GN overheats, FMIC...

[DeltaBravo]

Do you have two separate grounds spliced into one? If so try running two dedicated ground wires, one from each fan.

I get what your saying, isolate the fans individually. Yes I could do that.

Thanks for the tip,

 

[vader87]

I live in El Paso and I have had great success by building a box that channels most of the incoming air through my RJC FMIC. I have tried to block most of the "leaks" from around the FMIC and radiator ensuring the air will be channeled through the radiator. I used black Boltaron Plastic sheets (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemVersion&item=281369679870&view=all&tid=1416981784018), cut them to fit and used a heat gun to shape them where they needed to be shaped. My temps rarely get offer 190 degrees but I do NOT have A/C so please take that in consideration.

Before:
IMG_20150913_115108 by Robert Griffin, on Flickr

After:
IMG_20150913_120442 by Robert Griffin, on Flickr

IMG_20150913_120436 by Robert Griffin, on Flickr

There is a bottom piece as well which forms a box to channel air through the RJC. The bottom piece extends all the way to the core support, sealing the area between the FMIC, core support and radiator.

 

[DeltaBravo]

I live in El Paso and I have had great success by building a box that channels most of the incoming air through my RJC FMIC. I have tried to block most of the "leaks" from around the FMIC and radiator ensuring the air will be channeled through the radiator. I used black Boltaron Plastic sheets (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemVersion&item=281369679870&view=all&tid=1416981784018), cut them to fit and used a heat gun to shape them where they needed to be shaped. My temps rarely get offer 190 degrees but I do NOT have A/C so please take that in consideration.

Before:
IMG_20150913_115108 by Robert Griffin, on Flickr

After:
IMG_20150913_120442 by Robert Griffin, on Flickr

IMG_20150913_120436 by Robert Griffin, on Flickr

There is a bottom piece as well which forms a box to channel air through the RJC. The bottom piece extends all the way to the core support, sealing the area between the FMIC, core support and radiator.

Great minds, think alike! That's exactly what I did...except I used Cardboard and duck tape as a temporary solution to the problem. I appreciate the insight to the material you used...will definitely keep this as a possible permanent solution. For now, I think I have other problem related to my cooling issue.

Thanks

 

[vader87]

You will hear all kinds of debates on radiators and whats the best. All I can say is research and decide for your self. I elected to use an F body radiator because of price. I don't mind replacing it every 5 years as it gives me a chance to clean the complete system anyway! I do use distilled water and RMI-25, Intrepid fans and a seal around the fans. Bottom line is, your complete cooling system needs to be healthy, These cars are old now!

 

[mtocrs1]

How are the plastic panels attached on the sides?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[vader87]

I used a heat gun and bent a 90 degree angle then used 3m double sided tape to attach it to the FMIC. Just make sure you clean it with thinner or something like that so it will stick. No issues and I have been 130 mph.

 

[ITSAV6]

the F body works well i like the plastic box

 

[regan j]

Did you ever check to see if the radiator is clogged??

 

[DeltaBravo]

I get what your saying, isolate the fans individually. Yes I could do that.

Thanks for the tip,

UPDATE

I've discovered I have Stock wiring supporting a dual fan set up. I think the load of two fans is causing the wires to get hot. I've ordered a 'plug and plug harness for the Intrepid dual fan set up. I feel this will fix the hot wires issues...Once it come in (by the end of the week) I should hopefully have a good test drive on the new radiator cap I installed earlier.

I also have a 160 degree thermostat on standby...I don't want to change it out yet just because I don't want to change to many things at once.

 

[DeltaBravo]

Did you ever check to see if the radiator is clogged??

No...totally forgot. But I now know how I can do that. I can unplug one of the fans and feel the radiator as described earlier...

thanks for the reminder.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Simple inspection of the rad core is to drain, look in w/ a lite, and see if the core tube ends are loaded w/ calcium/crud deposits.
If so, you can bet that the crud has collected in the lower ends of the tanks, and may have some tubes completely plugged.
As an experiment, "my 99%" 87 had the crud on the tubes. I pulled the unit, found it corroded at the tanks, and cut it open at the ends of the core. The lower tubes were totally plugged. This was on a 59K mile car. Being it is a lower mile car, the rad condition pretty much much went along w/ the pisspoor maintenance from the po's...

 

[vader87]

It only takes a few years for rust and calcium do start destroying our cooling system.

 

[DeltaBravo]

Well...I was able to finally get a test drive in. She still overheats...but due to some great tips, I now know why! More than half of the radiator felt cool to the touch except for the very top and the sides...they were HOT! So I think it safe to say...she aint' flowing as advertised.

Now...my next dilemma...get an off the shelf radiator from my local parts store and be up and running in no time. Or...get that nice updated aluminum model with dual internal coolers for both the oil and tranny. Hmmmm.....

Thanks to all that helped.

PS. The "plug and play" wire harness I installed to alleviate the hot wire issue did not help! I still need to dive deeper into that one.

 

[ITSAV6]

f body IROC rad works well, mine runs 170 or below in summer heat when cruising ac it runs 185 idling

 

[Boost231]

Alradco for the win

 

[GNRick]

Does your new wire harness have separate grounds?

 

[regan j]

You may want to check a local radiator shop and see how much rodding out the radiator would cost. should'nt be more than 40 or 50 dollars.

 

[DeltaBravo]

Does your new wire harness have separate grounds?

Nope...made by Caspers Electronics. Very nice piece. Comes with two separate relays and a power wire that connects directly to the battery. The other end just simply gets the ECU signal and grounds the circuit. At the connection, the ground wire (on the engine harness side) gets so hot that it actually melts the insulation.

 

[DeltaBravo]

You may want to check a local radiator shop and see how much rodding out the radiator would cost. should'nt be more than 40 or 50 dollars.

I will look into that...but I also now that is a lost and hard to find art!