Flaring Break Lines
- Thread starter pvtpilot
- Start date
The trick to stopping the leaks is to get the hole centered in the tubing. If it is offset just a little bit, there is not enough meat on one side of the fitting to seal against the compression nut.
Get ahold of a pre-made brake line at a local auto store to verify your work, copying the size and shape of the pre-made to your new brake line end. I had to do a tiny amount of filing on mine just to make it look correct.
Good luck, don't get too mad..................
Get ahold of a pre-made brake line at a local auto store to verify your work, copying the size and shape of the pre-made to your new brake line end. I had to do a tiny amount of filing on mine just to make it look correct.
Good luck, don't get too mad..................
Most el-cheapo double flaring tools are for soft tubing (copper, aluminum, etc) only and say so right on the package. Asking them to double flare steel brake line usually doesn't work too well.
The only handheld double flaring tool I've ever used that did a good job on steel brake lines was a very small hydraulic tool with a handpump, and it did an excellent job. I've never used a screw/crank type double flaring tool (even good ones like Snap-On and Rigid offer) that did a halfway decent job on a steel brake line. If one exists... I'd like to know! I can't justify spending $400 on a hydraulic unit that I use once a year (if that).
The only handheld double flaring tool I've ever used that did a good job on steel brake lines was a very small hydraulic tool with a handpump, and it did an excellent job. I've never used a screw/crank type double flaring tool (even good ones like Snap-On and Rigid offer) that did a halfway decent job on a steel brake line. If one exists... I'd like to know! I can't justify spending $400 on a hydraulic unit that I use once a year (if that).
TheNovaMan
New Member
- Joined
- Nov 4, 2002
For goodness sake, don't try to do it with the lines ON THE CAR! Save youselves the aspirin bills by bending the tube, flaring it, THEN installing it.
I've used the cheapo $10 tools on steel lines with no problem. You know, the ones that are two steel bars with half a hole in each bar, and they are held together with wing nuts? Chuck the wing nuts in a drawer and use some real nuts and a wrench, and tighten that thing down as hard as you can. Have a generous 1/8" of tube sticking out of the hole in the tool, and definitely get the mandrel centered over the tube. Crank it down, then remove. Now with just the cone part of the tool, get it centered again and crank it down again. Remove tubing from tool and you're ready to go. If it doesn't seal, make the tube nut tighter so it smashes the flare against the seat.
I've used the cheapo $10 tools on steel lines with no problem. You know, the ones that are two steel bars with half a hole in each bar, and they are held together with wing nuts? Chuck the wing nuts in a drawer and use some real nuts and a wrench, and tighten that thing down as hard as you can. Have a generous 1/8" of tube sticking out of the hole in the tool, and definitely get the mandrel centered over the tube. Crank it down, then remove. Now with just the cone part of the tool, get it centered again and crank it down again. Remove tubing from tool and you're ready to go. If it doesn't seal, make the tube nut tighter so it smashes the flare against the seat.
