Bob Bailey ignition module

at the moment it is set up for the GN crank and cam sensors. We have considered some of the "fast-start" scenarios and plan to accomodate those setups, but the first batch will be GN specific.

Bob
 
pics of it installed

Here are some pics of an installed system with the coilpack. Note that the wires are advance auto cheapies for a V6 Silverado. Quick and easy for initial tests. They are a little long but cost 32.00 for the set....
 

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startup videos

2 short videos of the system starting. (so we are getting there.)

[video=youtube;k3V1bHJkwOs]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k3V1bHJkwOs[/video]

[video=youtube;oLIHilCQfAY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oLIHilCQfAY[/video]
 
So Bob, You don't see a downside to waste spark? The advantage is in modern coil technology? I've already bought 6 coilpacks so I'll be doing CNP, just curious. Thanks again for your contributions to the community!
 
Bob, since the project is coming closer to conclusion, is there an updated , estimated cost to this system..... I am extremely interested and was wondering how much I needed to save... also (I might have missed this) can this module be configured (through the dip switches) for individual C.O.P.?ThksAaron
 
Ignition module

Will there be also plumbed for the H/A folks?

What parts can we start getting now in preparation to getting module?

Did not see link to videos?

Thanks
 
So for those of us wanting individual LS coils, is there a specific coil we need to look for? I see that the ones you are using mounted on the module, are the ones with the connector going out the same side as the plug wire terminal. Is this strictly for packaging/space constraints? If I get a set off a 06 GMC 6.0 truck motor (with the connector sticking out the opposite way as the plug wire terminal), will this module run them? Will the coil harnesses off the truck work, just removing the extra cylinder coil wiring? I ask because I got a lead on a full set off a 6.0 and they're cheap. Actually most junkyarders are gonna find more trucks than anything else, so I can't be the only one wanting to know this.

Thanks in advance. Your translators still rock. I'm never looking back to the stock maf and I'll likely never look back at the waste spark. You make my junk reliable. :)
 
All the GM coils will work except the round body truck coils with the metal fins (19005218)

The LS2 coils (12573190) are pretty much the hottest ones,
The square body truck coils (12558693) would be my second choice (from a 'hotness' standpoint)
The older LS1 coils (12558948) are solid performers, but don't make quite as much fire as the first 2. note I have these on my car, so they decent, regardless. (I got them cheap)

There will be an optional harness available that connects to the later coils, so the OEM V8 harnesses are not needed.

Bob
 
took some pics with some of Shane's custom wires. (just the MSD wires, not the big fatties..) Will be testing more this week and also running the coil-per-plug mode also.

Bob
 

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Awesome. Are you guys going to fabricate any brackets for the coils on the valve covers or are there too many variations?

I now have 9 "square body truck coils" and factory brackets in my possession. :) For free, with a little legwork.
 
yes, we will be making some brackets, there are only a few main flavors, so it shouldn't be too complex.

Bob
 
bob have you noticed any difference in idle. leaner? smoother? also what kind of gap can we be looking at in terms of 25psi? do you think we can run up to or around .065 like on an old big block after converting to electronic ignition.
 
.065 might be a bit aggressive. I'm game to try it though. Some of Bruce Plecan's testing showed that you can run a LOT of gap, but thats probably not the best way to run.

When you widen the gap and raise the boost, the firing voltage goes up, and then the quality of your ignition wires and boots come into play.

One things for sure, this is a huge step in the right direction.

Bob
 
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