Either rips or slips- tv set wrong?

L

Low Budget

Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2002
My 200-4R will almost rip your head off your shoulders at anything from just above idle to 1/8 throttle.

Problem:
However, this is not the case when accelerating harder. The further down the pedal is to the floor for the 1/2 shift, the sloppier it is. A full throttle 1/2 shift yields a full fledged (feels like the trans is junk) slip shift. Any thoughts on what I'm looking at here? I'd like it to shift hard as I get into it, not when I'm just putting around. The slipping is my main concern though. I should add that while the 2/3 and 3/OD shifts are also less firm the closer to full throttle you are, they don't seem to be slipping like the 1/2 shift.

Basic info as I know it:
I have an 87 GN with the 200-4R. It has the brf valve body and correct governor. (The governor has had some weight added to allow lower shift points for daily driving.) This trans was totally rebuilt about 15,000 miles ago by Level 10. Not trying to bad mouth them, I just wanted you all to know it wasn't rebuilt by Joe Shmoe. The convertor is a 12" locker rebuilt and re-stalled to 2,800-3,000 by Pat's in Philly.

Thanks!
Jeff
 
Wow! That's a comprehensive resource! It tells me one thing for sure. If my troubles don't disappear after I follow the procedure for setting the tv cable, I'll need to seek professional help. Ha ha...not that kind of professional help. I'm afraid anything beyond a reset is too much for me to handle myself.

Seriously, thanks for the link. I've often wondered how the TV cable system worked. Hopefully I am just set wrong. I'll check it out Monday. If it's ok, I'd be interested in suggestions of a good shop within say 100 miles of Pottstown, PA. I'm tired of the long rides to Hamburg, NJ. Tired of the big money too, to be honest.

Thanks, Jeff
 
Foam on the stick?

Ok. I set the TV cable right. It was in too far. Now it's not so ugly at low throttle positions. Still turns the tires no problem with just a bit more gas.

I do have a problem yet though. Some shifts at heavy to full throttle are pretty firm, but some actually slip. 1/2 and 2/3 are each capable of this problem. I don't know why it's ok one time and bad the next. Hell, I don't know why it ever should do it for that matter.

In checking the fluid level, I'm having trouble seeing exactly what it is, because it's foamy. Instead of just smooth fluid on the stick, it's got lots of bubbles. I'm using mostly synthetic Mobil 1 fluid. I have about one quart of ATF part synthetic.
(I ran out of the Mobil 1)

Please advise.
 
level

Blown & Injected,
I let the car sit overnight and then ran it around town for a while. No hard driving. I just wanted to get it hot enough to check. No foam this time and level right at max on the stick.

I read some posts on this subject (foam/bubbles etc.) and am wondering if my situation fits in this mold. Can my intermittant slipping be just from sucking air under hard acceleration? What a pain in the butt if this is so. Why would GM make a car fast and not know this would be a problem. Why is it not a problem for all Turbo Regals? Do they put the pick-up in the front of the pan??

I also saw some talk of which dipstick is the right one. I have certainly never changed mine, but I can't be sure it hasn't been changed by anyone else. Mine has no holes in it. Is there a measurement for total length and distance from the end to the full mark someone can supply me? I'd like to know it's full before I try this one quart over cure I read about. If anyone can check on these measurements, please tell me from the seat under the grab handle to the tip of the stick, and from the tip of the stick to the full mark.
Thanks very much, Jeff
 
dipstick length

Most factory dipsticks are 1'' longer than their tubes. Of couse, the easiest way to check this is with the pan off. Maybe you know someone with a car like yours and you could check their fluid level with your dipstick. :)
 
dipstick length

My dipstick was ordered for a 1986 Monte Carlo with 200-4r.
The number stamped on it is 1257013. It is 29-1/4" from the tip to the seat in the cap. It is 1-3/4" from the tip to the full mark.
I measured three dipsticks and they were basically the same, but not identical. :)
 
Long overdue response.

I gave up and went to Dynotech. Eric got me straightened out. He did a partial rebuild for me. It gave me a consistancy I had been lacking for years and multiple rebuilds. I asked about the stick while I was there, and while I don't know what length it is, it's the right one according to him. Good enough for me. Good guy to deal with, I would recommend him to anyone with a 200-4r.

Jeff
 
what exactly did he do?? i subscribed to your thread a while ago because i have the same problem(hard half throttle shifts, but loose full throttle shifts, no slipping however). im interested to know. mine never slipped, but it didnt have a "hard" shift at full throttle
 
All I can tell you is what is on the bill. All the work was done with the trans in by the way. Hopefully the rest will make it a while longer.

Eric set it to shift firm, but not excessively so under light throttle. It does get snappier now as I get deeper into the throttle. I have not had this ever with this car. It was always the hardest it ever got at light throttle, and less as I got on it. That was backwards of what logic would dictate in my opinion.

He could have set it up to shift as hard as I wanted, but that neck snapping when I'm just trying to putt around gets old fast. It's hard on equipment too! Bottom line here is, it will most definitely turn the tires anywhere, and anytime I ask it to do so. The perfect balance.


These items were replaced:


New custom shift kit installed (It already had one, but not one he was comfortable with.)

New trans mount (no performance issue, I just needed one.)

Hi-flow lock-up solenoid (Mine looked old and was of unknown reliability, as it had not been in use in years.)

Custom 2nd apply pin

Billet Anchor pin

TV Linkage

Of course...new fluid, filter and gasket.


He spent quite a few hours checking and tweaking. There were adjustments made and clearances set during the last rebuild that just weren't right. Four seperate leaks were repaired as well.

I hope this helps answer your question.
Jeff
 
I'll go one better!

Here's a link to his website. Just click on the contact link from his homepage for the phone number.

http://www.dynotechperformance.com/


Where are you at that you say you're close to me? You don't have anything listed in your location spot. PM me if you're worried about everyone knowing. Anyway, I'd be happy to meet you and let you feel how mine shifts if you like. Let me know either way please.

Jeff
 
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