Aeromotive Pro Series Pump/ #11102

I have been looking into this very same thing and here's wat i have come up with so far (remember tis is just what i have heard)

Weldon and Aeromotive pumps both say not for use on street due to overheating

Weldon pump has an optional switch to run slower when on the street.

Weldon pump is rebuildable, but dies more often, Aeromotive is not rebuildable.

Weldon pump at full race watage is alot louder than Aeromotive.

So if you go with a Weldon,you have to figure on buying that switch, and throw in a rebuild kit (you'll want one just because it is rebuildable) so the total price would prolly reach the $900 to $1,000 range, but you get what you pay for , i guess.

That is the decision i am at right now, and i'm not leaning towards either, but luckily i still have time.
 
I replaced my entire fuel system over the winter, including addition of the Pro Series Aeromotive. BTW, mine is chrome not gold-colored. I 'm still in the process of lining out the fuel map for 160#s, but I haven't had any overheating problem with it yet. Aeromotive also makes a controller, which I assume is similar in function to the Weldon (cut voltage for street cruising).

Art
 
I use the Aeromotive PRo Series Pump.I have had it in the car for about 3 months and it has seen limited street use so far no problems with it.It not as loud as the Weldon but it's not exactly quite either.


REG
 
WELDON VS AEROMOTIVE

In the FWIW dept. I have the "ELIMINATOR" series AERO pump. I called their engineering guy and got the following info.

I provided the following:
800 FWHP
Currently using 95PPH injectors.
Max boost at 25 PSI.

They came with the "Eliminator" pump as the car is dual purpose.
Their math was based on:
Max Boost plus 42PSI base fuel pressure. [Pump will operate @ 68psi.]
13.5 VDC at the pump.
82% DC.
BSFC @ .6

Engine will require 480 PPH of fuel and the pump will supply over 600 under the above conditions.

The Eliminator requires -6 return lines and they recommended the "Y" block be fed w/ -10 and then split to 2 -8's.
They also said a 70 to 100 micron screen filter is required B4 the pump, along w/ a check valve as close to the tank as possible.
After the pump filter should be a 10 micron.

I set mine up w/ 9/16" fuel rail, -8's into each rail and a -6 out of each rail to the reg.
The tank to pump is -12, pump to engine is -10, return form reg to tank is -8, as that was already there.

Bottom line: If you are not over the 8-- to 900 range, use the smaller pump and have a quieter system that will, most likely last longer and cost less.
 
Thanks guys for all the replies. Im starting to put together the fuel system in preparation for my stage(4.1 off center) motor to be done. As usual with these motors ,Thats not going well,...... nothing new right?

I figured i build the fuel system now while i have my gridled block in and have time to work everything out. My plans are to go 10.0-9.80s at 3550 lbs or so.

I have been advised to go Weldon 2015, and I know its capabilties, but that sucker is loud. I was advised against the Eliminator as i have been told it was too close for comfort and told to go with the Pro unit. I guess i will do some more research.
 
What are the symptons of overheating? Pump failure? I run a Pro on my car and drive it daily and have had no problems as of yet. Longest drive has been an hour and a half to the track then a whole day of racing with no problems.
greg
 
Summit, for how long at a shot?? I think it says to run it no longer than 15 minutes at a time .
 
GNScott,
where did you get that info. Thats why I asked here as the Aeromotive website doesnt mention anything about time limits or over heating.


I have another question. Does the flow of these pumps increase when higher voltage is introduced as compared to an intank walbro?Again using the Aero pumps, would they flow more at say 14.5 volts than 13.5v or does their design prevent them from this.Not trying to sound stupid, Just wondering ...................
 
The Felpro log file showed the duty cycle for my 72# injectors was hitting over 90%. I ran -8 feed line and -6 return with a stock fuel rail and a acufab regulator and a sumped tank. I ran a fuel gage a few times when i first got the car going and it barely keep up to 30# boost. Base was 42# and it would max out at 69 or 70# at 30# boost and just fatend up the fuel map up there to cover it.Now ive upgraded to the pro pump to make sure with -10 feed line and a Hogans intake and there fuel rails :)
 
Howd you run the acufab regulator into the line, adapter or cut the bottom and weld a bung on? How about the feed side of the rail? Did you run both the 100m and the 10m filters?

I think thats all my questions. :D
 
The return line was kinda a joke but it worked. It really has no presure on it so i just cut the stock return line and slipped on the -6 line and put 2 hose clamps on it.The feed line i bought a fitting from PTE that screws right in to the fuel rail and the other end is a -8 male and that worked good. I bought 2 fitting that i used for the filters and they just screw right into the inlet and outlet of the pump. I had to turn the ends down on the fitting but it worked out good. I built a rubber mounted bracket for the pump that fits behind the bumper. This is not a verry good shot but you can see the prefilter is screwed right into the inlet end of the pump and the same on the outlet side. The loop in the hose is to keep the pump from ever draining completly back and have dry fire ups witch is the main cause for failure. This at least keep some fuel in the inlet end of the pump at all times. You are suppost to have the pump below the fuel level but that would be pretty hard to do with a sumped stock tank without having it the lowest part of the car dragging on the ground. If you have a fuel cell mounted up it easy to be under the fuel level. Clear as mud now ill bet LOL
http://www.netSnapShot.com/users/2412/images/O9WoBsCoBQIAAD8dawQ_2412_9.pjpeg
 
Geno,
just double checking. Which pump were you using? The Eliminator or the smaller one?
 
Okay, I'm not a turbo buick guy, but I'm dealing with the same sort of system and i have a few questions.

Whats everybody doing about the check valve?

I see that aeromotive sells one, but where should it be placed.

I would imagine that it should be before the pump to keep the pressure in the fuel lines for startup. But will it cause a restriction that way that will impede flow to the pump? After all its on the suction side of the pump.


TIA

TurboTony
 
The A1000 its the smaller one:)
My check valve is srewed right into the after filter..Not on the inlet side:D
 
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