Cleaning valves...looking for solvent advice

87LtdT

Active Member
Joined
May 26, 2001
Valve are removed from head and I'm cleaning the carbon from the stem side of the valve. Is there a solvent in which I can soak them that will help break up or soften the carbon buildup??

Thanks, Bob
 
I'll be darned...I'll give it a try thanks. I assumed it had to be some exotic poisonous methyl ethyl ketone like stuff :)

Bob
 
Or you can try D-Limonene, Levels of 3%-7% d-Limonene with surfactants (ethoxylated alcohols, glycol ethers, ethoxylated amines)

Generally these formulas take a 2:1 ratio to emulsify d-Limonene at these levels (e.g. 10% d-Limonene, 5% surfactants, balance water). The addition of EDTA (chelates) to tie up metals, and phosphates (builders) such as STPP, TKPP, and metasilicates will contribute to the balance of the emulsion and probably significantly improve the overall effectiveness of the cleaner.
These various ingredients can be adjusted to raise the pH to the desired level and improve chances of creating a stable "non-separating" formula. The 3%-7% d-Limonene level is effective on medium weight grease, oil, carbon and road film. It is an excellent whitewall tire cleaner in the
concentrate form.

:D :D :D Um tranny fluid would work also
 
Maybe some basic titration is in order for optimum Ph??

That d-Limonene with a ****gob of surfactants is some kick ass stuff :)

Got a valve soaking in trans fluid now :)

Bob
 
Bead blast them or pay someone to do it for you.
 
GM Top Engine Cleaner or SeaFoam. You have to let them soak.How much depends on how crusty they are. I've done this with pistons too. You can speed it up a little by baking them at low heat for short periods of time in the oven. Say 200 degrees for 15-20 minutes. Not recommended if you have women living under your roof.:p
 
CAREFUL here!!

Bead Blast???? If you do use bead blasting, STAY off the stem, where it can contact the guide.
Glass beads are harder than S/S, and WILL leave an imbedded dust in the stem.. That's the end of your seals and guides, should this happen.:eek:
I have seen more than 1 engine go "Tango Uniform" with that very problem... Even worse on titanium valves!!:frown:
 
What about plain old carb cleaner? Not the stuff in the aerosal can but the hard core stuff that comes in a gallon can. I have used it in variuos engine parts like pistons and rods and it cleans it and leaves it like new.

Curious to know also because I will be pulling the valves out of my heads since I have to change the springs for the roller cam.:biggrin:
 
Use a wire wheel on a bench grinder. THEN.......chuck the valve in your drill press and use a 4" flap sander to remove the stupid ridge on the back side of the intake valves. Good for flow gains. While the heads are apart, get busy with a die grinder and port them. 70+% of flow gains are in the 1st inch and a half under the valve seat. Have a good three angle valve job done and a good 30* back-cut on all the valves.
 
I didn't see the need for clear coat on valves.:rolleyes: Not too many people see my valves after they are installed.
 
I had already been soaking the valve heads in paint thinner but it hadn't done much softening when I asked the "solvent" question initially.

After the trans fluid recommendation I put 2 valve heads in trans fluid and left the others in paint thinner. Yesterday I began hand brushing and found the carbon to be equally soft on those in paint thinner for 2 days as those in trans fluid for one day.

Still had to use a knife edge on some well stuck areas but could have eventually brushed them off too if I had unlimited elbow stamina, or wanted to let them soak longer :)

Thanks, Bob
 
Save the elbow, chuck the valve up in a drill and spin the drill against your wire brush. Don't press too hard against the brush, the valve may spin in the drill and damage the valve.

Or you could buy a cheap Harbor Freight bench grinder and put a brass wire wheel on it.
 
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