Blms in 90s, can't go past 1/4 throttle???

I replaced the coil pack, one from Advance Auto Parts. I know non AC-delco parts are frowned upon, but since this didn't fix the problem, and since nothing has changed, i think i can rule out the coil pack.

Would a bad coil module produce symptons like i am experiencing?

An interesting observation.....If i hold the throttle at the right spot while its cutting out/sputtering..my O2 senser reads zero for as long as i hold the throttle there (few seconds). Does your 02 ever do this?? if not, any ideas on what my cause this? Is the 02 reading a direct reading or a calculated value? bad ecm? MAF? :confused:

NEXT steps...hook up my ls1 MAF, and investigate CAM sensor...

I have the PL file for anyone who wants to see it...


Thanks,
Nate
 
I think it is much more probable that it is the module..... not the coilpack....

Most of these modules are crap... they give trouble.... it is a crapshoot with a new one even... there is a reason there quickly came a type II module...... cause the Type I.....is a piece!

Get a new good GM module.....
 
My vote is for

Module and/or crank sensor. Do yourself a favor and buy ac/delco replacements.. ;)
 
Thanks for the feedback.. I called autozone, they said that they can test the module's. Maybe i'll take my module to Autozone, let them test it, and if its bad i'll pick up a Delco unit somewhere (type 1 or type 11). Has anyone use autozone to at least test their coil module?

Thanks,
Nate
 
well i just got back from autozone...they tested the module at least 10 to 15 times and passed every time. I don't know that i can 100% rule it out, as it didn't get REAL hot, but it is something....

hmm what next... i guess tonight i'll swap out the 4" integrated MAF with my LS1, check the plugs, and cam sensor...

Cam sensor - if the cam sensor was defunct, wouldn't it be defunct at all RPMs...since i can replicate the problem almost everytime, that tells me it happens consistenty NOT CONSTANTLY like i would think a defunct cam sensor would be.

:(

Thanks,
Nate
 
fullahotair said:
well i just got back from autozone...they tested the module at least 10 to 15 times and passed every time. I don't know that i can 100% rule it out, as it didn't get REAL hot, but it is something....

hmm what next... i guess tonight i'll swap out the 4" integrated MAF with my LS1, check the plugs, and cam sensor...

Cam sensor - if the cam sensor was defunct, wouldn't it be defunct at all RPMs...since i can replicate the problem almost everytime, that tells me it happens consistenty NOT CONSTANTLY like i would think a defunct cam sensor would be.

:(

Thanks,
Nate
Click to expand...

I don't think the autozone tester adequately tests the module. I've read many instances of people insisting the module is good because it tested fine at AZ, and it turns out to be bad..... just saying...

Agree with your reasoning re. the cam sensor. Do the MAF swap and see what that does. As I mentioned before, did you verify that the motor is not rocking over at a certain 'load' and shorting something out? Could be ok at no load, and rocking past the 'bad spot' wide open, and contacting something at an intermediate load (ie. throttle position)?

Keep after it.... you'll get it figured out and have a AHH HAA! moment... :)
 
I agree.... you cannot adequately test a module IMHO at AZ.... it is under little/no load. Caspers has a tester that will adequately test it.

Obviously yours works when cold... or not under much load..... then the problems start....

Too bad you don't have someone elses known good module/coilpack to test on your car.
 
Az is full of it, I wouldnt buy air freshner from those idiots. Nothing but a bunch of meth heads on work release work at the ones around here. I got 2 "know good" modules at my shop, wish you were closer.
 
I know it's a longshot, but do you have any junk yards close by that might have a used one? I picked up the coil pack and ignition module for $25 bucks total last week while I was looking for a brake pedal to do my vacume brake swap. I wasn't having the exact same problem as you, but I just knew it had to be ignition related because mine would fall flat on it's face, then backfire. I installed the module and coilpack and all the problems went away...it's worth a try.

gnttype.org has a listing of all the vehicle that the type 1 ignition module and coil pack reside. I would +2 that testing at AZ doesn't really prove much.

Load and heat of being under the hood, changes values that can't be accounted for.

Steve
 
I may hit up the junkyard tomorrow to see if i can't get another module just to confirm.

Tonight i cleaned all the plugs...they were all black.

Swapped in my LS1 MAF, swapped in another ECM, and replaced the center ring of the cam sensor, as the one in there looked a little corroded...and the problem still exists...

As i mentioned earlier, I think i'll try to get another module and see what that does for me.... In addition to that, i think i'll bypass the translator to see what that does for me. I can run the extender chip without the translator right? i'll just have to use my stock MAF i believe...


I'll keep chugging...eventually i'll run out of things to check?!?!

Nate
 
I installed a Type II coil/module that I got from a local junkyard. It only has 30,000 miles on it, was confirmed operational prior to pulling. Yet the problem is still there. I think i can reasonably rule out the coil/module...

My current guess as to what is happening, is that it running pig rich all the time, I goose the throttle and hold it, fuel dumps on the plugs puts the spark out, plugs ultimately fire, engine idles up, then floods, etc,etc until i get out of it...fuel is causing the O2 to drop zero or near zero while i am in the throttle, when the plugs do fire, the O2 goes up to 800's, and the process repeats itself.... thats the theory of the day...now i gotta figure out why it is doing that or why i am wrong.....bad chip??

Any ideas on trouble shooting? tomorrow i am rule out the cam sensor...

Thanks,
Nate
 
Would a crank sensor only act up in certian situations? It starts easily, and runs seemingly well at light throttle......Regardless i'll check that out tomorrow as well the cam sensor...


Thanks for idea!!!,
Nate
 
TurboBuRick said:
CRANK SENSOR CRANK SENSOR CRANK SENSOR :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Make sure the balancer bolt hasn't come loose. They DO come loose, and then the balancer starts wobbling a bit, hosing the crank sensor. Have seen it happen to SEVERAL others. Something else to check... :wink:
 
Well i figured out the problem. When i purchased the 4" MAF, I had to buy an upgrade chip for the translator. I specificly remember paying particular attention to how the old chip was oriented versus the one i was putting in. Evidently i didn't pay close enough attention, as I had the chip in backwards. Surpisingly the car will run with the chip backwards...who woulda thunk it? Thanks for all that helped troubleshoot, it was great oppurtunity for me to learn a lot about the various sensors and the side effects they may cause if they are bad....


Thanks!
Nate
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
can't get past 5psi
Replies
18
Views
1K
shmed
S
SlowGrandNational
Small exhaust leaks causing this much headache?
Replies
5
Views
539
SlowGrandNational
SlowGrandNational
G
High BLM
Replies
7
Views
1K
GNVAIR
G
C
GN dead on the 1-2 shift
Replies
11
Views
1K
TIMINATOR
TIMINATOR
H
GREMLIN CONTINUES TO BE PRESENT MAKING DRIVING UNSAFE
2
Replies
37
Views
2K
gsgns4me
gsgns4me
Top