and.. does it need to be welded? What am I saying... of course it does. Well done on not breaking anything.Decided to remove the driver's side header today. I was afraid, I admit that. Thought I would break a bolt off! But I took my time and with the help of penetrating oil, they all came out very easy. I used my Sears gearwrench pass through socket set.
Thanks. Saving some money and get some headers. What do you recommend?
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and you should be good to go for a while.
Key here. How often do you want to do this?
I have 3 sets of stock headers. 2 have been welded, and 1 has cracked a 2nd time. 1 just came off of my car. It's cracked so bad, it's junk...
I just ordered a replacement from Nick Micale @ AZ GN. I then had both sides coated, along w/ the x over and dp.
If you are doing aftermkt headers, there's a few threads on the chinese junk vs T/A...
If you are only producing 10# of boost, there are a few areas I would check for starters. I can't even say there is a most obvious starting point since I cannot see the engine. But I can tell you vacuum leaks will rob you of boost as will the waste gate. If your vacuum lines are all original, chances are you have a leak of some sort, I swapped ALL of my vacuum lines (I had a bad vacuum block as well). And my engine was clean as a whistle, NEVER would have guessed it had a problem. There is a vacuum line from the waste gate that joins a "T" that was also cracked on mine.I did have my stock re welded and I put it back on the same day. I'm still only seeing 10 psi boost. My car is stock. What do I look for now? Passenger side header, vacuum lines?
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The vacuum lines are still stock. I plan to change them and was trying to look up the correct sizes without taking them all off and going to the parts store. I have an adjustable waste gate that I also plan to put on once i pin point my problem. I haven't seen 16 in a few months. The car has been sitting up. Pressed for time but need to get my TR BACK UP AND RUNNING.
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