Drop in radiator advice...

Usually they're placed in front of the rad, so directly in the airflow...thus it should be at least as efficient as (or better than) the built-in unit, I would guess. As long as the fittings/hoses were the same diameter as stock.
Looking at this cooler on the Summit site and it specifically says it is a transmission oil cooler; doesn't say engine oil. Given all that has been said about one vs the other, restrictions, etc. I'm wondering if this is a good one for engine oil. The inlet/outlet size is the same (1/2" NPT) as the B&M "Engine Oil" cooler listed on the gnttype write up.
What are the dimensions of the 2 coolers? Surface area plays a part in cooling effectiveness...it looks like you and I will be doing a similar rad upgrade in the near future. :)
 
While I can't personally answer that, in my reading up on radiators on this forum, someone else mentioned the built-in oil cooler failing in his stock rad. That would be potentially a lot more disastrous than an external cooler failing, because you're now not just replacing a $50 3rd-party cooler, you're replacing the whole rad. I'm pretty sure that any external oil cooler will work better than the in-tank one.

The built in cooler failing is a bitch as it took me twenty flushes to get the oil out of the block and also took out the heater core in the process. I had a Gbody rad do that to me, not a stock rad. I now have an ALRADCO in the car and have every confidence in that rad as it's a much better quality product over the Gbody junk rad that I took out.

I could post pics to show the differences between the two and it would be a no brainer in which one to buy. I only wish that I had the opportunity to get the ALRADCO first, but the Gbody was installed at someones recommendation and I let them.

The reason I don't use a dedicated oil cooler is simply because of the extra plumbing and added lines needed which would also potentially be another failing point, which happens more often than an in tank cooler failure. I also have no room for one because of the F/M cooler on the car.
 
Looking at this cooler on the Summit site and it specifically says it is a transmission oil cooler; doesn't say engine oil. Given all that has been said about one vs the other, restrictions, etc. I'm wondering if this is a good one for engine oil. The inlet/outlet size is the same (1/2" NPT) as the B&M "Engine Oil" cooler listed on the gnttype write up.

I may have posted the wrong cooler part # and am sorry. I was trying to show you the type of cooler to get. Avoid the tube/fin style and get the plate style cooler for efficiency and longevity.
 
Although bar and plate style coolers are more efficient, they tend to add a lot of restriction. For the purpose of trans coolers, could aggravate thrust bearing failures. For engine cooler, well do you really want a reduction in oil pressure ?

I would gladly give up a little efficiency and go with a tube and fin.

AG.
 
I may have posted the wrong cooler part # and am sorry. I was trying to show you the type of cooler to get. Avoid the tube/fin style and get the plate style cooler for efficiency and longevity.
10-4, I just bought this one
B&M Engine oil cooler (Summit Racing part # 70273
Hope it is OK.
 
Although bar and plate style coolers are more efficient, they tend to add a lot of restriction. For the purpose of trans coolers, could aggravate thrust bearing failures. For engine cooler, well do you really want a reduction in oil pressure ?

I would gladly give up a little efficiency and go with a tube and fin.

AG.

That is a loaded answer. You are correct that the tube and fin style has less pressure drop if you compared two coolers that are the same size.

If you size a stacked plate or plate/fin style cooler properly sized for your application you could have less pressure drop and be equal or close to a tube and fin style with the benefit of a lot higher efficiency.

What type of coolers are all the OEM suppliers putting on high performance cars and HD trucks??? Stacked plate/tube fin designs.

My suburban with a factory trans cooler runs at 140* normal and 160*/180* towing heavy. Both oil and trans are stacked plate style coolers.

I understand where you are coming from in why you prefer tube and fin, but to be effective they have to be huge to make a difference.

I know that in tank coolers are marginal at best and would consider tube fin style in the same class, [better than nothing] and if I didn't change my oil every 3 thousand miles or less I would step up to an aftermarket oil cooler like I have on my trans.

The only important thing regardless of which style you choose is that it will keep your oil temps in the optimum range of 180*/200* for longer service life of the engine components and consistent oil pressure.

Lastly, none of these coolers will drop your oil pressure.

Are you saying people who don't run a cooler at all and have eliminated the sandwich adapter lose oil pressure??
 
