John Larkin
Sublime Master of Turbology
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
I've seen folks post about using tinfoil (shiny side out). I've also seen a silver cloth used. Anyone know what that silver cloth is?
DS Cable shielding
- Thread starter John Larkin
- Start date
BoostKillsStres
TIRE-FRYER VIA HAIR-DRYER
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
It appears to be a braided stainless tubing type stuff.
Tin foil, tin foil! I had some EMI testing done at a lab in Seattle last year on a radar system..it was flunking the EMI radiative emissions portion of the test until we realized that about 8' of the power cable was inside the test cell and that it made a great antenna. 10 minutes and half a roll of Reynolds Wrap later, the RF spike was gone. The EMI lab keeps it on hand and the guy said it was good for 40 db drop. 
John Larkin
Sublime Master of Turbology
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Thanks guys! I will also use the Tuck-Tuck-and Fold method (that's TTF for you techies).
BoostKillsStres
TIRE-FRYER VIA HAIR-DRYER
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Make sure with whatever type of shielding your using that it makes good contact with the ecm case as you have to send the emi to ground somewhere as just wrapping the cable won't do squat.
FYI
FYI
BoostKillsStres,
I have had nothing but trouble with my DS, since I have gone to low ohm drivers in my ECM. Have sent the hardware to Chu, purchased updated software, and have shelded the cable with the wiring wrap that Chu sent me. I'm using a IBM thinkpad with windows 98. Can't race with DS on line - car pops - sets code - runs like POS. Unhook DS car hauls ass!! I'm not the only one with this issue, anyone have any suggestions???
Thanks - miss my tunning tool!!
I have had nothing but trouble with my DS, since I have gone to low ohm drivers in my ECM. Have sent the hardware to Chu, purchased updated software, and have shelded the cable with the wiring wrap that Chu sent me. I'm using a IBM thinkpad with windows 98. Can't race with DS on line - car pops - sets code - runs like POS. Unhook DS car hauls ass!! I'm not the only one with this issue, anyone have any suggestions???
Thanks - miss my tunning tool!!
BoostKillsStres
TIRE-FRYER VIA HAIR-DRYER
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Hi James,
I had the exact same issue for a long long time, went thru everything on the car trying to find that hiccup - pop - set code problem. I found the problem would happen with only the ribbon cable attached even w/o the hardware module on the other end so I knew that was the problem.
Tried super clean connection, spacing of cable connector, went to as short of a cable from Kent as possible. I'd never dealt with EMI before and wrapped the cable with foil hoping it would help...nope. I got the flexi shielding from Conleys and installed, still had the problem. Thought maybe my sig lighter power inverter might be doing it so I moved it as far away as possible, no help.
So I emailed kent and we went thru several things then he told me the shielding had to be grounded to dissapate the emi, cool, now I got it so I twisted a bunch of fibers at the ecm end of the ribbon cable and stuck them in a butt connector and ran a wire from there to the ecm, still had the problem, I told Kent and he said the amount of cable in the butt connector isn't enough and that I should make sure as much of the shielding as possible is touching the outside of the ecm so it will ground the EMI as good as possible thru the ecm case and into its ground connection
So far that has totally fixed my problem. I have the shielding running flat up against the back(non chip) side of the ecm and have two places where zip ties run totally around the ecm to help hold the shielding against it. I don't really want to use tape because of the heat of the ecm which will probly make it all sticky in a short time but that would make the ecm slide into the kick panel easier.
One other thing, I'd removed the chip panel for easier access and have now replaced it to make sure no EMI could get into the ecm that way.
Hope that helps, feel free to email me with anything else and I'll try to help.
I had the exact same issue for a long long time, went thru everything on the car trying to find that hiccup - pop - set code problem. I found the problem would happen with only the ribbon cable attached even w/o the hardware module on the other end so I knew that was the problem.
Tried super clean connection, spacing of cable connector, went to as short of a cable from Kent as possible. I'd never dealt with EMI before and wrapped the cable with foil hoping it would help...nope. I got the flexi shielding from Conleys and installed, still had the problem. Thought maybe my sig lighter power inverter might be doing it so I moved it as far away as possible, no help.
