gerotor front cover update

Dude, I layed it all out there for ya in that other thread already :)

I have 4 of the dual element crank sensors, one of 'em is bound to work. I have one S2 damper with the dual ring interrupter setup for the above sensor. That's all you would need to run the ignition it sounds like. No cam sensor required then. I still plan to verify that asap, prolly by Mon. I have a digital pattern generator that will serve, and a 4 channel DSO to verify the results. Looks to me like the sensor assy will bolt right on, but need to verify. The interrupter rings go on with screws as as opposed to the stock press on ring. Not sure if that's a big issue or not.

This week I've been workng the TH400 swap issue, so the other stuff has lapsed a bit.

If you'd like I'll bring it in and shoot a pic of the stuff.

TurboTR
 
Kendal,

The 85 to 88 3.0 MFI engine uses a dual crank sensor (two hall effect switches in one sensor) The 3.0 engine also uses the same ignition module as our engines. This was a batch fire engine. The "cam" signal occurs every 360 degrees instead of every 720 for our engines. If you are using a batch fire DFI box this should work great.

If you are using a stock or sequential box, I don't believe it will work.

The motorsports balancer has an interrupter ring for a dual crank sensor as previously mentioned. They are not too hard to come by either.

Because these early sfi/mfi engines didn't use a balance shaft, you should be able to use those timing sets to drive your oil pump. That gerotor pump ought to be able to really supply oil to your engine.

BTW the 3.3 engine 89 to 93 had a real nice timing chain tensioner/dampner that should bolt right on and work great for your application. They won't fit under the stock 20 bolt front cover so they dont do us "common" people any good. I think Ive got one somewhere in my stash of V6 parts.

Dave
 
Well there ya go Kendall :)

So Dave, can you describe the interrupter rings for the 3.0L MFI engine? Could they be easily adapted to the S2 damper? They're probably just the same rings that are on the damper I have(?)

At this point pics would be a big help. I'll take some today.

TurboTR
 
Ok Kendall I did some testing today on a type 2 ignition module. Feeding a GN crank pattern and doubling up on the cam signal, one every rev instead of every 2 revs. It does appear to work ok.

TurboTR
 
Thanks! I will go out checking when I can to see if the dual pattern sensors/balancers are on early 3.0 applications; if I can't find one I'll be giving you a call, OK? I appreciate you spending the time. :)
 
Hey Kendall,
Did you ever complete your analysis of the gear rotor oil pump? How did it work out for you?
 
I had trouble with the first one when it warped while welding the back side. I am planning to make a jig where I can weld them without unbolting them to solve this problem, but I haven't done so yet. I have been ridiculously busy and short of car time and $ lately. Chalk me up for "good idea, poor execution" so far. :(
 
Someone else, ctx-slpr I think, is doing this on a stock block 4.1 that he is building. He's posted several times about it.
 
I'm wondering if Ed Pink is still in business or retired, if retired who took over his operation. He has the moxie and ability to complete a project of this type and a good back ground with V6 S2s.
 
ijames said:
Someone else, ctx-slpr I think, is doing this on a stock block 4.1 that he is building. He's posted several times about it.
Click to expand...
Still working on it. I have my jig made to weld the 2 halfs together. However I just moved to Nashville and that means I need to find a new welder. Since I will be going back to Dayton on occassion to visit my girlfriend and finish up my masters degree I might still have Hobart do it. The thing is that mine won't work with a stock block unless you feed it like the external oiling setups because I'm using the later Series II pump which has a revised cover design. The huge snag I had was the 4.1 production blocks, or atleast mine doesn't have much material between the water and oil passages and machining it out for the 3/8" NPT feed line broke through to the water and I had to have Ohio George machine up a screw in fitting and plug the stock feed hole so I can't go back even if I wanted to. Once I get settled here and get the cooling and oil consumption issues on the Riviera figured out so I can get them slated for repair before PT08 I'll get cracking on this again and post updates.
 
GARY HARVEY said:
Darn, I wish this idea was still on the table... :mad:
Click to expand...

I've had mine working for almost two years. I did wind up changing the design of how the oil pump gets driven. The first time I had a spacer between the timing gear and the balancer. Now I have the balancer machined so there's no spacer required. So far so good. Here's the link...

78 Malibu Hybrid Oil Pump
 
Gary, Im not easily impressed, but that is great!!! Now you guys got me thinkin!!! and thats not good :eek: Thanks for sharing all your hard work
for the rest of us to see. Thanks Mike:cool:
 
Add the Rotor Assembly... unless you have a friend with Buick or gear rotor manf., which would most likely be easier on the wallet anyway.
I'm thinking of building a proper jig to assemble the covers and the cut.
Rotor cutter would be clean
The piece to fill the covers should be easy enough. Welding wouldn't be a problem (i nose how).
Cryoed for an extra $100.
I'm thinking the most time consuming portion of this would be getting the cuts correct for the trigger on the S2.
I've changed my pump setup 2X's and spent more time and money than I care to remember but this rotor pump is a much better mouse trap, off the scale IMO.
I wish a vendor would step up to the plate.
I'll check and see what the covers will cost us. if we can find a dozen interested people, it would help.
Too many good ideas and not enough time... :mad:
I gotta think some more about this.
 
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