kirban 2 cents worth
My son has run his own body shop business since basically getting out of high school and has done several full paints on GNs as you can imagine being my son.
His prices start at around ten grand as a full time shop. Lots of the advice stated earlier in this thread is good obviousily the more ground work you do in advance the better at saving labor rates and keeping the correct screws to go back in the correct locations and not getitng lost etc. .
Black is a tough color to lay down as every flaw is magnified that is missed in the prep work.
For sure both mirrors need to come off meaning remove the door panels. Otherwise the paint will feel roof behind the mirror shells.
Same goes for the quarter windows which means now you have removed the inside rear trim panels.
Another key thing is to make sure whoever does the work stays on the job the longer your car sits half way done the more paint fumes and dust your interior takes in. Make sure you and the shop you are using is on the same page for what you want. Example in door jamb areas you want a tape line rather than overspray.
Rear spoiler remove some of the inner studs require special socket swivals to properly get. Personally I would gut as much as the interior as possible less chance of something happening to it.
Leave all the emblems off at least 2-3 weeks after you get the car back so paint can bake and so body shop don't inadvertently place emblems in the wrong positon.
For further advice as to what paint is the best or works the best etc my sons email is
turbobuicks@epix.net
Make sure body shop realizes you want to retain the factory chip guard across the bottom of the sides of the car.
Bare metal all around assures you that nothing lies underneath that could pose a problem later on.
I am far from an expert this info is based on what I have seen my son do over the years.
denniskirban@yahoo.com
