Help-Going to do a budget rebuild the target is 11.99 at least once.

talk about being dis-crumpled
the machine shop said that the Crank is NFG it would have to go 20 on the rod end and that he would try 10 on the mains but it isn't likely. Most likely it would end up 20 and 20 crank. At this point i haven't done anything to it till i give it some brain time.
So do i buy a crank of use this one cut down 20/20?????

The pistons are good.
But with out a crank they don't do me much good at this point.
 
jasjamz said:
I had one in a 109 20/20. It didnt break. I find standard ones for like $300.
Click to expand...

i am just pissed that i held on to that ship for so long to eventually make use of it and when the time comes this is what i end up with. :mad:

What makes it so hard for me buying used parts is that i don't know shi t about identifying junk parts from good parts and it puts me at the mercy of the seller. Which id rather buy new instead of putting my self in such a predicament.
 
It's a Buget Build. You can contact engine builders on here to see if they have one that is 10/10 or standard, but thats spending more cash. Just make sure your clearances are right when building the motor, get it balanced, and tune it for no knock. Not too hard if your patient. the 20/20 crank had me nervous too. But after a while I was more worried about getting my next 5 gallon pail of meth too feed in with the 25 psi. I beat that he(( out of that motor.
210/210 hyd roller
crappy ported irons
a TT alky chip.
63mm turbo
55lb injectors and razors kit
scanmaster
.030 trw
th 400
3500 stall
11.40-11.50s@116-118 over and over and over lol!

Its the reason Brer Rabbit wont show his T Type around Chicago anymore...:tongue:
 
my Mazda/Melissa 9 sec motor with well over 20k+ on it and driven like ya stole it has a 20/20 crank .. nuff said. :cool:
 
This is what my shopping list looks like.
1-ARP-123-4003 head stud kit------$82.97
2-ARP-123-5401 Main stud kit------$55.73
3-Comp cam 212 Cam-------------$288.95
4-EDL-7829 Timing chain-----------$54.95
5-SLP-HT-2270 Lifters-------------$119.94
6-SLP-R-10499 Piston Rings-------$119.95
7-TRW-L2481F Pistons-------------$311.70
8-TA_1316-231-2 Rocker shaft----$139.95
------------------------------Total $1174.14


Still looking for
A-Spring and retainer set.
B-Push Rods- after engine assembly
C-Valve springs

Should i get new OE replacement Rockers?

On the heads i am trying to figure what i want to do to them.
Multi angle
Bigger Valves ?1.77 intake and 1.50 exhaust
Port work?
Gasket match?

I am desperately trying to keep this budget friendly
 
I have a set of K motion valve springs from my GN1 heads with about 160 miles on them, I went with double springs. Don't know what they are worth, just make me an offer they are just sitting here taking up space.

Bryan
 
Keep your eyes open for used ported irons over the next few months. Have like $900 ready by March. Do the minor things till you get those out of the way.
 
Grumpy said:
my Mazda/Melissa 9 sec motor with well over 20k+ on it and driven like ya stole it has a 20/20 crank .. nuff said. :cool:
Click to expand...

Exactly. You guys do all realize that the difference in .020 compared to .010 is like the thickness of a sheet of newspaper or 2, right?
 
well "budget" shouldn't be in the title of a rebuild thread.:p Budget to me is reringing and rebearing it . Clean an mag , a good valve job .. You are turning this budget build into a webber set up by the time your done. Plus are you qualified to do the building itself ?? Sorry for being so blunt BUT I see this way to often an guys around here want me to straighten out there mess. Ya I am GRUMPY. You hallucinate way to much.. Like the cam.. 206/206 206/210.. BUY ONE !!!! They are not that different an both have run great !!
 
You wont get Grumpy to just spill the beans. He tells us what he didn't find useful and simple ways to do things. You have to look at some of his post from a different perspective to understand them sometimes. I used to get pissed when the fast guys wouldnt tell you how to get there until I spent a bunch of time and money to reach my goals. Then I was just like some of them, only giving out bits of info to keep them from creating a hand grenade. I help but I don't push them to the danger line unless they have a clear understanding of how things could turn out. Most back off then and become content with where they are...LOL!
If I copied Grumpy combo down to the tire pressure, and he shows me the chip settings, translator settings, and alky settings. I go to the track and it only runs high tens in my car, can I blame him? Some would, then some would say he lying about what he really has, or just keep adding parts until it gets closer. I will tell you that using someone else's tune may not work and could lead to bad things. That could be the main reason some won't tell others what they are.

