When the O2 sensor is seeing too much fuel, it will reduce fueling which will lower the BLM number. The perfect target fueling (14.7:1 A/F) should result in a BLM of 128. The max BLM is like 166 and the bottom is 90. Your 95 number means its pulling almost as much fuel as it possibly can. Its almost maxed out. 95 means its leaning it way out to compensate for a rich condition. When you go WOT and you see a 128, its only because the computer has switched into open loop, meaning its not using any sensor information to adjust fuel. So that means you're not leaning out at WOT. It just means youve dropped into open loop and the number drops right into the middle of the range. This is when you need to look at o2 millivolts to see whats going on. With your typical chip, BLM's are for tuning closed loop conditions (idle and cruise) and o2 millivolts are for tuning open loop (WOT).
To know if your o2 sensor is good, we need to see if you have o2 crosscount activity. The cc's on your scanmaster should be cycling from 0-255 in closed loop. With a denso o2 sensor, my cc's would always cycle pretty slow, (even a brand new sensor) while my bosch one cycles through them really fast, which means its processing A/F data and compensating much faster. If your cc's arent really moving, then I would look at the o2 sensor. They should cycle from 0-255 in at least 90 seconds at the most. With my Bosch sensor, it takes 10-15 seconds. If your sensor is good, look to see what your AF says on the scanmaster. This is the MAF reading. After its totally warmed up and has been idling for at least 3 minutes and is in closed loop (blinking LED will stop blinking when in closed loop), tell us what the number is. Bring the rpm's up to around 3000 and tell us what the MAF reading is. If the MAF turns out to be ok, I would say either your fuel pressure is too high (whats it set at?), you have a sticking injector, you have a clogged fuel return line, (which would bring fuel pressure up when it shouldnt be), or maybe you have a translator that isnt set right or is damaged. We need to know all these numbers and what your combo is to really help you much further.
Also make sure your EGR valve is working. With the engine off, pop the hose off the barb. reach underneath the EGR valve and pull up on the diaphragm with your left hand, and plug the barb with your right finger. Let go of the diaphragm and see if it holds its position. If it drops right back quickly, its damaged. Also with the engine idling, pop the hose off the EGR valve and see if you feel a vacuum on the hose. You shouldnt. If you do, the EGR solenoid is bad. Also check to see that the EGR solenoid filter is clean.
