Drum Brakes
- Thread starter Knux65
- Start date
TexasT
Texas, Where are you from
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2002
X2 on the one side at a time. Also you might get the tool that installs and removes the springs from their post. Just makes things easier, or at least it does for me.
Don't be skeered, nothing too much under there. Cleanliness, a pic or two before disassembly wouldn't hurt, and be sure to understand the adjusters. I disassemble clean and put some grease under the cap and never seize on the threads. Don't get your grreasy mitts on the shoe surface. You might pick up two sets and use the long shoes through out if you drag race. Gives more holding power at the line.
Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
Don't be skeered, nothing too much under there. Cleanliness, a pic or two before disassembly wouldn't hurt, and be sure to understand the adjusters. I disassemble clean and put some grease under the cap and never seize on the threads. Don't get your grreasy mitts on the shoe surface. You might pick up two sets and use the long shoes through out if you drag race. Gives more holding power at the line.
Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
drum brakes a snap to replace. All the part stores sell the 3 tools you need. The spring tool and the shoe spring Hold down remover/installer and the adjuster. You can get by without the tools but its easier and safer with the tools. A .before Picture good Idea for first timers be sure to lube the adjuster and you will need to do an pre adjustment before putting the wheel on. Adjust until drum goes on a bit snug and you can spin it with just a bit of drag. Aways good idea to pump brakes a few times after you think you are adusted and recheck for drag as the shoes will always move to the center after a brake pump. There is an access on the back of the drum to adjust if the wheel is on for final adjustment.
Howling Mad
Active Member
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2010
Clean the old parts before the taking them off then take a picture, the springs are color coordinated its not as hard as people make it out to be.
Never hurts to ask questions. Lots of other videos on line to look at too. Get the hardware kit and replace ALL the springs. I never reuse any of the old hardware. The harware kit is inexpensive so no need to reuse the old stuff.
Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
Unless your backing plates are warped, there's no reason to replace them. Just put a smear of grease on the bosses the shoes ride on. Also what might be easier is to assemble the shoes with adjuster and springs on the bench and then "spread" them over the axle and put the hold down springs (round ones) on and then the long springs last. You might consider replacing the rubber brake line as it's 27 plus years old. Also check out the sticky "bleeding the powermaster" Cheers!
Thanks for the tips. This has actually been a snowball effect from my switch to vacuum. At first I wanted the natural cast look. 2 years later, I'm seeing surface rust, so I decide to pull it and paint the booster black. As I'm bleeding the brakes, I notice the leaking drum. SSBC calipers are next along with braided lines. I just can't decide if I want the black or natural calipers :/
you'll find it a cinch by starting with the ebrake and shoes first and then you'll see its just like a puzzle fitting the pieces in pushing and pulling here and there. no bench reqd. new hardware kit might be a good idea or new pins the least. gl.
Update: Everything is assembled, adjusted, bled, and running. I definitely feel more bite from the rear. The second side was a cake walk after fighting with the first. The wheel cylinder and it's... Retaining ring... Were a huge pain. I want to thank all those that helped. And for future searchers, I dug this up
Similar threads
