What wideband, fuel pressure transducer, maf settings etc so we know how to configure our PL? Am I seeing this right that the coolant sensor is reading 112 degrees and you have a stored code for it?
I am not running a wideband (I wish I was and it will be the next thing I buy. Here is what my screen looks like for setup
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Engine Cuts out and stumbles under boost...HELP PLEASE! `
- Thread starter Nero328
- Start date
achalmersman
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- Joined
- May 28, 2012
So you dont have a wideband or fuel pressure transducer? I assumed this stuff was being monitored. And you really do have a faulty coolant temp sensor?
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achalmersman
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- May 28, 2012
I definitely dont see log signs of the ECM rebooting which is what I expected to see when we thought you had non-resistor plugs. I am not a PL pro but my initial observations
1. Code for coolant temp and stuck at 112 degrees
2. No wideband
3. No fuel pressure
4. Pulls are either not WOT, or TPS is not adjusted correctly.
I cant imaging trying to troubleshoot these issues without AFR and Fuel pressure logs during the symptom. I just reviewed your first post and it says you have a autometee gauge. You need to tie that transducer into the PL analog input board.
Excuse my lack of detail but thats from reviewing your files on my phone. Im not home
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1. Code for coolant temp and stuck at 112 degrees
2. No wideband
3. No fuel pressure
4. Pulls are either not WOT, or TPS is not adjusted correctly.
I cant imaging trying to troubleshoot these issues without AFR and Fuel pressure logs during the symptom. I just reviewed your first post and it says you have a autometee gauge. You need to tie that transducer into the PL analog input board.
Excuse my lack of detail but thats from reviewing your files on my phone. Im not home
No trees were harmed in the sending of this message, however, a significant number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
I definitely dont see log signs of the ECM rebooting which is what I expected to see when we thought you had non-resistor plugs. I am not a PL pro but my initial observations
1. Code for coolant temp and stuck at 112 degrees
2. No wideband
3. No fuel pressure
4. Pulls are either not WOT, or TPS is not adjusted correctly.
I cant imaging trying to troubleshoot these issues without AFR and Fuel pressure logs during the symptom. I just reviewed your first post and it says you have a autometee gauge. You need to tie that transducer into the PL analog input board.
Excuse my lack of detail but thats from reviewing your files on my phone. Im not home
No trees were harmed in the sending of this message, however, a significant number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
Yes I have a FP gauge, do I just run that signal wire to the PL board on one of the spare slots? I have been watching FP and it is rising one for one with boost. I have the base pressure at 43 psi with the vacuum line off.
1) The code for the coolant temp is fixed now...the sensor was not plugged in, I missed it when I put the car back together but that was not causing this problem.
2) I hear what you are saying about the wideband and yes I will be ordering one as soon as I can recover from this last cash bleed however that can't be causing my issues, there are a ton of people that are not running a wideband and they aren't having this problem. Yes I agree it is the best thing to do however it shouldn't be what my problem is it?
3) I will run a signal wire to the PL for Fuel Pressure however I have been watching the gauge and it is rising one for one with boost. It is set at 43 PSI with the vacuum line off. It feels like the car is running out of fuel so this may be the problem but I don't know. Nick installed a new -8AN feed line and a -6AN return line along with his billet in tank fuel system and a fuel pump (however I don't know which pump as it is not on the invoice, it just say's "Fuel Pump")
4) These pulls were not even close to WOT...it seems to be doing it earlier than WOT.
I am honestly very frustrated right now I never thought I would be dealing with something like this after sending the car to Nick.
achalmersman
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 28, 2012
Not not having wide band wont cause the problem by itself, its just another piece of information missing that can be used for troubleshooting. I believe the fuel pressure transducer signal wire is purple but check. I know you said its rising 1:1 but i would want to see a log showing it is indeed maintaining FP during the issue.
Not being WOT will mess with the way the chip works. It doesnt enter enrichment mode until a certain tps voltsge. Hopefully eric will chime in
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Not being WOT will mess with the way the chip works. It doesnt enter enrichment mode until a certain tps voltsge. Hopefully eric will chime in
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Did you have the accelerator to the floor during these runs?The first log the car just lunged and never dropped off because I got out of it. The second log it started to lunge and I stayed in the throttle and then it dropped off
Your IDC and RPM are all over the place during these events.
Start the engine then disconnect the cam sensor and drive it.
Did you have the accelerator to the floor during these runs?
Your IDC and RPM are all over the place during these events.
Start the engine then disconnect the cam sensor and drive it.
I didn't make it to WOT before it started surging on the first run so I backed out of it. On the second run I also didn't get to WOT before it completely shut down (didn't die but just lost all power) but you can see from the TPS numbers that I stayed in the throttle even after of fell off the cliff. The TPS numbers are probably all over the place because I am a little apprehensive...I don't want to blow another head gasket and have to go through all of that again. I am perfectly capable of it but damn it sucks to have to tear down a brand new motor!
