burnouts at track

[turboaddict2]

I assume everyone who does burnouts at the track prior to launching has a line lock. Can you do a burnout with the stock brakes with no line lock? If you tried a burnout with no line lock wouldn't the drum brakes stop the rear tires from spinning?

 

[Ken Cunningham]

No, the rear brakes cannot hold back the power of the turbo Regal. You can break them free of the brake shoes easily. I'm surprised you haven't indulged in a great big smokey burnout yourself. They're great fun.

 

[turboaddict2]

burnouts

yeah I should try them one time on the street. So I just step on the brakes and floor the gas pedal i guess?

 

[UNGN]

For 5 years I did powerbrake burnouts, then I bought a line lock and almost imeadiately wished I had bought one 5 years earlier.

Power brake burnouts are very hard on the rear brakes. They heat them up to a point where they don't hold as much boost as when they are cold. On my car its the diference between about 5 psi and about 10 psi.

In the five years I power braked burnouts, I gradually learned how to reduce the heat input, by using the water and getting off of the brakes once the tires start to spin. There is no substitute for a line lock, however, especially on a TR where the back brakes are so important to a good launch.

 

[OKTurbo]

The easiest way I've found is to stand on the brakes hard and spool up some boost....usually around 5 psi....not letting the tires spin....then when you get up to around 5 psi....let off the brakes a bit and the rear tires will start to spin....give it some more gas and you're doing a burnout.

It's really pretty easy at the track with the tires wet from the waterbox.

 

[turboaddict2]

what if you have regular radials? you gotta go around the water box right? Then you won't have water to do a burnout(that is unless you have a line lock i guess)?

 

[OKTurbo]

What you do is drive around the water box and then back up into it to get the back tires wet.

If you're racing with regular radials....or drag radials for that matter....you don't want to get them wet. You really don't need much of a burnout with radials anyway. Just spin them a few times to clean off the dirt and gravel.

I use Hoosier QT Pros, which are basically slick with a few grooves cut in them. DOT street legal

 

[S2V6RACER]

My linelock didn't work at Norwalk, I just powerbrake it and let off the brakes then hit second and don't waste time spinning the tires up. I would say I do about a 4 second burnout and that's it. I have found it doesn't improve my 60's going beyond that.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Burnoutz

Back to the FWIW dept. [Again]
We did alot of testing some time ago for MT.
Here's what we learned while working w/ Jerry Francis of M/T:
1. Tires should be heated to approx. 10-15* hotter than the track surface. [Good use for the infrared gun!!] NO need for a long, smoky burnout.. just uses up the tires and does nothing for the performance.
2. NO dry hops! A burnout is designed to get the oils in the rubber to the surface of the tires so they are sticky. If you do a dry hop, then the part of the tires that were "hopped" are then void of the oils and sticky rubber. Watch the pros do a burnout.. no dry hops.. Cept for the bikes.
3. When doing a burnout, USE a line-loc!! Back into the water, set the loc and start the tires to spinning. Shift to 2'nd gear.. no need for a "bazzilion" RPM here. Watch for smoke. I always count 1000-1, 1000-2, 1000-3 and let go of the line loc. The car will begin to move forward, and as it does, I start backing out of the throttle. [No point in stretching the rods a half inch!!] Back to low gear, on the brakes to start some boost, stage first so I got some seconds to get some more boost up and let it rip!! [Tranny brakes are a HOOT!!]
4. Run the MAX air PSI you can.[Makes the car as stable as possible down track] Watch the tire wear patterns after a run to see if the scuffing is 100% across the tire face. If the scuff is in the middle only, then the PSI is too hi. If the outer is heavier than the center, then the PSI is too low. The scuff should be the same density, or real close across the entire surface.
5. Wheel width has alot to do w/ the performance too. The most common match is that up to a 10" tire, the rim can be 2" narrower. After 10" width, the rim should be as close to the tire width as possible.

Wheels that are too far "off", will make the contact patch incorrect. Ever see a 12" tire on an 8" rim???

Back to spinnin' the tires!!

HAPPY MUTHA"S DAY!! All you Mutha's!!!

 

[88LowOutPut]

Re: burnouts

Originally posted by turboaddict2
yeah I should try them one time on the street. So I just step on the brakes and floor the gas pedal i guess?

I wouldnt go mashing the pedal the first time...take it easy the first time. Thats going to be one hell of a smoke show if you just mash it