include a template, gasket, cover and hardware. The problem is the PEM nuts require a special tool to install, they can be installed with a a pair if channel locks or a small vice but the tool is way better. Another option could be riv-nuts but once again they require a special rivet tool. One could just use S/S sheet metal screws but that would be my last choice...but may work just fine. Just need to be short and maybe even the the "B" type (no point on the end)...the only problem here may be that since the trunk sheet metal is only .032" thick it may distort some.

This is how GM should have done it...most imports have and access door...I changed the pump on my sons 92 Eagle Talon AWD turbo in about 20 minutes...that pretty much sold me on doing mine.

I knew I could definitely do better then these hack jobs for sure...:eek:

I could not believe it when i pulled the carpet up and found that mess.I was pissed. yours looks much better than the hole someone made for me :mad:
 
Thanks to all for the compliments :cool:

I am considering a kit...that would include a template, gasket, cover and hardware. The problem is the PEM nuts require a special tool to install, they can be installed with a a pair if channel locks or a small vice but the tool is way better. Another option could be riv-nuts but once again they require a special rivet tool. One could just use S/S sheet metal screws but that would be my last choice...but may work just fine. Just need to be short and maybe even the the "B" type (no point on the end)...the only problem here may be that since the trunk sheet metal is only .032" thick it may distort some.

This is how GM should have done it...most imports have and access door...I changed the pump on my sons 92 Eagle Talon AWD turbo in about 20 minutes...that pretty much sold me on doing mine.

I knew I could definitely do better then these hack jobs for sure...:eek:

I could not believe it when i pulled the carpet up and found that mess.I was pissed. yours looks much better than the hole someone made for me :mad: the worse part is they did not know where the sender was so there is holes hacked in both sides. the little hole to the left of the sender is just one the other is a little bigger:mad: I am going to pull tank and replace that area of the body with a donor panel an install a trap door like you did. My neighbor did his early one morning with a sawsall:eek:. By the time I woke up and went over to look at what he was bragging about. I never laughed so hard in my life.I wish I had a picture of it. He cut the whole panel out including where the straps bolt to the body:eek:. The tank was resting on the heatshield for the exhaust and he drove it like that for a year.
 
I just used a 1/2" stainless line into the bottom of the tank, and out to the new dual external pumps. No more fighting that STOOPID GM design! Prolly takes more than 30 minutes to change a pump, though.........that car is so dang low that it takes a 1/2 hour just to get a jack under it. I couldn't cut a hole inside the hatch, either though, as it is FULL of high dollar stereo equipment and it would take too much time to pull it all out.
 
Very Nice!!! After recently pulling the tank for the first time I can understand why one would do this. And it should only be done in a quality manner such as this. No hack jobs!

But after pulling the tank for the 1st time I know for a fact that the second time would not be as bad at all.

I've done three...it does get better, but still not something to look forward to.:biggrin:

yeah...but with the possibility of failing pumps I can change mine on the side of the road or at the track or wherever in less then 30 min provided I'm carrying a spare...something I will do for now on ;)
 
So...when's the kit going to market?

...

I need to figure out a way to make a cheap tool for installing the S/S PEM nuts since it is not likely most will have access to the proper tool unless they work in a sheet metal shop or have a friend that does. Another option would be to use S/S sheet metal screws but personaly I do not like that option since the floor pan is only .032 sheet metal and would probably distort and may be strip out to easily.
 
Scott,I just wanted to put this back on your radar.Any plans for a template at least?
 
Scott,I just wanted to put this back on your radar.Any plans for a template at least?

Currently the car is wrapped up under the cover in the driveway...I'm in the process of redoing my garage...so I can get the car in :frown: Once it is in the garage I'll see what I can come up with...plus I need to pull the fuel pump again when I get my Walbro replacement.

It's not forgotten ;)

Scott
 
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