Downpipe question
- Thread starter Kovmat
- Start date
XxDarkSidexX
Banned
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2002
yea it looks china made like a gbodies stuff
when I got mine, my flange wasn't flat either. I had to have it milled, then I ran a file over it and made sure it was flat. then I drilled out the 4 bolt holes just a tad and force bended it a little to install it without hitting the frame. simple but time consuming.....worth it? FAWK YEA!
DS
when I got mine, my flange wasn't flat either. I had to have it milled, then I ran a file over it and made sure it was flat. then I drilled out the 4 bolt holes just a tad and force bended it a little to install it without hitting the frame. simple but time consuming.....worth it? FAWK YEA!
DS
BREAKIN IT
Member
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2002
Take note when installed, The puck may not cover the hole. You will have a hard time building boost. I had to cut mine apart and reweld it to get it right, then pin the downpipe to the exhaust housing to make sure nothing could move. Good luck!
Guys, thanks for the replies. I did not get it from Gbodyparts. I am not going to say just yet where I got. I have a call into them and want to hear what they have to say before I give them any bad publicity.
The only thing I will say is that I did a lot of research on this site and picked what I thought was one of the more reputable suppliers. I am pretty sure I asked if it was made in China and they said no.
The only thing I will say is that I did a lot of research on this site and picked what I thought was one of the more reputable suppliers. I am pretty sure I asked if it was made in China and they said no.
Actually, the puck should have the ability to swing in far enough to protrude a little like what you're seeing there. Think about how NOT tight the seal would be if it only came even with the flange, or even worse, not quite even with the flange??
You'll notice the puck is hinged its self, so that if you push it down even with the flange it still has the ability to remain parallel with the flange.
All downpipes of this design should have the ability for the puck to protrude a little just like that.
What do you mean the puck wont close all the way? Isn't the puck its self hinged where it mounts? It should swivel a little.
Now, as far as the flange being flat, well that's a different issue, that may need attention.
I run a THDP, I've had it off quite a few times lately for various resons. You should see how far the puck can protrude on a good high quality pipe like this one!
You just need to make sure the puck is large enough to cover the hole, and allows for some "hole massaging" in case you need to increase the hole size for better boost control.
Smear some grease or something similar on the puck face, test fit the pipe, notice the pattern left on the turbine housing after removal.
You'll notice the puck is hinged its self, so that if you push it down even with the flange it still has the ability to remain parallel with the flange.
All downpipes of this design should have the ability for the puck to protrude a little just like that.
What do you mean the puck wont close all the way? Isn't the puck its self hinged where it mounts? It should swivel a little.
Now, as far as the flange being flat, well that's a different issue, that may need attention.
I run a THDP, I've had it off quite a few times lately for various resons. You should see how far the puck can protrude on a good high quality pipe like this one!
You just need to make sure the puck is large enough to cover the hole, and allows for some "hole massaging" in case you need to increase the hole size for better boost control.
Smear some grease or something similar on the puck face, test fit the pipe, notice the pattern left on the turbine housing after removal.
Project TNX
Active Member
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2006
The puck itself spins on the lever like a wheel on an axel. However, if I install the pipe on the turbo without a gasket this is what happens. In the picture, the left side of the puck hits and will not close all the way. 
If I add these shimms, they are about 1/16 th thick, it will now close all the way. That is why I asked about the Gasket. The pipe did not come with a gasket so I was assuming it did not need one. (I know never assume anything)
However, see last picture. as you can see the flange needs about 1/16 off of it to make it flat, so if I do that I lose the thickness of the Gasket and will have an interference problem again. Of course, since I don't have a gasket, I don't know how thick it really is. To make it work right it would need to be about 1/8. Seems a bit thick for a gasket.
What do you guys think I should do?
If I add these shimms, they are about 1/16 th thick, it will now close all the way. That is why I asked about the Gasket. The pipe did not come with a gasket so I was assuming it did not need one. (I know never assume anything)
However, see last picture. as you can see the flange needs about 1/16 off of it to make it flat, so if I do that I lose the thickness of the Gasket and will have an interference problem again. Of course, since I don't have a gasket, I don't know how thick it really is. To make it work right it would need to be about 1/8. Seems a bit thick for a gasket.
What do you guys think I should do?
turbofish38
Le Pétomane
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2002
Is it hanging up on the elbow? What's the cause of why it isn't rocking?
I have that same problem with the XL puck I put in my ancient BGC cast elbow. Nothing a little session with the Dremel didn't fix anyway.
FU to all of you trying to turn this into a Vendors bashing thread.
I have that same problem with the XL puck I put in my ancient BGC cast elbow. Nothing a little session with the Dremel didn't fix anyway.
FU to all of you trying to turn this into a Vendors bashing thread.
It does rock a little, but not quite as much as the stock one. It would be hard to quantify this but it appears that there is not as much play as the stock one.
The puck in the stock elbow does not protrude at all past the housing, however, I don't think it was designed to be used with a gasket.
I would really like to know from you guys that are using these TH style pipes if you are using gaskets with them.
The puck in the stock elbow does not protrude at all past the housing, however, I don't think it was designed to be used with a gasket.
I would really like to know from you guys that are using these TH style pipes if you are using gaskets with them.
You never bought a thing from me. If you get something from me when you open it'll be a pile of dog shyt.
No it is not one of my pipes. If you had any experience of what you were talking about you would realize some flanges do warp when welding stainless. It is the nature of stainless.
Kovmat That is excessive on the flange warping.
Dave is correct in stating the puck should be able to seal past the flange.
I don't think a gasket will seal it totally flat. Options would be to send it back & get it replaced.If your in a hurry try & get it plained down so it is usable.
Keep in mind as well it just needs to seal tightly to the turbo. If the end is curled slightly it will still seal.
I do get amused when people can look at a stainless steel flange & say yeah that is China.
I'm sure there are enough people on this board who have bought down pipes that if they didn't ship from here they shipped from our manufacturer.Their return address doesn't say China. Gaskets & hardware come with our units.
Most Venders These Days Are Supplying Products From China.
Some Just Wont Admit It. It Really Doesnt Matter Anymore As Long As The Product Works Correctly.even The Clothes On Our Backs Is China.i Suggested It Was A China Made Because I Had The Same Problem And It Looked Exactly The Same Down To The Weld Of The Puck.
Some Just Wont Admit It. It Really Doesnt Matter Anymore As Long As The Product Works Correctly.even The Clothes On Our Backs Is China.i Suggested It Was A China Made Because I Had The Same Problem And It Looked Exactly The Same Down To The Weld Of The Puck.
Gasket
RJC makes some very nice gaskets out of a "thicker" mil spec laminate that can withstand over 1840 degrees. I know they make one for a an external wastegated DP. They are good guys give em' a call they may have a gasket that will work for your situation.
RJC makes some very nice gaskets out of a "thicker" mil spec laminate that can withstand over 1840 degrees. I know they make one for a an external wastegated DP. They are good guys give em' a call they may have a gasket that will work for your situation.
Similar threads
