DP Hitting Control Arm Question

Turbo6Smackdown

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2005
I have an older TH style 3" dp, that appears to be slightly hitting the control arm. Control arm and it's bushings are stock from 87, but I have a poly driver's side motor mount, and RJC's L shaped engine brace on as well. How is my DP slapping my control arms? Or is my engine not moving, but my control arms going up and hitting it...
 
I had the same problem, try loosening the bolts on the DP and rotating/shifting it slightly to give a little more clearance. It worked for me but I just run an open DP so it rotated with no problem...
 
Yours rotated? I don't see mine rotating even a tad but I'll sure try! MaDeuce eh? You like shootin' the 50 cal?
 
Yours rotated? I don't see mine rotating even a tad but I'll sure try! MaDeuce eh? You like shootin' the 50 cal?
 
A arm bushing toast.
Pass side mtr mt gone soft, engine drooping to that side.
If the dp doesn't rotate, take it off, elongate the holes a tad. Doesn't take much
Turbo twisted a bit c'clock wise?
Knocking on the dp is a good way to test the knock sensor sensitivity.:D
Ft x member "caved in"? A check on a ft end alignment machine can help id this. That's where offset upper a arm shafts come into play.
 
A arm bushing toast.
Pass side mtr mt gone soft, engine drooping to that side.
If the dp doesn't rotate, take it off, elongate the holes a tad. Doesn't take much
Turbo twisted a bit c'clock wise?
Knocking on the dp is a good way to test the knock sensor sensitivity.:D
Ft x member "caved in"? A check on a ft end alignment machine can help id this. That's where offset upper a arm shafts come into play.

"Ft x member"? Is that front cross member? And I was looking at the turbo, I don't have a choice how it's clocked because it's bolted to header. Not sure it has any room to move? Also, what's your opinion on the ESC module? When they fail, do they fail towards more sensitivity, or less.
And passenger side motor mount. Didn't think about that one lol. Can it droop that much?
And how does the A arm bushings failing make the DP closer? Would it be further?
 
Ft x is the cross member...They do sag in towards the engine.
The turbo studs/holes in the header have some slop in them. That's what I meant by clocking the turbo.
A arm bushing gets cooked by the dp heat, and will move in and up at the back bushing. 30 yrs of hi temp, and they are toast.
 
I see.. VERY good information. I will certainly give that area a lot more attn. now. Thank you sir! :)

Oh yea, what about the ESC module? Anything on that?
 
I see.. VERY good information. I will certainly give that area a lot more attn. now. Thank you sir! :)

Oh yea, what about the ESC module? Anything on that?
 
Does your car sit lower than stock. Typically the control arm rotates upward under heavy breaking or when the tire is forced upward because of a big bump in the road. It's the control arm running into the downpipe,not the other way around.
 
My car sits at the factory ride height.

I can see that totally. Though that's never my problem. I get the knock when I'm at a red light and accelerate away. The KR rise rate matches my RPM rate... So if anything my tire's coming AWAY from my DP right? What about that ESC module? You think that could be the culprit?
 
Check the torque on the knock sensor. Should be 14#/ft.
If the a arm bushing is shot, acceleration will raise the chassis in relation to the wheel. However, acceleration also tends to push the a arm toward the rear of the car. That, along w/ a sloppy bushing, pushes the a arm rear corner back, in the direction of the dp.

It's not rocket science to check the bushings.
1.A visual is a start. Appear the arm is not centered on the shaft?
2.Jack it up a bit, take a look.
3.Tires wearing in an odd pattern?
4.Take it to a ft end shop.
 
Top