Alky pump power loss

trbojo

'Stang Stinger
Joined
Jun 7, 2003
Julio... Joe Lombardo here.I've checked ALL power from the battery, fuse links, bulkhead and replaced the ignition switch and battery. I've also checked grounds. Again, I found no smoking gun, other than the weak battery. Getting ready to recheck the system in a few minutes. If I'm still having the voltage drop, what are the next few steps to check?
 
OK.. New battery.. New ignition switch... Checked bulkhead, fuse links, grounds, tightened up all terminals, connectors, etc... STILL losing almost 3 volts at the alky pump... Started checking in the car at the controller... With the pump commanded full duty it looks like I'm losing 1 volt through the GROUND circuit of the controller: I checked voltage on the red wire, pump output side of the controller with the ground lead of my meter attached to the dash where the controller is grounded.. I measure 13.4 with the car running.. I moved my meter ground lead to the same side as the positive lead, on the output side of the controller and it drops to 12.4 volts.. So there's 1 volt loss.. Still need to find the other 2...
 
Another thing I checked was resistance across the pump motor black and red terminals.... Measurement on the pump I'm using is .8 ohms... To compare I checked my old pump which probably was good but leaked probably from sitting dry when I swapped it the other day and I measured 1.5 ohms.. Don't know what the reading it's supposed to be...
 
The question is pump speed controlled with ground, positive or both....?
This is a good question for Julio...alky system not performing? Sorry if already stated.
 
From what I've checked I think it's controlled by the ground side... I have some of this posted over in the alky forum so I'm waiting on Julio for that....
 
But at least I know for a fact at this point that it is NOT a supply voltage or supply ground issue....
 
You mentioned the ohms were lower on this pump.....more of a load (lower ohms) will drop volts as controller works harder
 
BINGO!!! that's kinda where I'm leaning..... We'll see..... I hope.... Like I said... This car is just a downright f#$%cking nightmare sometimes... Like all of them...
 
I have full voltage at the pump connector with the pump disconnected.... Bad connections can cause a voltage drop, but so can bad components (motor) correct?? Like you said.. Resistance... Kinda like putting a carbon pile load tester across a battery... As you DECREASE resistance, the voltage drops...
 
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BTW.. The last few comments were from another thread of mine in general tech.. I'll post a link if you care to read...
 
you're over complicating this
you have plenty of pressure with 135psi
just went 141 with that pressure on dual 10 nozzles
 
you're over complicating this
you have plenty of pressure with 135psi
just went 141 with that pressure on dual 10 nozzles
I'm not over complicating it.... I have a fueling issue and right now it's looking like the alcohol system is part of that problem..... I got into an argument with someone on the phone last week I'm being told that I need full battery voltage at the alcohol for pump for maximum output and I don't have it.... Now I've gone over everything on the car's electrical system and it looks like I'm back to the alcohol system as a source of the problem....
 
HOLY SHIT HOUSTON I THINK WE HAVE SUCCESS!!! So I did one more thing... Again, remember in all of this I still never really found the "smoking gun" per se.... I've known for awhile that there was corrosion under the cover for the pos battery cable.... I found a neat little repair end today and replaced it... It still did not change my voltage readings at all... I'm thinking it's a possibility that by the battery being weak, the alternator just wasn't able to keep up with demand under load causing everything in the system to be marginal at best.. I'm still only able to get a max of 150 psi on the alky pump but apparently it is enough.. On to the show.... Went for a couple of test hits and my IDC is down from 105-107% to 88-90% !!!! I'll post some logs in a bit..
 
At the performance level the motor is at.. probably 100-110 psi would be plenty.
This all started with IDC going over 100%. New battery, new alternator, fix corroded terminals, etc etc etc.. now we have power all over the car like its supposed to be. And the IDC went down.
When you called the other day.. your where testing on a weak car battery. Battery voltage was dropping into the 9's when you where using the tester.
I think your fine..
 
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