If you’ve installed coil overs on the front and made any adjustments, I’d recommend you getting a front end wheel alignment ASAP. Lowering your front end will most likely result in toe out which will wear out your front tires quickly
If you’ve installed coil overs on the front and made any adjustments, I’d recommend you getting a front end wheel alignment ASAP. Lowering your front end will most likely result in toe out which will wear out your front tires quickly
Like stated above all that really matters is if you like it but sounds like you might me having second thoughts if your asking the question. I give it a thumbs up especially with the 18" wheels but If it was my car I would like it about 1/2" higher
What rate are the springs? With that much drop, you'll want at least 700lb/in, maybe 800 to keep the tires from contacting the fenderwells under hard braking.
They are modified in the back and a little in the front for turning clearance but they do have a hell of a lot more room at the top for bump clearance too.
I probably should have told you at the beginning of this thread that most of the components used on the GNX were not designed or engineered on the computer or back in the old days on the drafting board. This program was done mainly in the process called reverse engineering. We would make master parts, have them shipped to our supplier and then have them mass produced. This was not the case for all the parts but for most.
The front wheel well housing is one of the parts I am most proud :biggrin: to have worked on, and some of you probably do not know it exists. This part is needed based on the offset of the wheels and tires that was deemed necessary to create the proper appearance of the vehicle. This new part was also needed because when you put the wheel assembly through its paces ( a jounce study) it hit :frown: the original outer wheel housing and the plastic inner wheel liner in the rear (I will get to that part at a later date). This new metal outer wheel housing gives the tire and wheel assembly proper clearance.
The original prototype part was made handed (LH /RH not shown) and would have required two separate tools. I believed that I could make a non handed part work and save the company tens of thousands of dollars in tooling expenses.
First I made templates of the design I thought would work, then a made my first prototype part to try on both sides. I was successful:biggrin: in coming up with a design. Now we needed to make several prototype parts and a master part for our supplier.
The first picture shows the fixture that was used in order to make the multiple components. This is a form and tack welding tool that we placed the seven individual components for making one wheel well housing. . The second picture shows the master part on the assembly fixture. The third picture is the part with the zinc primer surface that was applied on all the prototype parts to prevent rust. (Production parts e-coated). The fourth picture shows some of the templates that the parts were made from and some of the metal components that make up the seven individual components. Regards Rick