- Joined
- Apr 4, 2002
Great looking car. Can't wait to see more pictures. Congrats on the find and welcome to the site. 
Happy spooling.
Mike Barnard
Happy spooling.
Mike Barnard
Another Jersey new guy...
- Thread starter Pliskin1
- Start date
PyrexChents
New Member
- Joined
- Feb 26, 2014
- New to this site. Can anybody direct me to a thread or give info on base regal to T type conversion. Specifically body changes? Or is difference mainly engine swap? Thanks sorry for the inconvenience
Thanks again for the welcome, guys. I continue to research everything on line that I possibly can. In my first (introduction) post, I mentioned that I could hold a conversation about mechanical stuff. I have now learned I am a complete and utter noob to this car.
As for shipping the car, I've finally made the arrangements. Car is scheduled to be picked up by 3/4, and delivered within 5 or so days after that. Once I have her in hand, I'll take some proper photos and get them on here. One the subject of shipping, a BIG thumbs up to turboc87 for reaching out to me. This guy is a plethora of information, and was a huge factor in helping me make my decision on a shipper. Can't thank him enough.
I've found this thread to be very helpful for a new to Buick Turbo person. (So thanks to the author).
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/info-for-new-turbo-regal-owners.380856/
Question on Scanmasters: Any suggestions on who/where to purchase from and why I should choose one model over the other? I know its easy enough, but real world experience is always appreciated.
As for shipping the car, I've finally made the arrangements. Car is scheduled to be picked up by 3/4, and delivered within 5 or so days after that. Once I have her in hand, I'll take some proper photos and get them on here. One the subject of shipping, a BIG thumbs up to turboc87 for reaching out to me. This guy is a plethora of information, and was a huge factor in helping me make my decision on a shipper. Can't thank him enough.
I've found this thread to be very helpful for a new to Buick Turbo person. (So thanks to the author).
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/info-for-new-turbo-regal-owners.380856/
Question on Scanmasters: Any suggestions on who/where to purchase from and why I should choose one model over the other? I know its easy enough, but real world experience is always appreciated.
Get the latest version scanmaster from turbotweak.com. You will be sent the latest version. The latest version can be upgraded with the purchase and install of the powerlogger, which then refreshes 5x a second. Turbotweak is a vendor and well respected. Also get a chip from him. Give mim the details of what is on the engine whether stock or what mods it has. Chips can be ordered through his website as well. Just double check what chip you got. The ecu where the chip is located is in the passenger kickpanel. Its the bigger looking chip.
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The car is being loaded as of 9:30 this morning. ETA in NJ is sometime on Thursday. Finally getting excited to get my hands on this thing!
Is it there? Did it come? Did you get it? Is it here? Where's the car? Did it arrive?
Yes, its here, lol. Will post up pics tomorrow. And a little story to go along with it!
So I'm excited that my car finally arrived. Showed up a little after noon yesterday. Went with "open" transport, so it was a little bit dirty (FL to NJ). Despite the 28* temps here in (northern) NJ, I washed it anyway. She's not perfect by any means. The interior is surprisingly clean. Paint is in pretty good shape, but I'll get it looking better (years ago I detailed cars, and have faithfully kept up the practice on my own cars). There's a couple dings here and there, and some very light surface rust by the passenger rear tire.
It needs those bumper fillers, front and back. They're pretty much shot. I know its got a brand new gas tank and fuel pump on it. (Too bad, but I don't believe the pump was upgraded while the new tank was installed). Brakes have about 400 miles on them. The turbo is new (less than 1000 miles). Its a stock replacement. A/C compressor was replaced sometime last year (system evacuated and brought up to today's standards).
I know the car is chipped, but I haven't pulled that out yet to see what it is. Hopefully this weekend.
There doesn't seem to be too many other mods, but I'll spend some time going over it this weekend. I know nothing about these cars.
There was some "bad" news. I decided to let the car idle in the driveway for a few minutes. Started leaking anti-freeze. A quick investigation and I see its actually the radiator, not a hose. So I have my first project lined up already. It must have been pretty cold during the transfer from FL to NJ. As I was looking for the coolant leak, I also noticed the washer fluid was frozen solid. (Even that's supposed to be good to -20!). And the overflow for the coolant was icy, although not frozen solid. So I suspect the anti freeze might have been old and perhaps a little too "watery", resulting in the radiator to fail.
Since I'm going to replace the radiator, should I consider the 160* t-stat as well? I've read here about doing that, but I'm wondering if being in a climate where it gets colder if its still something I should consider. I'll obviously be replacing the upper and lower hoses too.
