bench bleed MC ?
- Thread starter hang10
- Start date
The instant you disconnect the lines from your PM, you introduce air into the lines. Bleeding is the ONLY way to fix that. Besides, with a NEW Master cylinder, you should also put new fluid through out the whole system.
Bench bleeding the MC is a method of FULLY compressing the piston even FARTHER than the brake pedal can compress it. Otherwise you will LITERALLY never get rid of the air in the MC.
Do it right, bleed all 4. Brakes are NOT something to take short cuts on.
With that said here is the procedure to 'bench bleed' a Master Cylinder:
ASSUMING YOU ALREADY HAVE THE TUBES AND FITTINGS IN PLACE
The QUICKEST AND EASIEST way to bench bleed it is to use a clamp. If you have a 'quick clamp' like the one shown here:
put a small enough socket so that it fits INSIDE the bore, but large enough to be stable. Now 'clamp down' until you bottom out the piston, but DON'T FORCE ANY MORE RESSURE. Add fluid. There is a switch on that particular clamp that allows to release pressure at the same rate you apply pressure. Release some clamping force (3-4 squeezes). Repeat this process of applying and releasing pressure until you produce NO MORE AIR BUBBLES through the tubes that go up into the resivior (sp?).
3 min. TOPS to do it right.
Ryan
Bench bleeding the MC is a method of FULLY compressing the piston even FARTHER than the brake pedal can compress it. Otherwise you will LITERALLY never get rid of the air in the MC.
Do it right, bleed all 4. Brakes are NOT something to take short cuts on.
With that said here is the procedure to 'bench bleed' a Master Cylinder:
ASSUMING YOU ALREADY HAVE THE TUBES AND FITTINGS IN PLACE
The QUICKEST AND EASIEST way to bench bleed it is to use a clamp. If you have a 'quick clamp' like the one shown here:
put a small enough socket so that it fits INSIDE the bore, but large enough to be stable. Now 'clamp down' until you bottom out the piston, but DON'T FORCE ANY MORE RESSURE. Add fluid. There is a switch on that particular clamp that allows to release pressure at the same rate you apply pressure. Release some clamping force (3-4 squeezes). Repeat this process of applying and releasing pressure until you produce NO MORE AIR BUBBLES through the tubes that go up into the resivior (sp?).
3 min. TOPS to do it right.
Ryan
I chuck it up in a vice and use a Big phillips screwdriver to push down on the plunger and since i can never find my bleeder hoses, I plug the ports w/ my other hand. Fill up the master and push the plunger down and let the air out, seal em up and let the plunger return. Do that a few times. A little messy that way but it gets the job done.
Good Luck
Good Luck
Most parts houses sell a bleeder kit which is some hoses and fitting for bleeding the M/C in a vise.
Bleed the whole system and do it right. Heck, might go crazy and replace the flex lines, with AN stuff, and get a decent pedal while your at it. Brake lines, and fluid degenerate over time.
To add to what Bruce said....
...brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means it absorbs moisture. Moisture inside is death to braking systems, so bleeding the entire system at least every 2 to 4 years is recommended by most brake pros, and most OEMs. Also, think about the temps that brake fluid can see with hard use. It gets cooked down after a while. It sure won't hurt.
...brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means it absorbs moisture. Moisture inside is death to braking systems, so bleeding the entire system at least every 2 to 4 years is recommended by most brake pros, and most OEMs. Also, think about the temps that brake fluid can see with hard use. It gets cooked down after a while. It sure won't hurt.