Is your electrical connector disconnected from your transmission?I finally got it back together and got some logs...unfortunately it is still doing the same thing. I am now running the BCR8ES plugs as well and as we expected it didn't solve my problem however as a reminder I was running the TR6 plugs which is a resistor plug. It pulls hard and then just falls flat on its face...I am proof that you can't throw money at a problem and expect results.
Is your electrical connector disconnected from your transmission?
Yes
achalmersman
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 28, 2012
Do what Ttype 6 said and start engine and with it running unplug cam sensor and drive the car. If that doesn't show positive results I wouldnt drive it until I had FP at a min. Also, there shouldnt be a "didnt get to WOT". It should go from idle to 4.2 or whatever you set it to right away. It should go up as fast as it drops off when you lift lol. But i understand being reluctant.
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Do what Ttype 6 said and start engine and with it running unplug cam sensor and drive the car. If that doesn't show positive results I wouldnt drive it until I had FP at a min. Also, there shouldnt be a "didnt get to WOT". It should go from idle to 4.2 or whatever you set it to right away. It should go up as fast as it drops off when you lift lol. But i understand being reluctant.
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Do you think stabbing the throttle will show us more that might help point at something? I am just trying to learn...trust me I would LOVE to stab it and burn down the tires. This motor should be giving me around 600 HP but a Prius would beat me right now and that is NOT a cool thing!
achalmersman
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- May 28, 2012
No but I think the ECM needs to see WOT to enter WOT programmed parameters. Hopefully somebody like eric will explain what happens when your not at WOT. Im not saying keep your foot burried through thd problem. Im saying I would burry it until the problem happens and lift. I would also be logging fuel pressure. Get thst hooked up ASAP since it wont cost you any more $$$
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There's nothing wrong with your TPS numbers. IDC and RPM especially in the first log when you're at 2.99 volts TPS. The IDC changes a lot with just one advancement of a frame. The RPM changes as much as a 1,000 RPM while advancing just one frame.I didn't make it to WOT before it started surging on the first run so I backed out of it. On the second run I also didn't get to WOT before it completely shut down (didn't die but just lost all power) but you can see from the TPS numbers that I stayed in the throttle even after of fell off the cliff. The TPS numbers are probably all over the place because I am a little apprehensive...I don't want to blow another head gasket and have to go through all of that again. I am perfectly capable of it but damn it sucks to have to tear down a brand new motor!
It should run smooth as silk at all throttle openings. No need to go full throttle. It should make a lot of power at half throttle.No but I think the ECM needs to see WOT to enter WOT programmed parameters.
Don't go to full throttle.
No but I think the ECM needs to see WOT to enter WOT programmed parameters. Hopefully somebody like eric will explain what happens when your not at WOT. Im not saying keep your foot burried through thd problem. Im saying I would burry it until the problem happens and lift. I would also be logging fuel pressure. Get thst hooked up ASAP since it wont cost you any more $$$
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Yeah, I will hook up the FP first thing tomorrow. I just need to run a signal wire to the PL board right? Is there anything else I need to do in the software to recognize it or will it see it and pick it up?
The cam sensor is needed to start the engine. That's why you have to start the engine first before you disconnect it to test it or else it wouldn't start. When you disconnect it after starting the engine,all injectors will be commanded to fire at the same time instead of sequentially.I will have to do the Cam sensor test tomorrow however doesn't the system only use the cam sensor signal during startup?
achalmersman
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- May 28, 2012
Oh well mine doesnt lol. Half throttle on my car will do all kinds of turbo surging, lean, etc. Full throttle and it runs like a batt outta hell. Maybe I dont have the mid throttle blocks right, but i figured it was a byproduct of boost changing rapidly from surging etc. Guess I should work on that. When I was troubleshooting this issue I would go WOT but i was logging AF and FP 100% of the time. And my problem would not occur unless I was WOT.It should run smooth as silk at all throttle openings. No need to go full throttle. It should make a lot of power at half throttle.
Don't go to full throttle.
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The cam sensor is needed to start the engine. That's why you have to start the engine first before you disconnect it to test it or else it wouldn't start. When you disconnect it after starting the engine,all injectors will be commanded to fire at the same time instead of sequentially.
Oh ok, so the Cam Sensor does do something else after the motor starts...I was told that it is a useless signal after that. I have a Cas
Oh well mine doesnt lol. Half throttle on my car will do all kinds of turbo surging, lean, etc. Full throttle and it runs like a batt outta hell. Maybe I dont have the mid throttle blocks right, but i figured it was a byproduct of boost changing rapidly from surging etc. Guess I should work on that. When I was troubleshooting this issue I would go WOT but i was logging AF and FP 100% of the time. And my problem would not occur unless I was WOT.
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How can I tap my AF into the PL? I am getting that signal on the Scan Master so I know it is there
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