So, here are a few pictures - washed (quickly), Odo, rear bumper filling MIA
It needs those bumper fillers, front and back. They're pretty much shot. I know its got a brand new gas tank and fuel pump on it. (Too bad, but I don't believe the pump was upgraded while the new tank was installed). Brakes have about 400 miles on them. The turbo is new (less than 1000 miles). Its a stock replacement. A/C compressor was replaced sometime last year (system evacuated and brought up to today's standards).
I know the car is chipped, but I haven't pulled that out yet to see what it is. Hopefully this weekend.
There doesn't seem to be too many other mods, but I'll spend some time going over it this weekend. I know nothing about these cars.
There was some "bad" news. I decided to let the car idle in the driveway for a few minutes. Started leaking anti-freeze. A quick investigation and I see its actually the radiator, not a hose. So I have my first project lined up already. It must have been pretty cold during the transfer from FL to NJ. As I was looking for the coolant leak, I also noticed the washer fluid was frozen solid. (Even that's supposed to be good to -20!). And the overflow for the coolant was icy, although not frozen solid. So I suspect the anti freeze might have been old and perhaps a little too "watery", resulting in the radiator to fail.
Since I'm going to replace the radiator, should I consider the 160* t-stat as well? I've read here about doing that, but I'm wondering if being in a climate where it gets colder if its still something I should consider. I'll obviously be replacing the upper and lower hoses too.
So, here are a few pictures - washed (quickly), Odo, rear bumper filling MIA
A little more info and question.
On the SPID, I'm glad to see it has the G80 and LC2 package.
Now, it also has code VD6 and VD7 for the aluminum bumper braces. (You can see that in the picture above). So what does that mean? If all the WE4s were black, did all the Regal Turbo's come with VD6 and VD7?
On the SPID, I'm glad to see it has the G80 and LC2 package.
Now, it also has code VD6 and VD7 for the aluminum bumper braces. (You can see that in the picture above). So what does that mean? If all the WE4s were black, did all the Regal Turbo's come with VD6 and VD7?
You can definitely do the 160* tstat. For the spring summer and fall during non freezing temp, run rmi-25 as directed on the bottle and during winter, drain that and put reg antifreeze in. Good thing about rmi25 is it keeps the motor just as cool as antifreeze but if you blow a headgasket (overboosting) its only water, so your bearings wont take a shit if it mixes with your oil. 160*tstat wont be bad.
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Thanks for the info Buddy and Trix.
Couple of questions, Trix - I understand on the RMI, and I took a quick look at their website. Since we are still experiencing some below freezing temps here in NJ, I might need to forgo this for now. (even though the car is garaged). But seems like a good product.
As for the drums, I plan on taking a look at those this weekend. But it brings me back to my original question: from everything that I've read over the last 3 weeks - including earlier posts in this thread - the WE4 only came in black. This car has definitely been maroon since day 1. Does that mean they did make them in colors other than black?
Couple of questions, Trix - I understand on the RMI, and I took a quick look at their website. Since we are still experiencing some below freezing temps here in NJ, I might need to forgo this for now. (even though the car is garaged). But seems like a good product.
As for the drums, I plan on taking a look at those this weekend. But it brings me back to my original question: from everything that I've read over the last 3 weeks - including earlier posts in this thread - the WE4 only came in black. This car has definitely been maroon since day 1. Does that mean they did make them in colors other than black?
RMI yea is not for now.
And then maybe it was custom order. Does any of the paperwork from the car say anything about it being ordered that way?
Maybe your car is just one of those odd examples of weird things that happened in the factory. There have been occasioms that engines did not match the stamping on the body or vin number but it was still the original engine.
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Thanks Trix. Not sure I follow your comment about "engine not match the stamping on the body"?
Here's some more details. As mentioned in my very first post, I bought this car from a family member (step dad). Contrary to what I said about him buying it in the 90's, he purchased this car new. I have the original "Sale Agreement" in his name, but no window sticker or anything that shows what options were ordered. The sale agreement shows this as a BURG REGAL NEW 1987 and the serial number (which we now call VIN).
I have the title. This is from 2006 when he moved to FL and had to register the car down there - he also changed the title. The title shows the previous state as NJ.
All numbers on the original sale agreement, title, RPO and dash tag match.
I don't know where else to look - on the shroud? And what would that tell me?
The frame has the last 6 digits of the vin number on the engine, trans and frame. If you search on this site, you will find the locations of all three. Some cars coming out the factory had them mixed up so some engines had a different vin on them than the car they were being placed into. The quality control was not that strict, very lenient.
If you can manage to do this, do it: Open your drivers doors and take off the interior upholstery that is on the door. Again there is a how to somewhere here how to do this or someone explained it. Once you take it off you will have access to the inside of the door (window regulator and all). Inside is the printout of what options the car had and such. That will be even more proof of what they put on in factory. If you want I could stop by and show you. That is if that sheet is still in there. Some people have found it under the rear seats. Others in the passenger door, but more often than not it was found in the drivers door.