Searching previous post, Google questions and using information from proven combos will help you get there. The tuning tools help if you know the cause and effect of the changes you make. Just because you have all the tools for the job doesn't make you good at what you do. You may want to make it to a couple Buick events too. It still requires time, patience and yes....money!
 
Roller cam? Comp 941 springs for a three fiddy 16 pack is what I ran for years on my 210/210 billet roller cam. I had a heck of a time getting the last four springs to stay under the valve covers since I ran out of valves and they just bounced around a lot;) Reuse the rockers. If you get hardened shafts - test for hardness with a file. You'll have to measure to get the right pushrods since they are non-adjustable. Leave the heads alone, if you want to port, just do the bowls to unshroud the valves and do it yourself, otherwise you'll blow your budget to have a head shop port your heads and by the time you spent the money to have your heads done, you could have just bought out-of-the-box CNC champion irons. No need to gasket match unless you are trying to go really fast.

TURBOPOWERED68 said:
Still looking for
A-Spring and retainer set.
B-Push Rods- after engine assembly
C-Valve springs

Should i get new OE replacement Rockers?

On the heads i am trying to figure what i want to do to them.
Multi angle
Bigger Valves ?1.77 intake and 1.50 exhaust
Port work?
Gasket match?

I am desperately trying to keep this budget friendly
Click to expand...
 
Grumpy said:
well "budget" shouldn't be in the title of a rebuild thread.:p Budget to me is reringing and rebearing it . Clean an mag , a good valve job .. You are turning this budget build into a webber set up by the time your done. Plus are you qualified to do the building itself ?? Sorry for being so blunt BUT I see this way to often an guys around here want me to straighten out there mess. Ya I am GRUMPY. You hallucinate way to much.. Like the cam.. 206/206 206/210.. BUY ONE !!!! They are not that different an both have run great !!
Click to expand...

i actually appreciate your Grumpyness:biggrin:
BTW being Grumpy is one thing and Assuming is another:biggrin:
i think i said somewhere "My Builder" as implying NOT ME.
An experienced Turbo BUICK V6 GUY will be calling ALL of the assembly shots and doing ALL of the quality control during the actual assembly of the engine and handling all the machine work, i will be the "gofor" during the building process,
i am just putting a shopping list together and i am trying to get opinions.

I guess i am wrong in calling it a budget build, I guess the reason i keep insisting in calling it a budget build is because the things being left out are ONLY being left out because they don't fit into my budget like the Steel mains and the Champion heads i know i don't NEED them but if it wasn't because they don't fit into the budget i would have definitely gotten them.
 
ok one more post of Dan's words of wisdom... Some machine shops are not goin to like YOU or someone else telling them how to do their work. :eek: IF they DO listen to others on how to do this do you really think he will stand behind the work YOU told him to do ?? ok I am DONE :biggrin:
 
jasjamz i totally agree with you on your post.
BUT i am not ASKING for his or anyones "secrets" i offered to PAY for his services.
I understand that to some of you guys this is a job or a competition so i don't expect the big dogs to give out too much info as i do the same in my field of work.
To me this is just stress release or stressful entertainment NOTHING MORE. Competing NOT interested (i don't have the budget) id rather go to a track rental have some fun even if 8 of the 9 runs is me and an empty lane.

on the other hand ANYTHING i find out for my self i would share with anyone in full detail as i would not suffer a loss from it weather it be in competition or work.

Anyway i am not even thinking of tuning right now. i just want to get this thing running again its driving me crazy not having my car on the road:mad:

the more frustrating part for me is the in ability to make a single mistake in my purchases. Which is why it takes me for ever to buy something. i research and research some more until i am completely satisfied with my findings.
This is much easier for some of you guys as you know how a part works just by knowing the specs of it. I have to really on second hand info.
 
Grumpy has me frightened to do my own rebuild. So I can't do a rebuild in my garage? :(
 
Grumpy said:
ok one more post of Dan's words of wisdom... Some machine shops are not goin to like YOU or someone else telling them how to do their work. :eek: IF they DO listen to others on how to do this do you really think he will stand behind the work YOU told him to do ?? ok I am DONE :biggrin:
Click to expand...

Do i really come off as a such a prick? i guess my easy going laid back and charming self doesn't get translated onto my posts.
please check out post 95
 
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