for a stroker 109, All billet caps or just the middle 2??

BetMinesFaster

Turbo LSX Trader
Joined
Aug 7, 2007
Im building a stroker 109 block for my GN, My question is all billet main caps or just the center 2?? The block will have a girdle as well, I beat the car up pretty badly so im not shy of spending the money if its worth it?? Im interested in opinions on it, Thanks, Ryan
 
2 caps is all u need.

I asked two well respected engine builders that same question and they both said u only need 2 caps when running a steel crank. Even without a girdle U only need the two center caps when running a good crank. So with what ur planning, spend the money ur saving somewhere else---go with a billet roller cam or something like that.
 
we are just running a girdle on my motor, stock caps.. and like stated above, a GOOD machine shop....
 
i agree stock caps will work but the billet centers are cheap.
 
Billet 109

Two billet mains and NO girdle needed!! I have a great 109 motor with stock heads. Look in My sig. Make sure you DO Not use the stock crank. No matter what you have for strength.
 
Make sure you DO Not use the stock crank.
and what is wrong with the stock crank? I don't seem to have any problems with mine. I know of a few of the steel cranks that have let loose & have not gone any faster than myself. is it a smart thing to do? may be not but at this present time I don't have the funds to build my stroker motor with the BMS crank I have stored away.
 
Tony I agree but...

Two billet mains and NO girdle needed!! I have a great 109 motor with stock heads. Look in My sig. Make sure you DO Not use the stock crank. No matter what you have for strength.

I think were about to get beat down on the whole stock vs. eagle crank issue!:eek:
 
Maybe nothing?

All I know is that my motor had some gold in the oil, July this year. I tore the motor down to find the thrust bearing was about gone. Thank God about gone.
I had a internal balanced crank built to my set-up. Have no issues so far. The stock crank will flex. With those numbers you should be about 700 hp to the wheels and alot lighter than a real GN owner!! Glad you have had luck with your set-up. Did you race the car like I did? Every weekend, sometimes Sat/Sun. Or let it set in the garage and bring it out when needed? :eek:
 
My car on a chassis dyno did 490 rwhp @ 472ft lbs of torque. 25lbs of boost.
It weighs 3250 without me in it.
my car is 150lbs lighter than yours, I have run up wards of 32 psi of boost (not with the turbo I presently have) for almost 6 years, I don't normally run less than 30 psi. I have freshened it up once (new bearings) not because it needed to but I was going to sell it. I'm not saying folks are going faster & more reliable with the steel crank. I'm just saying from my experience / luck I have not had any problems with just the 2 center main caps. if you have a thrust issue you may want to look at the converter or the machine work that may be causing that problem.
 
Mr. Indian

You have done very well. Once again did your turn the car up one pass and take it to the garage. Or do you run these numbers all day every day? I know you have alot in the tune to make these et's/numbers. Where is the time slips and where did you get the figures?
 
If you feel like adding caps to the girdle then the middles would be plenty.

As for cranks, many stock cranks in the 9's, hell Jason Cramers is 20 under!!!
Buicks don't turn a lot of RPM which is big factor in picking a crank, if you plan on living above 6000 and beyond, then go forged for sure.
 
Just over 500 rwhp and with a stock crank, .10/.10 and stock caps with a girdle. Stock cranks will live when making some power. But like it was said, a good machine shop can be the difference from hp or death. Just cause you have a steel crank does not mean it will live longer than a stock crank. If it is not set up properly they will all fail.
 
my car is 150lbs lighter than yours, I have run up wards of 32 psi of boost (not with the turbo I presently have) for almost 6 years, I don't normally run less than 30 psi. I have freshened it up once (new bearings) not because it needed to but I was going to sell it. I'm not saying folks are going faster & more reliable with the steel crank. I'm just saying from my experience / luck I have not had any problems with just the 2 center main caps. if you have a thrust issue you may want to look at the converter or the machine work that may be causing that problem.

I here you. I am in the same boat. My motor has been together for 8 years with lots of passes (zero issues). I have steel caps with a stock crank & rods. But a 9sec 109 running a stock crank is a accident waiting to happen. Sure you and me have had success thus far. But I would not reccomend it to anybody else. Cause once it goes, it takes out more then just the crank. My brother commented on that the other day I had no answer for him. He said,"Mike I think its time you upgrade to forged internals, what if that crank lets go when your in top gear and windows your motor?" I said, "I would be in deep s h i t especailly if it got oil and coolant on my back tires at 130plus mph. Stock cranks running 9's are admirable but not adviseable in my opinion. At this level, our saftey has to be worth something.
 
Like said above we all know these cars can fly with stock cranks , caps , just not safely. I myself always seem to like to test parts to the limit :eek: I first went 10's with my car back in 1993 , and close to mid 10's since 98 . I've always run completly stock shortblocks with no problems , up until last year 2006 I had 250 10 sec. passes on this particular shortblock 20/20 crank , I tried a chip with more timing and by the third pass the car just made a noise and shut off. The pics show the results , bottom line you can go really fast with stock bottom end parts , just don't ever lean out !!!!!!!!
 

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Like said above we all know these cars can fly with stock cranks , caps , just not safely. I myself always seem to like to test parts to the limit :eek: I first went 10's with my car back in 1993 , and close to mid 10's since 98 . I've always run completly stock shortblocks with no problems , up until last year 2006 I had 250 10 sec. passes on this particular shortblock 20/20 crank , I tried a chip with more timing and by the third pass the car just made a noise and shut off. The pics show the results , bottom line you can go really fast with stock bottom end parts , just don't ever lean out !!!!!!!!

Wow, That thing is trashed!! Well on the bright side, for having 250 10 second passes id have to say that the visible bearing looks good!! Lol, Im always an optimist!!!
 
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