For those of you who have done the S-10 Blazer brake upgrade...

[d0n_3d]

Just a general question: Do I need to put grease in the spindle cup and/or do I need to grease the bearing on the hub assembly? It spins by hand right now and didn't know if the oil in the bearing is good enough? I have attached some pics to show you what I'm dealing with. Also seems like I am missing something because you can see an opening in the center of the hub when it is attached to the spindle, and you can see all the way into the cup. Is this normal? Or do I just bolt these on and forget about them? Thanks.

 

[gunslinger]

The bearing and hub are sealed assemblies. Just bolt them to the knuckle and install.

 

[d0n_3d]

The bearing and hub are sealed assemblies. Just bolt them to the knuckle and install.

Thanks! I kinda figured that but wanted to make double sure. So I take it if the bearing ever goes bad, I just replace the entire hub assembly, correct? Also, should I paint the inside cup on the spindle so they don't rust? I had the spindles powdercoated but didn't have them do the centers.

 

[davidf]

In that case you might spread a thin film of grease in there just to keep moisture from getting to the metal. Why the long studs in the front?

 

[d0n_3d]

Long studs are for my GTA wheels. I have two fronts and two rears (backspace is huge). I'm going to run a pretty decent sized spacer so I can extend the wheels out to about the edge of the fender lip edges. I think it looks meaner this way, rather than having the wheels so far recessed inside the wheel wells like stock.

 

[novaderrik]

if you are going to space the wheels out that far, you might want to forget about the spacers and get adapters. there will be a HUGE amount of stress put on those long studs.

 

[davidf]

You will like that brake setup. I notice an immediate difference.

 

[dwkohout]

In that case you might spread a thin film of grease in there just to keep moisture from getting to the metal.

Imo rtv would be seal it up with less mess.

 

[charlief1]

You've got the wrong hub assembly Don. That's the 4WD hub. The 2WD hub is closed off on the center.

 

[novaderrik]

You've got the wrong hub assembly Don. That's the 4WD hub. The 2WD hub is closed off on the center.

i noticed that about the pics, but i don't see any splines in the hole.
could be that some hubs are open in the middle- which means less unsprung weight..

 

[charlief1]

The aftermarket ones should have a closed center, not an open one.

 

[d0n_3d]

You've got the wrong hub assembly Don. That's the 4WD hub. The 2WD hub is closed off on the center.

When I ordered these off of ebay...the description specifically said 2WD. Crap, can I still get by with these 4WD hubs??? I knew I would encounter a problem with this

 

[d0n_3d]

if you are going to space the wheels out that far, you might want to forget about the spacers and get adapters. there will be a HUGE amount of stress put on those long studs.

Can you explain a little more on what adapters I need? I'm not sure what you mean by that. The studs are ARP. I got the 3.25" length. I was going to run two 1/2" spacers on each front wheel since I got like 6 spacers I can use.

On the center holes of the hubs...they are NOT splined, rather smooth. Are they 2WD then? Will I be OK? I just went through a lot getting all this stuff prepped and really don't want to scrap this idea now. Thanks guys for the help.

 

[d0n_3d]

I checked the part number on both hubs and they are stamped 513200 and if you do a search on ebay for that part number, they say 2WD. From the looks of it, I think these particular hubs didn't come with the center press-in cover piece. If you pull up some pics of some of the ebay ones, they have that cover in the center. I wonder where I can get those covers.

Also looks like some of these hubs have splines in the center and some don't. But they all say 2WD? Talk about confusing. I don't have splines in mine.

 

[charlief1]

Take them to a parts store and put a freeze plug in them. That should take care of it. If They hold up you're ahead of the game.

 

[The_Six]

Those look nice Wish I could find a set of those here Ive been looking for a year now and still havent found a 2wd blazer in a salvage yard to get the parts off of.

 

[d0n_3d]

Those look nice Wish I could find a set of those here Ive been looking for a year now and still havent found a 2wd blazer in a salvage yard to get the parts off of.

I got really lucky and found these spindles on craigslist. A local kid was selling them because he lowered his blazer. I scored both spindles for $50. The hubs cost me like $100 for both, new on ebay. Still have to get rotors, calipers, pads, etc. I need to find some junk cores so I don't have to pay the crazy core charges on the calipers.

 

[The_Six]

Man wish I cad that luck. If the salvage yards by you are like the one here you can get the calipers from a 4x4 for $10 then use them as cores for new ones. I gave up my serch and just decided to use the cash on hydroboost and will get a set of the Stainless Steel Brakes calipers later on.

 

[novaderrik]

Can you explain a little more on what adapters I need? I'm not sure what you mean by that. The studs are ARP. I got the 3.25" length. I was going to run two 1/2" spacers on each front wheel since I got like 6 spacers I can use.

On the center holes of the hubs...they are NOT splined, rather smooth. Are they 2WD then? Will I be OK? I just went through a lot getting all this stuff prepped and really don't want to scrap this idea now. Thanks guys for the help.

ARP doesn't want you to run those long studs with wheel spacers.
the proper way to space a wheel out that far is to use an adapter that bolts to the stock studs and has another set of studs that you bolt the wheels to. this way, the loads are spread between 2 sets of shorter studs and the adapter. plus, the adapter will be machined to keep the wheel centered on the hub instead of using the studs to center the wheel, which take a lot of the load off the studs, too.
i'm sure people have run thick spacers and gotten away with it, but if you show up at an NHRA track they won't let you run it like that.

 

[d0n_3d]

ARP doesn't want you to run those long studs with wheel spacers.
the proper way to space a wheel out that far is to use an adapter that bolts to the stock studs and has another set of studs that you bolt the wheels to. this way, the loads are spread between 2 sets of shorter studs and the adapter. plus, the adapter will be machined to keep the wheel centered on the hub instead of using the studs to center the wheel, which take a lot of the load off the studs, too.
i'm sure people have run thick spacers and gotten away with it, but if you show up at an NHRA track they won't let you run it like that.

Oh ok...now I understand. Thanks I will definitely look into this. Problem is, I already spent like $120 on 20 of these long studs and have the fronts already pressed in. Can you re-use studs after they were pressed in? Maybe I will sell them at a discount.