Durable Paint Job

[ksmmspt]

Hi,
I'm looking to get a show quality paint job that will also be very durable. I plan on driving the car occaisionally and possibly going down a track every once and again. What type of paint will be durable? Any suggestions that I need to tell the shop?
Thanks

 

[zam70]

Polyurethane is as good as it gets...and it isn't great.
If you're thinking of "rock chip" or "acid rain" proof, there is nothing that will shine good that will be able to hold up to them.

The toughest finish available is the current factory finishes. They use a polyester base and then bake it at HIGH temps (400ish -they can because they only have a shell). Extremely tough and shiny...unfortunately, it can't be done outside of the manufacturing facilities (as far as I know).

 

[G-boz]

I agree, urethane is a very durable paint. you can always add an extra coat or 2 of clear,for a more glossy finish. I went with Sikkens urethane on my car with 3 coats of clear and It looks great.

 

[Red Regal T]

Originally posted by zam70
Polyurethane is as good as it gets...and it isn't great.
If you're thinking of "rock chip" or "acid rain" proof, there is nothing that will shine good that will be able to hold up to them.

The toughest finish available is the current factory finishes. They use a polyester base and then bake it at HIGH temps (400ish -they can because they only have a shell). Extremely tough and shiny...unfortunately, it can't be done outside of the manufacturing facilities (as far as I know).

Scott......What is your shop's paint of choice (bc/cc) for a customer looking for a show job and would that be your personal choice?

 

[zam70]

We use Sikkens paint. It's what i used on my car and i personally think it is the best paint out there. BUT-
Most of the main brands are good...always use what your painter is familiar with, that's the most important part...use something YOUR painter is familiar with.

Contrary to popular belief, Extra coats of clear does not make paint shine better. The only exception is when the clear is wet sanded between each coat.
For durability, you want the paint as flexible as possible. This is achieved by having the paint as thin as possible. Unfortunately, clearcoat laid thin does not give much room for wetsand/buff (which is what will actually make it shine) It's all about texture or lack of texture. Just like metal, the less texture, the better the shine.

The secret to that "show car" shine is all in the prep and final sand/buff. I don't care if you're spraying Krylon or Sikkens, it will all shine. It's just a matter of how much work you want to put into it.

 

[Red Regal T]

Originally posted by zam70


Contrary to popular belief, Extra coats of clear does not make paint shine better. The only exception is when the clear is wet sanded between each coat.

I just wanted to address the part about sanding each coat. That wouldn't be the way to do it. I've sprayed on about a gallon of clear which is three or four wet coats. Allow to setup overnite. Then Block sand the car with 400 grit to make the surface flat. Then, shoot another gallon of clear. Allow a couple days to cure. Then wetsand to flatten it out again finishing up with no more coarse paper than 1200 grit. Polishes to fantastic finish.

 

[zam70]

Basically, that's what I meant...
most people would spray on a ton of clear, wet sand and buff with no recoat. For an everyday type of job, that's fine. For show - NOT.
What you're saying is exactly what I mean...I just didn't get into specifics.

 

[Red Regal T]

HEY SCOTT, NOT MY MEANING TO CORRECT WHAT YOU SAID. I SAW YOUR POST ABOUT GOING TO THE NATS. I'LL SEE YOU THERE. I'LL GET TO BG WEDNESDAY NITE AND WILL HAVE MY CAR PARKED ON MY VENDOR SPOT. STOP BY AND SAY HELLO.

 

[zam70]

You bet I will!
want to meet all you Buick fiends...Why do you think I'm going?
SEE YOU THERE!

 

[ksmmspt]

Thanks for the suggestions. I will talk to my shop and see what they recommend. I'll post back to get your input. Thanks a lot!!