Could this be reason of misfire/rough idle???
- Thread starter 84GNv6
- Start date
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
1. Looks to me like the module potting material is melted out, and running down the sides....Fatal.
2. When replacing the wires, plugs, use di-electric grease on all connections.
3. If you don't know the ins/outs of these cars, find someone that does, and learn from them. Your GN "experience" will have a much higher chance of being a success.
2. When replacing the wires, plugs, use di-electric grease on all connections.
3. If you don't know the ins/outs of these cars, find someone that does, and learn from them. Your GN "experience" will have a much higher chance of being a success.
Squid4life
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
Pul that plug wire off with it running. If no change in rpm, idle, that could be it. Do it with each wire to isolate which cyl has the miss.
I wouldn't pull them off with it running, I never liked that technique.
But, pull them one at a time and look for rust/corrosion of the coil terminals. If there is any, then you can clean it but it will come back. You should just replace those wires. Kirbans, or BlackGN1 on the board here both make good wires.
Bob
But, pull them one at a time and look for rust/corrosion of the coil terminals. If there is any, then you can clean it but it will come back. You should just replace those wires. Kirbans, or BlackGN1 on the board here both make good wires.
Bob
I don't have a way to test the spark with the engine running. But pulling the wire off the tower while running forces the spark to crossfire to the mounting bolt, which is not good for the longevity of the coil. Poking holes in the insulation is going to mess with the high voltage breakover capability of the wires. Using a test light on a circuit that has 30,000 volt spikes in it is a pretty rough way to test this anyway.
The stock ignition is a reasonable performer when in top condition. Just maintaining the parts is the first step. Corroded/rusty coil terminals is a symptom that the wires are in need of replacement, and perhaps the coil as well.
What the OP should do is remove the wires one at a time and clean and inspect them. But for a rough idle he also needs to look into vacuum leaks, BLM issues, injector issues, etc.
The RTV on that one wire means that there are probably other issues going on with them and replacing them is a good idea.
Bob
The stock ignition is a reasonable performer when in top condition. Just maintaining the parts is the first step. Corroded/rusty coil terminals is a symptom that the wires are in need of replacement, and perhaps the coil as well.
What the OP should do is remove the wires one at a time and clean and inspect them. But for a rough idle he also needs to look into vacuum leaks, BLM issues, injector issues, etc.
The RTV on that one wire means that there are probably other issues going on with them and replacing them is a good idea.
Bob
No on the plugs use only copper core regular plugs,wires are fine. Agian as stated get a friend that know these cars they are regular cars you will be better off and so will the car.
turbofabricator
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2004
Where are you located? That will help getting you with someone that can really help.
OH....Come on......30,000 volts will "LEARN YA!"
Until you get hit with a spark a time or two, you just haven't lived yet. No it won't kill you, either. (unless you have a pace maker) but OH MAN!!!! does it feel good! Ever been hit by an MSD ignition??? That'll WAKE you up better than a Quad Espresso/ Red Bull from Starbucks!
OH....Come on......30,000 volts will "LEARN YA!"
Until you get hit with a spark a time or two, you just haven't lived yet. No it won't kill you, either. (unless you have a pace maker) but OH MAN!!!! does it feel good! Ever been hit by an MSD ignition??? That'll WAKE you up better than a Quad Espresso/ Red Bull from Starbucks!
turbodave231
Moderator
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Bob is giving you great advice: clean and replace and components that look nasty! If you still have issues, here are a couple of time tested tips the help you track down the cause of a miss:
To help you figure out your misfire, here are a couple of safe and effective ways to short out cylinders with the engine running:
1. With the IAC unplugged, Unplug one injector at a time and listen. This kills the fuel and the cylinder goes dead.
2. Install 6 1" pieces of vacuum hose between the coil tower and the wire boot. With a test light connected to ground, touch one piece of vacuum hose at a time. The vacuum hose is only mildly conductive and will not miss until you provide an easier path to ground (through the test light).
Any cylinder that does not drop rpm is your problem cylinder. If you run a compression check or leakdown test, start on these cylinders first.
To help you figure out your misfire, here are a couple of safe and effective ways to short out cylinders with the engine running:
1. With the IAC unplugged, Unplug one injector at a time and listen. This kills the fuel and the cylinder goes dead.
2. Install 6 1" pieces of vacuum hose between the coil tower and the wire boot. With a test light connected to ground, touch one piece of vacuum hose at a time. The vacuum hose is only mildly conductive and will not miss until you provide an easier path to ground (through the test light).
Any cylinder that does not drop rpm is your problem cylinder. If you run a compression check or leakdown test, start on these cylinders first.
DailyDrifter
The Slow and the Curious
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2007
You could also have someone mist water over the wires while you power brake it a little and put a load on the engine.
