alternator charging problems???

[DOUNVME]

I have an 86 GN and an 85 regal with v6. I have the same problem with both cars. A new battery, a good alternator (13.8-14.1 volts) but the battery will not charge. Garyk1970 helped me with the 85 by running a wire from the alternator to the fuse box and I had to put a diode in it. I never attempted to repair the GN yet b/c I never drive it. Well, now I have the problem again with the 85. I am not getting 12 volts continuous power to the fuse box is the reason it will not charge now (through the wire that I ran several months ago), but I would like to repair them both the right way. Can anyone tell me where the fusible links are in the 85 N/A v6 and the 86 GN?? I believe if I make repairs to the fusible links, this will eliminate both of my problems.

Also, on the 85, I still have power to the fuse box on the ignition terminals, but no power to the continuous 12v sources that are labeled battery. I don't get it, and now I am stuck driving my truck!!!! I know none of you want that, so PLEASE HELP!! BTW, Gary is out of town on business and will not be back until WED.

 

[DOUNVME]

I forgot, every now and then, when I crank the GN to run it for a while, the scanmaster will sometimes show that it is charging (13-14 volts). Then, sometimes when I crank it up, it will only show 10.5-11.9 volts.

 

[DOUNVME]

anyone??? I have checked everything I know to check with a test light and a meter.......

 

[agteacher]

when you turn the key to the on position...does the Bat lit in the gauge cluster come on???? if the light is not lit, replace blub in cluster. Bat lit in cluster MUST light or no charge.

 

[my1stgn]

Could be a bad ground @ battery or corroded battery terminals. Put your positive lead on the battery negative and your negative lead on your chassis ground. You should have less than .5volts, anything more and you have a bad ground.

 

[DOUNVME]

The bulb was the problem for the charging in the 85, and I bet that is the problem in the 86. It just had a bad connection. That would explain why only sometimes the alternator has an output of 13-14 volts. Thank you so much guys!!

Thanks for the input for the battery terminals but all of that is new along with the battery.

THANKS AGAIN!!:biggrin: :wink: :smile:

 

[SloGN]

sounds like a bad ignition switch at the base of the steering coloumn

 

[Ryan]

when you turn the key to the on position...does the Bat lit in the gauge cluster come on???? if the light is not lit, replace blub in cluster. Bat lit in cluster MUST light or no charge.

Think I have the same problem. Wich bulb on the dash are you refering to? Is it the volt light? I have a GNX style dash.

 

[agteacher]

Bat light(not sure about the GNX style....but should be the same VOLT light)--- SHOULD lite when you turn the key to the "on" position.
Happy NEW YEAR!!!

 

[Ryan]

Just so I understand correctly. A burnt out bulb on the dash will prevent the alternator from charging?

 

[TURBOV6]

Just so I understand correctly. A burnt out bulb on the dash will prevent the alternator from charging?

Yes, if you noticed the plug on the white/clear plug on the alternator, that loops to the dash battery idiot light. If there is a break in the circuit the alternator will not charge the battery.

 

[Geoff87]

Here's the fix.... https://www.casperselectronics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=102032&Category_Code=

 

[HI85WH1]

Oh sure Geoff... something ELSE for me to buy for my new toy...

 

[Ryan]

Tow bill....new alternator......fixed by a 99 cent light buld. I feel stupid.:redface:

 

[Jerryl]

Tow bill....new alternator......fixed by a 99 cent light buld. I feel stupid.:redface:

Let's not start talking about "Bone Head Moves" we have all done!
Some of the "charging light bulb sockets" have a resistor. You can see the resistor of you look into the socket.
That way, if your bulb fails on the road, it will still charge.

Glad you got it fixed!

 

[Ryan]

Just for future reference...... Is there a tool or a homemade tool to remove a bulb in a tight spot? Like I said before, I have a GNX style dash. May be different from stock. Impossible to fit my fat fingers in there. Tried a needle nose with a cloth....broke buld. In the past I have used my spark plug pliers to remove and intsall bulbs.... perfect cause it has a soft rubber tip.... but these pliers are too large for my dash and it looks like a pain to remove the entire dash assy. I got the bulb in but it took a lot of patients and a lot of home made tools.

 

[Jerryl]

Just for future reference...... Is there a tool or a homemade tool to remove a bulb in a tight spot? Like I said before, I have a GNX style dash. May be different from stock. Impossible to fit my fat fingers in there. Tried a needle nose with a cloth....broke buld. In the past I have used my spark plug pliers to remove and intsall bulbs.... perfect cause it has a soft rubber tip.... but these pliers are too large for my dash and it looks like a pain to remove the entire dash assy. I got the bulb in but it took a lot of patients and a lot of home made tools.

A piece of thin plastic/rubber hose of the correct diameter works too sometimes.

 

[6=8]

There are 2 other failure "Points" in the charging circuit: The bulb socket contacts, and the cluster connection points (Connector/Flex circuit)

My car had the resistor in the socket to prevent a burnt out bulb from causing charging issues, But I still had a failure here. The electrical contact points of the socket were suffering from corrosion causing intermittent problems. I could also see if a plastic socket tabs broke, it would cause a similar disconnect issue. If the bulb fails to light when the ignition is turned on, it could be more than a bad bulb... and should be fixed ASAP!

This is a maintenance issue, now that our otherwise well maintained 20 year old cars have lived this long. I took the whole cluster apart, cleaned each connection point and electrical contact using fine steel wool (Especially the exposed copper pads on the flex circuits) and then coated everything with dielectric grease to slow down the oxidation process. Did this about 4 years ago, and no more issues! Oh yeah, I also pay more attention to the idiot lights during key on and then startup! I also like flipping through the ScanMaster every now and then...Keep tabs on those volts!