So I emailed kent and we went thru several things then he told me the shielding had to be grounded to dissapate the emi, cool, now I got it so I twisted a bunch of fibers at the ecm end of the ribbon cable and stuck them in a butt connector and ran a wire from there to the ecm, still had the problem, I told Kent and he said the amount of cable in the butt connector isn't enough and that I should make sure as much of the shielding as possible is touching the outside of the ecm so it will ground the EMI as good as possible thru the ecm case and into its ground connection
So far that has totally fixed my problem. I have the shielding running flat up against the back(non chip) side of the ecm and have two places where zip ties run totally around the ecm to help hold the shielding against it. I don't really want to use tape because of the heat of the ecm which will probly make it all sticky in a short time but that would make the ecm slide into the kick panel easier.
One other thing, I'd removed the chip panel for easier access and have now replaced it to make sure no EMI could get into the ecm that way.
Hope that helps, feel free to email me with anything else and I'll try to help.
BoostKillsStres
TIRE-FRYER VIA HAIR-DRYER
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
True, automatic WB is a nice way to go, I've got a standalone WB on my car and don't even look at the stock o2's anymore as there so far off. They're reporting .720's and the WB is showing 11.2:1 thru 3rd gear. A little rich I know, still working on my chips to slowly bring it a little leaner but I'm right at 11.7:1 in 1st and 2nd.
On the fly WB, as I said, is nice but building the DIY WB and then using the boost harness to log WB into DS once you get that figured out then export the data and graph the A/F vs. RPM and provide that to your chip vendor for fuel tweaks would save $$. Then once the entire fuel curve is looking good and if you have a BLM lock in your chip you can adjust FP for final max MPH at the track and fine tune.
Just MHO.
HTH
On the fly WB, as I said, is nice but building the DIY WB and then using the boost harness to log WB into DS once you get that figured out then export the data and graph the A/F vs. RPM and provide that to your chip vendor for fuel tweaks would save $$. Then once the entire fuel curve is looking good and if you have a BLM lock in your chip you can adjust FP for final max MPH at the track and fine tune.
Just MHO.
HTH
John Larkin
Sublime Master of Turbology
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Good info. What is that shielding made of? I was hoping to get it locally like at a fabric shop.
BoostKillsStres
TIRE-FRYER VIA HAIR-DRYER
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
If you have a DS unit you can call Conleys and they will send you some just make sure of the length. It appears to be braided stainless in the shape of a tube which can be pulled over the ribbon cable and then flattened since its like a metal cloth.
John Larkin
Sublime Master of Turbology
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Got some shielding from Janace. Looks bulletproof! When I opened the box I thought it was a ground strap. Then I figured it out. Note to file: When having a conversation with folks from Houston, mentioning Neal Whyte's name can cause you to actually pay extra!
I had the same problem and it cost me several head gaskets. Dont keep beating on it if it pops or acts funny! Fix it! I tried the shield from Conley's and it made no difference on my car. Kent Chu ended up sending me a shorter shielded cable and it works great now.
Evan,
Don't worry about it. As you are still using high ohm drivers, I bet you will not have a problem. IMHO it's the low ohm drivers that create too much EMI for the system. Hook that DS up, it's the best tunning tool you can get for your application.
Good Luck
Don't worry about it. As you are still using high ohm drivers, I bet you will not have a problem. IMHO it's the low ohm drivers that create too much EMI for the system. Hook that DS up, it's the best tunning tool you can get for your application.
Good Luck
BoostKillsStres,
Grounded the cable, test results look good so far. In both street 17lbs & race trim 23lbs of boost car has run really good, no backfire or code. In fact the car is running with 0 KR... Will be taking car to the track this month for that 12-15lb transbrake launch, then we will know for sure!!!
thanks a lot
Grounded the cable, test results look good so far. In both street 17lbs & race trim 23lbs of boost car has run really good, no backfire or code. In fact the car is running with 0 KR...
Will be taking car to the track this month for that 12-15lb transbrake launch, then we will know for sure!!!thanks a lot
