Good Morning......E.T. Question?

[Mustang 1]

Good Morning! I just would like somebody to make an educated guess guess as to my E.T. with my current combo. I do have some idea as to what it will run, as 3 years ago I was able to take it to the strip with some of the mod's, just not all. The 1/8th mile times where as follows: the 60" was 1.994, the e.t. was 8.039, and the trap speed was 94.795 mph. My car at the time had an PTE 52, CAS V-4, 009's, 3" THDP, 3" Super Sigle exhaust, and the intake and the upper where cleaned up and port matched. At that time the car had the stock lock up torque converter and a Red's 93 octane chip and was running a 17 psi boost peak with 15 psi steady. It also had the stock 215/65/15 Goodyear Eagle's. The car spun terribly, hense the poor short time.

The changes made since then are an Art Carr 3000 stall loc-up converter, drag springs and shocks, 255/60/15 tires, and a new chip with 23 dgress of timing and boost peaking at 22 psi in first and second and 20 psi in third and forth. the car definitely pulls harder....but, the question is; what kind of improvement will the additional boost have at the track? Also, will the stall help my short time with the additional of the suspension and the tire change? My guess is the car will be capable of the middle high 7's in the 1/8th, but will the higher stall converter improve or lower my trap speed; keeping in mind the tires are taller than stock? Do any of you have a combo like this? I run a 50/50 mix of Sunoco 110 leaded and 93 octane and I get 0 knock at the boost pressures that I mentioned. All replies are greatly appreciated and I thank you in advance. Bill

 

[ES1]

Not sure on the times but those were very good numbers that you ran before.
I am going to guess you will blow the tires away with as much power as your car showed before.
I hope the new tires are at least DR.
You need boxed LCA and an ATR swaybar if you don't have them, IMO.

 

[Mustang 1]

Thanks for the reply. Also, I forgot to mention that at the time of the old 1/8th mile run, the car had a B & M Shift Kit. I also know that the car seemed to be running kind of rich. I just recently had the trans rebuilt at 55,000 miles and had it upgraded to a Trans Go full race shift kit with Kevlar Blue Plate clutches and the wide band. I als had a performance billet servo installed at the same time. In your reply, you mentioned boxed lower control arms. Could you tell me more? The reason that I am asking, is that sense the trans rebuild, the transmission shifts really firm, but it barely chirps the tires. Instead, seemingly the entire rear end of the car turns. You feel the sensation of the rear axle twisting upward! I know that this probably sounds strange, but that is what it feels like. It is as if there is a lot of wasted motion somewhere between the transmission and the road. I have noticed that the top of some of the body to frame bushings at the rear of the car have rotted away. So, I am planning on replacing all of the body to frame bushings with hard urethane ones and also was planning on replacing the rear control bushings with the same. Do you think that this might fix the problem? Also, the car does not seem to shift as firm with the higher stall converter. The builder says that the high stall converter effectively soaks up some of the firmness in the shift. Does this seem to be likely? Thanks again for your reply and have a great evening!

 

[ES1]

Not sure on the convertor, that is my next upgrade.
By replacing the control bushings you will thighten it up.
Boxing the LCA will decrease the flex as well as the ATR swaybar.
You might check the transmission mounts to make sure they are secure.
I would get someone to check on the way the rear end is acting.

Have you installed braces behind the back seat?

I have boxed LCA, ATR swaybar, replaced all body bushings, X brace behind seat, Y braces upfront as well as 2 underhood braces and my car is tight and it is a 130,000 mile car.