Guage questions

[Super6]

I did a search on this and haven't came up with any good threads. I am wanting to use phanton autometer gauges for the oil and temp. I have the timing cover off right now putting a new timing chain,water pump, rear main seal, etc etc anyway, My questions are mechanical or electric? i want my dummy lights to still work and an accurate gauge so mechanical is probably going to be what most people have. I see they have braided stainless steel hoses for like the oil gauge. Is it worth getting? I don't want any oil getting in the interior. tell me what you have , how you like them and where you have them plumbed. I love those white faced gauges .................thanks Bob

 

[ALBERTAN]

Take one look at the sender for a mechanical gauge and try to figure out where to mount it. Then you'll have your answer....electric.

 

[salvageV6]

Mechanical and it ain't easy.

Oil pressure I used copper line off the turbo feed fitting since it's hot up there and it's spliced into plastic at the firewall.

Plastic into the car for many years is fine.

I have no problem with braided either it just makes the one easy gauge to install harder.

NPT fittings at the oil cooler adapter where the filter screws into makes a good place for a large T for the oil temp. sender for the autometer units.

Water temp. was a bit trickier for me and I used the temp. sender on the intake with lots of brass plumbing stuff to maintain the light and add the large mechanical sender.

Not in direct water flow either when you do that so it's a bit slower reacting than the scanmaster. Had to be bled to avoid an air pocket as well.

Others use the 1/8" NPT plug in the block as well but that would still require the sender to sit outside the water stream.

Oil is easy water temp. a bit harder with mechanical.

Just my .02.

 

[ALBERTAN]

Here is how I mounted the sender for my Autometer fuel pressure gauge. $10 worth of fittings...no splicing....the original sender is still present and all it's functions (idiot light/fuel pump) still work. One little 18 gauge wire into the interior.

Both will work. Electric is easier.

 

[salvageV6]

Actually I used less fittings for both mechanical installs of oil pressure and temperature than that one electrical install.

Not so for the water temp. however.

 

[Super6]

thanks guys

Now if i can make my mind up Guess i got some work to do and thanks again..............................................Bob

 

[87RegalT]

Do any of you guys use an electric fuel guage? Any problems? I have one and it definetly is not accurate. I've cleaned the connections.Any suggestions on how to check the sending unit with it out of the car?

 

[Matt Weiser]

Both my oil psi and water temp gauges are VDO electrical. Oil sender is plumbed into the turbo feed line with a T. Water sender replaces the idiot light sender on the pass. side of the intake and is right in the coolant stream. I've always used mechanical gauges on other cars but these seem quite accurate and quick responding. No complaints. Like you, I did all this when I replaced the timing chain. These two gauges are mounted in the center console. I have small tach and boost gauges on the steering column (no A-pillar pods for me -- too flashy!).

 

[Super6]

Kirban

Thanks Matt, i think i am going to order Kirbans VDO gauge kit. i already have the console pod and i think his kit will make it a bit easier As long as they are accurate i am fine with electric gauges..................................................................Bob

 

[salvageV6]

VDO sucks I work there.

I usually use USA made Autometer gauges.

Not sure where the voodoo gauges are made these days, they used to be made in VA prolly Mexico now.

With a little work you can do mechanical gauges, besides you will get good at plumbing things.

Oh yeah you need a big hole in the firewall too to get the large bulb sender out of since the capillary tube is not separable from the sender.

 

[ALBERTAN]

Originally posted by salvageV6
Oh yeah you need a big hole in the firewall too to get the large bulb sender out of since the capillary tube is not separable from the sender.

Electric, electric, electric.

 

[salvageV6]

Hey it's only about a 3/4" hole and you won't short out the wiring when the cheesy electrical sender self destructs.

And they are more accurate and

 

[turbo nasty]

oil psi gauge
Mechanical:
good accuracy,
bad if oil line breaks and oil gets all in the car

Elec.
not as accurate
no oil worrys

Though the cyberdyne digital elec are pretty freaking accurate..+ or - 1 %

 

[salvageV6]

When an electrical sender breaks or falls apart due to the heat the oil goes right out of the motor onto your driveway.

Just like when the idiot light sender self destructs.

There are indeed oil worrys.

Not sure about the accuracy of the system the display is probably 1% resolution.

Use what you are happy and comfortable with.

 

[Super6]

Phantom gauges

Thanks for the info guys. I guess i will bite the bullet and go mechanical. A little more work will pay off. I just like those white faced gauges, gotta have them If anyone else has any more pics or can take some pics of their senders,the way the line is run etc etc etc..............that would be great. as soon as i get my gauges done i will send pics to anyone who wants to see them.........................................thanks

 

[brittken]

Mechanical!! Mechanical!!

I use Autometer mechanical gauges. I have oil ,water ,volt and a hood mounted fuel pressure gauges for my turbo t.. I used copper tubing for my oil, plastic tubing for my VDO boost gauge and stainless braided line for my fuel pressure gauge. The one good thing about mechanical gauges is that when you are either fine tuning your car or have an emergency you will always know how much oil and fuel pressure still remains with the engine off. You will also be able to tell what the engine temp iwhen it is off. Also there is a hole in the firewall large enough to run all the lines where the speedometer cable runs to the dash. Eletrical may be easier but in my opinion mechanical is better.

 

[Steve Hill]

IMO, Salvage is right on; Mechanical for accuracy (and relatively easy install) on the oil press., electrical on the water temp.
If you're bucks up go the digital route with pressure transducers.

 

[salvageV6]

Look in the laptop holder album for some gauge install pics.

Big brass NPT T fitting for the oil temp.

Oil pressure is up top of the TA62 turbo along with the feed line. T 1/8 NPT fitting and the orginal NPT to flare pipe adaptor into the top of the T. Sender line is copper 1/8" pipe to the usual 1/8" NPT fitting that goes in the front part of the T.

Water temp. is a conglomeration of pipe stuff into the existing temp. switch hole and probably should be on the other side of the manifold into the other temp. switch but they both still work okay.

http://www.clubphoto.com/_cgi-bin/e...hoto.com/allan631980/1294837/owner-0a12.phtml

 

[GNandTTA]

Someone please enlighten me: I don't see how any kind of mechanical temperature gauge could be better than an electric temperature gauge. If you have the gauge mounted in the dash you would have to have a tube at least 3+ feet long. I would think it would take a long time before the fluid trapped at the gauge would become the same temp as the fluid in the motor you are trying to monitor. The pressure gauges I can see because fluids transfer pressure well, but not temps.

 

[Steve Hill]

wellll, you are correct about the length and size of the tubing, but it works doesn't work the way you think.
On the plus side, an electric gauge can react to variations nearly instantaneously, but it is also subject to inaccuracies via voltage fluctuations.
A mechanical temp guage tends to be quite accurate and highly reliable, working even when your engine is off.
However, for the reasons stated above, an electrical temp gauge is easier to deal with and the accuracy is close enough.
My field experience with these sorts of things is that I'd never trust an electrical oil pressure guage. The senders are too unreliable. Just my observations. YMMV