Fuel pump prime

Is it possible your hearing the powermaster brake booster cycling and mistaking it for the fp relay?

Yes you can jump the fp relay plug on the passenger fender. Jump B and D. Thats the center pin on one side with the single pin on the other. That should make the pump run with the key on.
 
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Go to the fuel pump hanger wire harness. Stick a paper clip in the grey wire connection. Run a wire from the battery positive terminal to the paper clip. This will bypass the factory wiring and relay. Sounds to me like your relay is fine. I still think it could be your MAF if it's factory. Or maybe even the ecm, like in my case.
 
Maybe you have a dirty fuel filter? You may also need new plugs, plug wires, or maybe you have dirty fuel injectors? Just throwing out ideas for you. With only 35k miles the car has done a lot of sitting over the years probably.
 
Is it possible your hearing the powermaster brake booster cycling and mistaking it for the fp relay?

Yes you can jump the fp relay plug on the passenger fender. Jump B and D. Thats the center pin on one side with the single pin on the other. That should make the pump run with the key on.
Hmmm, I never thought of that but I could feel the FP relay click with my fingers while my son turned the key.
 
Maybe you have a dirty fuel filter? You may also need new plugs, plug wires, or maybe you have dirty fuel injectors? Just throwing out ideas for you. With only 35k miles the car has done a lot of sitting over the years probably.

We did a brand new fuel filter when we put the Walboro in it. That's what so weird to me, when I bought it the pump had no prime but ran fine after starting, the seller said the pump was bad and gave me the walboro with it. I put the walboro in it along with a new fuel filter and bam, it would start right up and run great. Then after about 50 miles or so the pump just wouldn't prime again. It suddenly happened after I had the battery tender on and the negative clip came off of the fender. That's why I was wondering if there is anything that might have damaged.

I'll try to jump the relay connector and see what happens.

Thanks
 
OK, first I had my wife turn the key two clicks, I felt the relay click and then click again after 3 seconds, then I jumped the connector, turned the key forward and the pump ran. Then, I stuck a test light in the connector at the dark green wire coming from the ECU and the light came on for about 3 seconds.
So I'm getting a signal from the ECU to the relay connector and the when jumped at the connector the FP is getting a signal with the key on. I'm hearing and feeling the FP relay working, could it still click and be bad? I'm no electronic whiz but it seems like the problem is the relay. I wonder if the new one I got is bad as well.
 
To me everything was showing relay problem. I took a chance and went and got another new one, plugged it in and now the pump is priming.

Thanks for all the help.
 
OK, first I had my wife turn the key two clicks, I felt the relay click and then click again after 3 seconds, then I jumped the connector, turned the key forward and the pump ran. Then, I stuck a test light in the connector at the dark green wire coming from the ECU and the light came on for about 3 seconds.
So I'm getting a signal from the ECU to the relay connector and the when jumped at the connector the FP is getting a signal with the key on. I'm hearing and feeling the FP relay working, could it still click and be bad? I'm no electronic whiz but it seems like the problem is the relay. I wonder if the new one I got is bad as well.


Like I posted earlier... There's more to the circuit than just the relay. You knew the ECM trigger wire was working as you could hear and feel the relay actuating.

Now, once again, get the volt meter out and see if you have power getting to the relay. If not, then your problem is upstream, from there. If you have power going into the relay, do you have power coming out? If so, your problem is down stream from there.
 
Like I posted earlier... There's more to the circuit than just the relay. You knew the ECM trigger wire was working as you could hear and feel the relay actuating.

Now, once again, get the volt meter out and see if you have power getting to the relay. If not, then your problem is upstream, from there. If you have power going into the relay, do you have power coming out? If so, your problem is down stream from there.
Earl,

I checked the signal from the ECM using a test light at the dark green/white strip wire, turned the key forward and got the light for 3 seconds.

Then I jumped the relay connector, turned the key and got the pump running.

I'm far from an electronic expert but with the signal coming in from the ECM being good and the signal going out to the pump being good that kind of told me the only problem could be the relay.

I tried another new one and now it works perfectly, the last new I bought must've been bad to start with.

I'm still wondering what made it go bad in the first place.

Thanks
 
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