How do you have your line lock installed?

["Turbo-T"]

I've decided now is the time to install my Biondo line lock. Most from what I've seen removal the front brake line off the master cylinder and install it to the line lock, and then install the line lock directly to the master cylinder.

However I believe I've read somewhere that installing the line lock such as I have described not only messes up the proportioning valve but it also is not NHRA legal.

Wanted to clarify if there's any truth to either? How do you have your line lock installed?

 

[Topjimmy]

Subscribed.

 

[forcefed3.8's]

You can install the line lock to the rear brakes. Push the button before you hit the brakes, then you can roll out of the burnout with full control of your front brakes.

 

[aminga]

Mine is between the master cylinder no it isn't NHRA legal and the only problem is it turns on the brake light when you activate it. But a couple of pumps staging and it's good again.

 

[salvageV6]

What he said. :smile:

Mines up top on both cars the "illegal" way, it's never been looked at at LVD and Englishtown.

Just bend the line a bit better than shown here.

I mounted my Hurst Roll Control on the plastic fenderwell bump and a third bolt on a raised aluminum block where there was no plastic bump on the other side of the mounting bracket.

It was easiest for me to reflare the line after installing the metric nut on the short metal line out of the line lock into the powermaster.

 

["Turbo-T"]

You can install the line lock to the rear brakes. Push the button before you hit the brakes, then you can roll out of the burnout with full control of your front brakes.

Thought about doing this too...although don't most line locks come with a built in check valve that would allow fluid to go to the brakes when the solenoid was activated and not let it out until it was deactivated?

 

[charlief1]

Just wondering what the rules for NHRA are on installing a line lock. Where exactly is it supposed to go?

 

["Turbo-T"]

NHRA from what I've been reading over the past hour, wants them after the proportioning valve.

 

[charlief1]

That would mean you'd need 2 of them then?

 

[aminga]

That would mean you'd need 2 of them then?

No you can use a T. At least that's what all of the instructions I see Suggest

 

[salvageV6]

Only one is needed no matter where you put it.

You just use the front lines down below where they come out of the prop. valve, block one output prop. valve port for the fronts, send the other to the line lock and then T the lines out of the line lock to each front brake.

You lock the brakes up, push the button, the fronts stay locked up so the rears spin freely in the burnout box, when you let off the line lock brake button after the burnout and letting off the gas, you pump it once to get the light off, then stop the car normally with 4 brakes before the staging light area.

It's easy enough to do. :smile:

 

[charlief1]

Thanks guys. That makes sense now. Wonder why they reqiure you to put it after the prop valve though.

 

["Turbo-T"]

That's what I'd like to know.

I'm going to install mine today after the prop valve.

I read the powermaster needs to be pumped down to do this - why?

Also any pointers on bleeding the system would be appreciated. I've done the typical 2 man bleed before. What about vacuum bleeding? Do I need someone working the pedal to do a vacuum bleed?

 

[TurboK]

You can install the line lock to the rear brakes. Push the button before you hit the brakes, then you can roll out of the burnout with full control of your front brakes.

This is the same way my Biondo line lock is installed. You have more control over the car if you lock out the rear brakes. It also work good for doing rolling burnouts at 40-50 mph on the street :biggrin:

 

[X Ray]

You lock the brakes up, push the button, the fronts stay locked up so the rears spin freely in the burnout box, when you let off the line lock brake button after the burnout and letting off the gas, you pump it once to get the light off, then stop the car normally with 4 brakes before the staging light area.

It's easy enough to do. :smile:

I installed mine the same way.....but I made new lines and saved the original...I also made a bracket so I did not need to make any additional holes in the vehicle...it slides on the side power steering pump.

 

[TurboDave]

Mine's also in the "illegal" spot, but in almost 15 years it's never been questioned.

 

["Turbo-T"]

Dave what adapter fittings did you have to use in the master cylinder to accommodate that line? Also looks like another adapter was used on the original brake line to install it on the line lock?

 

[jgme]

As forcefed3.8's suggested I have mine in the rear circuit also.

'87 Grand National, Line Lock, Adjustable Brake Proportionin Valve, & Battery in Trunk
It is mounted after the proportioning valve. I've had the setup since the early 90s. Works great.

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

Also any pointers on bleeding the system would be appreciated. I've done the typical 2 man bleed before. What about vacuum bleeding? Do I need someone working the pedal to do a vacuum bleed?

Vacuum bleeding is a one-man job. Pickle jar, solder or epoxy two brass or steel tubes into the lid, a few rubber bands around the jar for anti-slip, some small flexible hose from a hardware store, Mity-vac, and you have it.

Quick and easy. Remember to leave the master cylinder cap loose. Otherwise the vacuum can pull air into the M/C past the rear seal. Then you are back to bench bleeding it (no need to ask how I know this).

The only down side is that some folks don't like that air gets pulled in past the bleeder threads. This is seen as bubbles in the line to the vac jar. I have some ideas such as using grease or teflon paste/tape to alleviate this. But it doesn't bother me enough to prevent it.

If flushing old fluid out it is easy to tell once the new fluid reaches the jar. This is a definite plus to the vacuum bleeding method. Of course the other definite plus is not having to drag the SO out to the garage. The one I used to use always complained about the 'fuel smell.' Honey, that's not the smell of fuel, that's the aroma of raw horse-power.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[Underboost]