Anyone W/ A T-plus With Extender, Help!!

[trbochV6]

For some reason my car doesnt like the extender chip. I have the dip switches set (on,on,off,off) and the rest on zero. When I try to accelerate, the car hesitates badly. The extender chip is set up for 98 octane (alchy kit). I have 91 in it right now. Can anyone help me out on tuning this thing?

thanks

 

[trading t/a]

I'm going through the tuning process with this system as well. What are your readings telling you? I've noticed on mine that it is very rich and stumbles once and a while below 2800. Without some other info the other guys cant help you>

Pete

 

[TurboDave]

Well, the first suggestion I could make would be to get things base lined first (without the alky running). In other words, set your base timing in the T+ to "E" in order to make it a 19º chip street chip and not 98 octane. Then start monitoring your scan tool more closely to see what it's telling you. I'm most interested in what your idle BLM cell is saying, and what the stored WOT cell is setting at.

Once you get everything set up and running correctly (may not even be extender related), then bring in the alky.

 

[trbochV6]

ok, here is the update. I finally got it on the road. Its between idle and slight acceleration. Its more of a miss. After that, the car spools up instantly, and no hesitation. I actually, got it up to 20lbs with no knock. I am having problems with my turbolink giving me funny readings, so I am trying to tackle that at the same time. Now, here is another question. Would the EGR tower being blocked off by the Power plate make a difference?

Thanks for the intel...

 

[TurboDave]

Originally posted by trbochV6
ok, here is the update. I finally got it on the road. Its between idle and slight acceleration. Its more of a miss. After that, the car spools up instantly, and no hesitation. I actually, got it up to 20lbs with no knock. I am having problems with my turbolink giving me funny readings, so I am trying to tackle that at the same time. Now, here is another question. Would the EGR tower being blocked off by the Power plate make a difference?

Thanks for the intel...

The Extender doesn't have EGR provisions, so I doubt that would have anything to do with it.

A couple more basics to get pinned down:

With the car all warmed up and driven about, what your IAC number at idle in Park/Neutral?

Also, what's your TPS reading in the same circumstances?

 

[trbochV6]

Here is some data I picked up with the TL:

IAC Index 48# 18%
lv8 (load) 25#
TPS Volts 0.46 Volts
Integrator 128 #
O2 Volts 394mV
Mass Air Flow 2 gps
Block Learn 160#
O2 Delta Counts 36#
Man Air Temp -58 (damn thats cold)

This was at idle about 20 minutes after driving around.

thanks

 

[TurboDave]

Originally posted by trbochV6
Here is some data I picked up with the TL:

IAC Index 48# 18%
lv8 (load) 25#
TPS Volts 0.46 Volts
Integrator 128 #
O2 Volts 394mV
Mass Air Flow 2 gps
Block Learn 160#
O2 Delta Counts 36#
Man Air Temp -58 (damn thats cold)

This was at idle about 20 minutes after driving around.

thanks

I've never understood TL's IAC numbers that well, but if that 48# is the raw counts then I'd say that's significantly higher than it needs to be (assuming you were in Park/Neutral). If however, you were in gear and took these readings, then it's OK.

Your TPS though is way higher than I like to see it for best street manners. You might want to bring it back to about .44 with the engine running (which will be about .42 with engine off, key on)

BLM 160 what's up with that? You got either a vacuum leak or header leak. Probably another contributing factor why your car isn't running just right. Probably pretty lean.

 

[trbochV6]

I do have a small leak at the turbo/DP mating surface. Which by the way, which hi temp RTV do people use on this? The TL that I am using has some pretty funny numbers to boot so I am not real sure if these are the actual readings.

 

[U1ARUNIT]

Permatex Ultra Copper works good for exhaust connections.

 

[TurboDave]

Originally posted by trbochV6
I do have a small leak at the turbo/DP mating surface. Which by the way, which hi temp RTV do people use on this? The TL that I am using has some pretty funny numbers to boot so I am not real sure if these are the actual readings.

Downpipe leaks wont affect what we're concerned with, it's a post turbo leak and the exhaust gasses have already done their work.
It's pre turbo exhaust leaks that are the killers. And vacuum leaks, even small hidden ones.

 

[trbochV6]

Today, I am going to check out any possible vac leak. Its possible that there might be a problem around the upper intake. When I put the Power plate in, I didnt use any rtv. I am going make sure I have a tight fit on it. Ill keep ya informed. Thanks a bunch on this.

 

[sixgun86gn]

I was getting those high BLMs as well.I just noticed today that my upper intake gasket wasnt sealed as good as I thought it was oily.I did use sealer on it but I guess it soaked up wd40 while looking for leaks.The idle never changed though.I will have to let you know if it changes when I get it back running this weekend.BTW I had some of those same symptoms until it blew a HG a week ago.

 

[trbochV6]

Well today I took off the upper intake, cleaned it up while I had it off and put it together with a bit of RTV. When I took it off, I did notice alot of oil on top of the Power plate and in the up pipe. I took off the up pipe, intercooler and MAF pipe. The turbo is brand new but the old one had a bad center section. I guess I should of did a spring cleanup on the intercooler because it had about a 1/3 of a quart of oil in it. I got out the carb cleaner and cleaned it out. Its drying out until tomorrow. But the upper intake seems to be the only place that could possibly have a leak. Everything is tight. Stay tuned for details >>>>>>>>>>>>

 

[TurboBob]

What PVC valve or check valve are you using.?

What are the cruise BLMs? Are the idle
BLM's always that high, or just after idling a while?

What version translator are you using?

Thanks

Bob

 

[trbochV6]

I am using a stock PCV valve AC Delco w/ no check valve

I didnt get a chance to get cruise BLMs since on the other readings from the T-link were crazy. Just for example, on normal mode, i would read 24 deg retard. Then on ALDL mode it would say 36 deg advanced, -58 deg MAT temp.

I have version 5.2

 

[sixgun86gn]

My BLMs from the time I installed the extender were around low 130s at startup and always increased steadily to 160 after warmup sitting in park at idle.

 

[TurboDave]

Originally posted by sixgun86gn
My BLMs from the time I installed the extender were around low 130s at startup and always increased steadily to 160 after warmup sitting in park at idle.

There's always a tendancy to do that. What are your idle BLM's after driving the car around and sitting at a traffic light or some other stopped situation?

 

[sixgun86gn]

They would be in the 130s after driving,but if it sat still long enough they would increase back up to 160.I think I had a vacuum leak in my intake and I'll know for sure after I get the car back running.Its almost there just waiting on new crossover gaskets from ATR.

 

[TurboBob]

that's usually the o2 sensor cooling off.

when the sensor is not quite warm enuf it makes the blm's rise. A partially lead-fouled sensor will do this too.

Usually there are no driveability issues from this except in extreme cases.

Cruise/light accel blms will tell a more accurate tale of how the chip/maf/translator stuff is working.

If the idle BLM rising after extended idle causes problems, just turn the open-loop idle stuff on (make sure the idle blms are where you want them first...)

Bob

 

[sixgun86gn]

It has never affected the performance of my car.I just noticed in this thread that the high blm was mentioned and was stating that mine did the same.I think the chip is great.I still have some learning to do with the T+ but the extender works fine.