Any easy way to remove wiring harness from pass. side fender area?

[DeltaT]

Hi,

I really don't want to disturb the metal fender as it is all aligned. I don't even care about that part of the harness as I am doing a LS swap and will never go back. I only need part of the wiring harness like the starter and charging circuits which go through the bulkhead on the driver's side.

Can I cut the connector off from the inside of the car then remove it reasonably easy?

All tips appreciated.

Thanks,

Jim

 

[SFI Cutlass]

I can't remember exactly but I think even without the heater box there, there is a cover that helps hold the wiring in place. It's very difficult to take off. If i had to do it again I would remove the entire passenger side off. Plus you'll be able to sell the harness if you can keep it intact.


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[tbone87]

Just drop the wheel well and it comes out pretty easy. And driver side pull the wiper motor take the bulk head screw out and its out also. Then u can pull the complete harness out and un plug the harness in the glove box to

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[DeltaT]

" drop the wheel well " - not sure what all this entails? Do you mean just the plastic liner? Can it be removed from the engine compartment, or do I just need to remove some bolts so I can get my hand in there to remove the connector?

I am willing to destroy the wire or connector if I can remove it without pulling the metal.

Thanks,

Jim

 

[tbone87]

Yes plastic inner fender. Just take it all loose and drop it down.

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[DeltaT]

I'll give it a go, thanks.

Jim

 

[movinfast]

Easier said than done.

its a pain to remove the wheel well. I just did that

 

[movinfast]

I'll give it a go, thanks.

Jim

Your have to take all the 13mm bolts out of the battery tray. The 10mm along the top and bottom of well. The hardest ones are the 3 under the a/c. Your going to have to peel the wheel well back to get to the bottom bolt. If u don't have a skew driver (right angle for a drill)get one that makes it easier

 

[DeltaT]

Thanks, that's very useful. It's the 3 under the AC that are clearly still in place as the thing will move at the front but is solid at the rear. When you say "peel the wheel well back", what exactly does that mean, please? Just grab it from the inside after removing the one bolt and trim screw and pull?

Thanks,

Jim

 

[movinfast]

Thanks, that's very useful. It's the 3 under the AC that are clearly still in place as the thing will move at the front but is solid at the rear. When you say "peel the wheel well back", what exactly does that mean, please? Just grab it from the inside after removing the one bolt and trim screw and pull?

Thanks,

Jim

Yeah pretty much. Even for the first bolt on the bottom I had to peel it back. I even went as far to remove the fender but kept the inner medal still in place

 

[movinfast]

Thanks, that's very useful. It's the 3 under the AC that are clearly still in place as the thing will move at the front but is solid at the rear. When you say "peel the wheel well back", what exactly does that mean, please? Just grab it from the inside after removing the one bolt and trim screw and pull?

Thanks,

Jim

that attached to a drill and a small adapter with a 10mm on the end works perfect

 

[DeltaT]

Thanks, got it out. I really appreciate the info. Bottom 2 holes turned into slots as I peeled back that stiff plastic, but no major deformation. It's a good time to clean out the water drain flap and area when it's off, plus I was able to take the entire liner outside last night and scrub and wash it - much easier and more thorough than on the car. A big win as it saved a lot of time trying to align the sheetmetal back to stock.

Regards,

Jim