What are some things that would be a priority besides the obvious!!!!! fuel filter//tranny fluid ?? how about engine oil? does it have to be warm to drain, really do not wan tto crank with old oil ,, or does it matter?? How about removing the oil pan an just pouring oil thru the motor to lubricate it. Then putting pan back on an fill her up. Guess should try to drain any remaining gas from tank thru shrader valve if there is any.. Just looking for ideas, trying not to hurt anything before start up, want to take all precautions necessary. Yes its a TR by the way.
Car hasn't been cranked in 13yrs!!!!!
- Thread starter RUQWKNF27
- Start date
Its not quite the epic saga these guys make it sound like.
First off, yes, the gaskets may be dried out and leak. Worse case scenario: You will need to replace the oil pan gasket, intake gasket, vc gaskets, and front cover gaskets, along with main seals. The head gaskets should be OK. But forget that for now. First thing, drain and replace the oil and filter. Remove all the spark plugs, and spray a liberal coating of WD40 on the cylinder walls, making sure to try and get all the way around the piston. Now, prime the oil pump. This will require removing the cam sensor and resetting it. Prime it until you get oil out of the pushrods. Let the WD40 sit for awhile. Using a breaker bar, and with the plugs removed, turn the engine over by hand. It hopefully will turn easily, and thats a good sign. Now you can start the engine, but of course, you need to make sure theres clean, fresh fuel in the tank, and a new fuel filter. It may be a good idea to prime the fuel system by taking the schrader valve out of the rail, and running the pump hotwired for a little bit, to remove air and moisture from the lines. If no major oil leaks have made themselves known yet, fire it up! Though not required, I would drop the pan first, just to see whats up (damage?) and put a new gasket on there. Why was the car parked for so long? Maybe engine damage?
First off, yes, the gaskets may be dried out and leak. Worse case scenario: You will need to replace the oil pan gasket, intake gasket, vc gaskets, and front cover gaskets, along with main seals. The head gaskets should be OK. But forget that for now. First thing, drain and replace the oil and filter. Remove all the spark plugs, and spray a liberal coating of WD40 on the cylinder walls, making sure to try and get all the way around the piston. Now, prime the oil pump. This will require removing the cam sensor and resetting it. Prime it until you get oil out of the pushrods. Let the WD40 sit for awhile. Using a breaker bar, and with the plugs removed, turn the engine over by hand. It hopefully will turn easily, and thats a good sign. Now you can start the engine, but of course, you need to make sure theres clean, fresh fuel in the tank, and a new fuel filter. It may be a good idea to prime the fuel system by taking the schrader valve out of the rail, and running the pump hotwired for a little bit, to remove air and moisture from the lines. If no major oil leaks have made themselves known yet, fire it up! Though not required, I would drop the pan first, just to see whats up (damage?) and put a new gasket on there. Why was the car parked for so long? Maybe engine damage?
JDSfastGN
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2001
I agree with turbosam6, its not that big of a deal, what he said is exactly right, we have a 72 chevelle that sat since 1984 until this summer. We poured oil in the sparkplug holes and let it sit overnight, rebuilt the carb, turned it over by hand and lubed it up. Took a compression test and made sure they were all ok. I was a lazy ass and just put about 3 cans of gas saver in the tank and filled it up with 7 gallons of new 93 octane and fired it off. There is rust in the tank so dropping it and getting it cleaned is a really good idea, and the fuel pump is probably dead as well anyways. All the gaskets were fine other than the tranny pans Good luck with it
Good luck with itMine had been sitting for 5 years when I got it. drained the oil and gas and pulled the plugs. Squirted a few tbsp of light weight oil in each cyl and let it sit. I could already see that the valve cover gaskets were leaking so I pulled the VC's and tapped each valve lightly with a rubber hammer - just enough to move it. I wanted to make sure that no valves were stuck.
Then, I turned the engine over by hand a few times and watched all the valves work. I bought a new battery, swapped the antifreeze, fuel filter and oil filter.
After all the new stuff and 10 gals of premium, I cranked it with the computer lead discoed, and the spark plugs out, till there was oil pressure for about 30 seconds. Put in new plugs and cranked it up.
Fired right up, haven't had a problem since. I did flush out the gas tank after about 3 months... not much came out. I was really surprised how easy the gas tank came out. Changed the pump while I was there too.
I still haven't done anything with the tranny fluid but I haven't put a 1000 miles on it either.
Oh, I put a quart of tranny fluid in with the first motor oil change. I thought I heard somewhere that the tranny fluid will help with some of the sludge and build-up. I ran that first oil through for about 150 miles then changed it.
Good Luck whatever route you go...
Vic
Then, I turned the engine over by hand a few times and watched all the valves work. I bought a new battery, swapped the antifreeze, fuel filter and oil filter.
After all the new stuff and 10 gals of premium, I cranked it with the computer lead discoed, and the spark plugs out, till there was oil pressure for about 30 seconds. Put in new plugs and cranked it up.
Fired right up, haven't had a problem since. I did flush out the gas tank after about 3 months... not much came out. I was really surprised how easy the gas tank came out. Changed the pump while I was there too.
I still haven't done anything with the tranny fluid
but I haven't put a 1000 miles on it either.Oh, I put a quart of tranny fluid in with the first motor oil change. I thought I heard somewhere that the tranny fluid will help with some of the sludge and build-up. I ran that first oil through for about 150 miles then changed it.