Guys, I spent some of my evening getting my radiator ready to be pulled...disconnected the stock tranny cooler lines & oil cooler hoses. One thing struck me as odd: the stock oil cooler hoses connect to what you'd normally expect to be the tranny cooler inlet/outlet on an F-body or aftermarket aluminum radiator, while the stock tranny cooler lines & fittings both run up near the top of the rad, and wrap around to connect at the front of the rad on the passenger side.

I guess my question would be, if buying an F-body or aftermarket rad with tranny cooler, do I need to re-route the stock tranny cooler lines to the rad's tranny cooler inlet/outlet (instead of connecting the oil cooler hoses there, as they were with the stock rad), and run new oil cooler hoses around to the front of the rad to an aftermarket oil cooler? Is that what most people are doing, who aren't able to afford an expensive exact-fit rad?
 
If you look closely at your tranny lines there's a pair of couplers that extend them to the front of the radiator. Take them off and you can either run them into the Fbody unit, or just extend them to the front for the external.
 
I'm planning to buy a rad (probably an all-aluminum F-body aftermarket one) with the same upper & lower rad hose outlet sizes, with the 2 internal tranny cooler fittings, and connect the car's tranny cooler lines into them...then mount an external oil cooler and re-route the oil cooler lines around to the front of the rad into the external oil cooler. That should cool as effectively as the OEM rad with both tranny cooler & oil cooler built-in, wouldn't it?
 
Yes. $13 at Alliance hose and tube in GSO NC on my home from work just now.
The hose & 4 fittings cost me about $20. I have a stupid question now: the brass fittings came with yellow plastic rings. Are those necessary or should they be removed before pressing on the hose? They pop on/off quite easily so I wonder if they're just protective rings...
OilCoolerWithFittings.JPG
 
To me, Looks like something that could stay if you like or throw away,either way,
True...since they pop off quite easily, I'm not sure what purpose they serve...all 4 fittings have those plastic rings, with the "open" end facing towards the barbed ends of the fittings.
 
There is an aluminum radiator just like the F-body except that it has a built-in engine oil cooler (in addition to the tranny oil cooler). However, the EOC is on the drivers side. You will need longer hoses....

Application is 89 Buick Century with 2.8L and engine oil cooler or 1985 Century w/ diesel.

PRO 8011272 rockauto $185
ACDelco 20903
GM 52477477 $171 finditparts.com
GM 3093505
Spectra-Premium CU1272
Visteon 9218

It is 1-row aluminum tubes, slightlly thicker core at 1-5/8"
 
That looks like it would work, I researched it even has the same core depth (1-1/4"). I think the EOC on the driver's side, fan side of the rad could present some problems with the EOC lines. You'd have to route them somehow across the top or beneath the electric fan, then up to the fittings. You'd need REALLY long hoses if you decided to go from the stock location, all the way across the front of the rad/intercooler, then make a very sharp bend to connect to the front EOC fittings...that would be a b~tch to do, either way. I think doing an external oil cooler mounted in front of the intercooler (requires the grille removal) still makes the most sense, if you're on a budget.
 
Update: Man, I hate roadblocks. I removed the outer fittings from the oil cooler with 15/16" and 20mm wrenches as described in detail in the article on GNTType.org (had to buy a 20mm wrench because none of the service techs where I work had one--and these guys have tens of thousands of dollars in their tool-chests)...link here:

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/airconditioning/fbodyrad.html

I bought the 2 pairs of Aeroquip fittings as per the article. One pair screwed into the B & M #70273 cooler perfectly. However, when I removed the aforementioned fittings from the cooler with the 20mm wrench, the pair of fittings I bought were nowhere even close to fitting the larger adapter; they were way too small. So either the place where I bought the fittings got something wrong, or my car is different. o_O

Regarding the 2 lengths of 5/16" steel line attached to the stock rad with the couplers that mate to the tranny cooler lines, I was planning to remove those and use a pipe bender to re-bend them to be able to reach the existing tranny cooler lines. However, those fittings are some weird size. Both 1/2" and 13mm wrenches had a bit too much play, and a 12mm wrench wouldn't fit. So, I ended up rounding both trying to unscrew them at the 90-degree adapters. :mad: I ended up unscrewing the 90-degree adapters instead and cut off the weird-sized rounded fittings. I'll have to buy more, slide them on and flare the pipe ends.

Other than that, things are going well. :rolleyes:
 
Get yourself a couple sets of flare nut wrenches, metric and English, they usually work better. :cool:

Or make your own by ruining errrr notching a box wrench to just fit over the tube while still retaining most of the box end. :p
 
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