Cheap Bottom End Build

[TurboWh1]

I have an engine I was contemplating pulling the crank in the car and just replacing the main and rod bearings. Anyone ever done this?

Here is my rational for doing so:
Some one has already pulled the rear main and #3 caps. The #3 bearing shows signs of scuffing and I don’t care for how the #4 looks. The #4 appears to look cracked and has light scuffing towards the ends of the cap where the bearing locks in. Almost from old age.... The crank looks to be in excellent shape. It does not appear to have spun a bearing but I have not heard the engine run. This engine is stock with aprox 115k miles. Engine is very clean inside so no debris to worry about. In theory, if the specs on the block are within reason of the original build then I should be able to just replace bearings?

 

[bpman1234]

Good question is wondering the same thing got my pan off and doing the rear seal and timing chain front cover water pump ect .?

 

[turbo89]

I have an engine I was contemplating pulling the crank in the car and just replacing the main and rod bearings. Anyone ever done this?

Here is my rational for doing so:
Some one has already pulled the rear main and #3 caps. The #3 bearing shows signs of scuffing and I don’t care for how the #4 looks. The #4 appears to look cracked and has light scuffing towards the ends of the cap where the bearing locks in. Almost from old age.... The crank looks to be in excellent shape. It does not appear to have spun a bearing but I have not heard the engine run. This engine is stock with aprox 115k miles. Engine is very clean inside so no debris to worry about. In theory, if the specs on the block are within reason of the original build then I should be able to just replace bearings?

Easier and less headache to just pull the motor

 

[Toby_Goodmk]

pull the motor, trust me.

 

[Nick Micale]

If you have been running into the 10's which you list, my opinion is to leave well enough alone until you do a proper rebuild.

The bearing are telling you your crank is flexing like crazy, and new bearing are not going to help, maybe just the opposite?

With 30 years of hard use, time to "retire" that crank anyway.

 

[turbo89]

If you have been running into the 10's which you list, my opinion is to leave well enough alone until you do a proper rebuild.

The bearing are telling you your crank is flexing like crazy, and new bearing are not going to help, maybe just the opposite?

With 30 years of hard use, time to "retire" that crank anyway.

I don't think he is talking about the engine in his 10 second ride .. he says he has never heard it run and doesn't know the condition and somebody pulled caps off..

 

[TurboWh1]

I should have clarified.... Basically a stock set up. Minor upgrades and might rarely see the track. Goal would be 12 second street car. Car is numbers matching so I wont be beating on this one too much Unless a Mustang pulls up next to me.... Then I guess I gotta go for it.

I typically would pull the engine in this situation but unfortunately my garage is so jamb packed at the moment as I'm doing a restoration on an 87 Limited and storing a few other toys. Don’t want to pull this engine right now as the 10 second motor is coming out for a reseal in the very near future. Girdled motors are a pain to work on IMOP! Trying to make this engine run in the most economical means possible. I even have a set of new rod and main bearings laying around for it. I would probably have the crank polished at a minimum and I do have the equipment to check parts for accuracy. The old man has a CMM and various mics and boar gauges to check for roundness, size and fitment. Unfortunately, I have the engine tolerances basically memorized from the last few engine builds

The only reason I'm considering doing this is a good friend of mine caught a rod bearing starting to go bad.... Pulled the cap, replaced the bearing and hand polished the crank. That was 65K miles ago. Even that surprises me and this wasn’t a turbo application but still that is quite remarkable!

 

[turbo nasty]

Get the block checked for cracks at the mains webbing as well.

 

[TurboWh1]

Get the block checked for cracks at the mains webbing as well.

Not sure if I can check that in the car unless its an obvious visual issue? I'll probably pull the crank in the next few days and see what all I’m dealing with prior to making my final decision on full rebuild or just a bearing swap. If the crank checks out, I'll probably go for it. Worst case, I pull the engine later. I'll try to get some pics of the process if it works out.

 

[turbo nasty]

Im talking pull the engine

 

[ek02]

I have an engine I was contemplating pulling the crank in the car and just replacing the main and rod bearings. Anyone ever done this?

If you are "pulling the crank" in the car, the trans and front cover have to come out. Lots of work. It's easier to pull the engine. If you are just replacing the main and rod bearings, it can be done in the car without pulling the crank, but it's not the best way to do it. Cracks in the main webs usually start on #2 & #3 main and go up to the cam bearings, or they show up around the threads. The casting lines in the crankcase look like cracks, but real cracks can be hard to see sometimes. Good luck with this job.

 

[earlbrown]

If I were going to half ass it (again) I'd just roll some wider rod bearings in place and let it fly. Since you've go issue with the mains, I'll pull the engine, hand polish the crank, replace the partially clogged oil pickup to a Melling unit, and fix the pickup-to-pan clearance.

Then after a hand polish, measure the journals and decide if .001"s are needed (or half shells) then put wider 95 park avenue rod bearings in there. ...same thing with the potential half shells, then let it fly.

That's assUming it passes a leak down test and the cooling system holds pressure perfect.


.and, of course, while it's out you can replace the timing set that looks like a Waffle House waitress' smile and do the oil mods.

 

[turbo89]

Not sure if I can check that in the car unless its an obvious visual issue? I'll probably pull the crank in the next few days and see what all I’m dealing with prior to making my final decision on full rebuild or just a bearing swap. If the crank checks out, I'll probably go for it. Worst case, I pull the engine later. I'll try to get some pics of the process if it works out.

yea the only reason I was saying pull the engine .. if your puling the crank out ... your talking an extra few bolts to just pull the motor over doing that .. and its just a lot harder to work on then pulling it out and going through it .. not to mention the quality of the work you can do with it out of the car is FAR better as you have a better work area .. just simpler in the long run .. if you want to keep it a numbers matching .. that's what I would do ..

Sure would take a bit more space but realistically .. for what your trying to do if everything checks out and you just do bearings and clean up some stuff.. your talking
a Full Saturday job start to finish and then you have peace of mind and something that will last you

sounds like the car is worth putting a bit of time into if its a numbers matching car

 

[Mr.Spool]

I typically would pull the engine in this situation

time to get goingstop posting and pull it

 

[TurboWh1]

Well I pulled the engine this past Saturday and I must say, getting that crank out in the car would have been a Biotch!!!

Now I'm cleaning and painting everything under the hood. Its funny how one thing leads to another

 

[Gene Van Horn]

Yea real funny, next it'll be a frame off resto.

 

[turbo89]

Well I pulled the engine this past Saturday and I must say, getting that crank out in the car would have been a Biotch!!!

Now I'm cleaning and painting everything under the hood. Its funny how one thing leads to another

your a smart man Charlie Brown ... gonna be easier in the long run , better quality work , and now you will have a detailed clean engine comp. to boot ...

 

[TLIMITED]

,I started a radiator swap and went from this to this.lol

 

[TurboWh1]

^^^^ I'm not to far off. I may put a radiator support in it as well since it has some extra holes cut in it. I might be forced to wait on that one though since I'm moving in the next few weeks. My wife thought I was crazy for pulling the engine this close to the move. I hope I can getter running and drive it to the new house. Time will tell on that one

 

[TLIMITED]

^^^^ I'm not to far off. I may put a radiator support in it as well since it has some extra holes cut in it. I might be forced to wait on that one though since I'm moving in the next few weeks. My wife thought I was crazy for pulling the engine this close to the move. I hope I can getter running and drive it to the new house. Time will tell on that one

Yep,I decided to powder coat radiator support,inner fenders,control arms etc.and some engine pieces. Plus paint motor,frame rails etc.So it should look great when its done.