Good Luck whatever route you go...
Vic
Ok Good Info Here Guys!!!!
I always olike Tr's an especially all the people wanting to help....
I rather not remove the Cam Sensor, even though i see the logic here with removeing it an priming the engine. However I believe I may never get it set back right. So is it that necessary to remove??? Or is it possible to prime the motor with just the power lead disconnected, so that it doesn't start. Car is a Original 23K 87TR. Been told by some that the oil will be fine.. Just worry about getting all the bad fuel out an crank it up..!!! An change oil after couple 100 miles. This is not my thinking how ever!!! Tell me what you guys think about this...
1// Drop tank.. Have new one now!! Install new pump. Got 1 those too.
2// Radiator fluid change. So that I don't push any sludge into the heads.
3// Spray WD-40 LIBERALLY into each cylinder an let sit for a while.
4// Install new plugs
5// Install new fuel filter
6// New battery
7// Fill with new gas. an purge system out shrader.
8// Say a short prayer, cross fingers in 1 hand an turn switch over with other.
Car is all original like I said was bought by collector in late 80's an sit inside with cover. It is a real gem with out orange peel believe it or not. Still smells new. Another 1 a friend bought while back been sitting same scenario. Runs fine. he just changed pump an fired it up. However I am more careful.
I always olike Tr's an especially all the people wanting to help....
I rather not remove the Cam Sensor, even though i see the logic here with removeing it an priming the engine. However I believe I may never get it set back right. So is it that necessary to remove??? Or is it possible to prime the motor with just the power lead disconnected, so that it doesn't start. Car is a Original 23K 87TR. Been told by some that the oil will be fine.. Just worry about getting all the bad fuel out an crank it up..!!! An change oil after couple 100 miles. This is not my thinking how ever!!! Tell me what you guys think about this...
1// Drop tank.. Have new one now!! Install new pump. Got 1 those too.
2// Radiator fluid change. So that I don't push any sludge into the heads.
3// Spray WD-40 LIBERALLY into each cylinder an let sit for a while.
4// Install new plugs
5// Install new fuel filter
6// New battery
7// Fill with new gas. an purge system out shrader.
8// Say a short prayer, cross fingers in 1 hand an turn switch over with other.
Car is all original like I said was bought by collector in late 80's an sit inside with cover. It is a real gem with out orange peel believe it or not. Still smells new. Another 1 a friend bought while back been sitting same scenario. Runs fine. he just changed pump an fired it up. However I am more careful.
Don't just crank it over with the WD40 in the cylinders. Break it loose with a breaker bar. This is in case the walls have rusted and won't allow the rings past the rust. I think its an 1 1/8" socket. YES, PULL THE CAM SENSOR!! I am sure someone in your area has a caspers cam sensor tool, if not buy one. They might be $35 or so. This will make setting the sensor easy. Its really not much work. Good luck!
wlaukaitis
3rd Member
- Joined
- Aug 5, 2003
Nah
Hi,
Call me crazy but:
Mine was sitting for 9 years
Dumped the oil, and filter. New oil and filter. Gas smelled ok, left it. Still have the old fuel filter in. Put about 1 quart of oil down the upper oil cooler line. The car would not run anyway so I cranked it until the oil light went out.
Runs like a top!!! big probems were: big 'ol nasty hole in main rear brake line, changed them all. Also a hole in the mail fuel line ( on order) and one in the feed line behind all the A/C compressor and such (changed today). BTW, all holes were in the STEEL not in the rubber.
oil pressure @ cold: 70 psi idle
@ hot: 15 psi idle
So I guess I was impatient and wanted to get it to run and I did. I am not worried about the motor.
Bill
Hi,
Call me crazy but:
Mine was sitting for 9 years
Dumped the oil, and filter. New oil and filter. Gas smelled ok, left it. Still have the old fuel filter in. Put about 1 quart of oil down the upper oil cooler line. The car would not run anyway so I cranked it until the oil light went out.
Runs like a top!!! big probems were: big 'ol nasty hole in main rear brake line, changed them all. Also a hole in the mail fuel line ( on order) and one in the feed line behind all the A/C compressor and such (changed today). BTW, all holes were in the STEEL not in the rubber.
oil pressure @ cold: 70 psi idle
@ hot: 15 psi idle
So I guess I was impatient and wanted to get it to run and I did. I am not worried about the motor.
Bill
Well, I suppose you could half ass it, but why? It ain't like you need it to get to work in 15 minutes. If theres rust on the cylinder walls, you won't be able to rotate the motor by hand, at least without extreme effort. However, hitting it with the starter will spin it, and maybe break the rings or worse.
Well How??
Where do i put the socket to break the motor loose?? On the crank pulley. is this where I use the breaker bar an 1 1/8th socket??? Also after I take out the crank sensor what do I use in the hole to prime oil pump?? An are the Caspers Crank sensor tool for $35 that simple to use, by just plugging them in an turning the sensor untill the red light comes on as they say??
Where do i put the socket to break the motor loose?? On the crank pulley. is this where I use the breaker bar an 1 1/8th socket??? Also after I take out the crank sensor what do I use in the hole to prime oil pump?? An are the Caspers Crank sensor tool for $35 that simple to use, by just plugging them in an turning the sensor untill the red light comes on as they say??
