CAM SELECTION (all opinions welcome!)

ChrisF

New Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2001
Ok guys, weigh in. I need to at least replace a timing chain after the car just "just quit" late last summer. I have spark, fuel, erratic cranking sound, and a lil spike in the boost gauge during cranking. After I verify all 6 have good compression, I am convinced it's a timing chain.

I figured while I am in there, might as well do a cam, lifters, and valvesprings while I am at it.

I have access to brand new Crane cam that specs at .448, .472 - 204, 214 @ .050 on a 112 deg LSA.

Based on my combo (see sig) I have the following questions:

1) Is this cam a good pick? I was thinking dual pattern (heavy on the exhaust side) might help spool up at lower rpm on the street;

2) Which hydraulic, non-roller lifters do I get?

3) Which valvesprings to buy?

4) Which timing set?

5) Install "straight up" or advanced or retarded?

Any other tips, tricks, suggestions, etc would be welcome. I am going to replace the springs without pulling the heads by pressurizing the cylinders.

Thanks in advance!!!

Chris
 
This is basically the same as the edelbrock cam and several are running it. Install it straight up. Any changes will cause an issue on the bottom or top end. Get the comp 980's as far as the springs and you should be happy.
 
Summit carries a lunati 32506 or 32508 cam for the buick v6.. the 06 cam is slightly bigger than stock 1,200 5,000 rpm range and its ground on a 107, Im putting the 08 in my 4.1 street motor its an excellent street performance cam 440 459 lift ground on a 108 as for lifters i would suggest gm delphi lifters or melling ..gm are quieter..and is what the factory used originally. As for advance, you should check with the cam manufacturer or the cam card, use a degree wheel when you install the cam to verifiy the cam card. The valve springs depend on cam selection... The old style 70s chevy lt1 valve springs are good for a mild street cam and are very inexpensive. hope this helps
 
Have you checked the cam sensor? We had one shear off the tab up top last year & the reluctor ring moved causing similar issues. It still felt tight but had moved. On the split pattern cam, I ran a 208/214 for years with good results.

John
 
I don't think the chain broke, maybe just slipped. All rockers move. The cam sensor also appears okay, and it also is turning - but I will look at it further. Thanks again guys! Anyone else?
 
On the one I am refering to the cam sensor appeared fine & moved & felt tight. When I pulled it out I could turn it while holding the gear but it was stiff enough I couldn't while it was in the car. RJC sells a kit to fix this so it must be a fairly common problem.
 
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