hey dusty

idaho gn

behind the learning curve
Joined
May 25, 2001
so im going with cp for pistons........i think. i know you run je so i have a question. the block is 4.100 now. i think we are gonna go 4.120 to clean it up just to make sure. 3.875 stroke. heads are 67 cc. i was thinking that small bore would keep the most strength in the block. do i really need to be concerned with this using the brodix block? its std deck height (wish i would have got the tall deck!!!) my engine guy says that we cant go with a longer stroke bigger bore and still keep the motor low compression.(under 9.5 to 1) is this because of the cp piston? i also have the raised cam block.......wtf did i get this for? i gotta buy a 1500 $ belt drive cause of this. does je make a piston that i could increase ci and make my combo work? im getting daready to order the rotating assy and am just trying to cover my bases one last time. my engine guy likes his vendors but i want the biggest ci/stroke and if i need to go outside the box i will i just dont want to build and then hear i could have done this or that.........looking for input.
 
Your kinda stuck. I don't even know why they would offer a raised cam standard deck block. You need the tall deck for big ci. Your problem is pistons. You can't run a large ci and get a forced induction piston in a standard deck. The pin is too far down on the pistons and gets into the ring package. You can run a shorter rod. Rod length is really not a big deal in fi apps. I would have no problem running a 5.85 rod with your longer stroke to keep the pin higher. You shouldn't have any problem running the larger bore if you want. I can't see it effecting ring seal. Yes the thicker bore helps strength and maintains the bore size better but I'm sure you'll be rebuilding every winter anyway.
 
yeah you hit therod lenght on the nose ........gonna be a 414 seems to be the most we've bee able to get out of it without getting a new block........anyone want a good deal on a new block? lol
 
yeah you hit therod lenght on the nose ........gonna be a 414 seems to be the most we've bee able to get out of it without getting a new block........anyone want a good deal on a new block? lol

Trade you for some stage 2 stuff!:eek:
 
sure ill trade you a complete motor for the block.........you know the one!!!!!!!
 
Idaho GN,
What brand-model cranks and rods are you going to use?
 
crank is a callies pro magnum

rods either manley pro series or oliver billet havent decided
 
you can do a 4" stroke crank and 6" rods but the pistons will be so short the oil rings will intersect the pins and need a bridge. The problem is the pistons would have to be flat tops and would be around 10.5 or 11.0 to 1. Ya the raised cam wont help you much but your definatly not going to run into interference on the rods to cam or crank to block.


I looked into a 434" before I bought my stage 2. One thing to remember is the cam can be larger than you might expect for the engine. I think a 236@.050 was middle of the road. Alos the heads was the neck down for major power but you have a great set going on.
 
crank is a callies pro magnum

rods either manley pro series or oliver billet havent decided

How much power you think that Magnum will take. I mean you are looking at 1500-1600 hp in your combo easy. Also do you mean a Magnum XL? I couldnt find a Pro magnum.

Im only asking because Im starting a similar project.

Thanks
 
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