What should my car 60 ft be leaving at 5 lbs of boost with combo listed below? Running MT ET Drags. 13 1/2 psi. TT chip 23/21 timing and running 21 lbs of boost. Stock convertor. The reason I ask is because last night the best it would do was a horrible 2.17! Thanks, R.B.
A 60 ft question?
- Thread starter rb68rr
- Start date
GNVYUS 1
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2002
O2 volts are good at WOT, use the blm for your launching, idling etc when tuning.
IMO your WOT mid to high readings look good, hit us back with your blm when you brake torque at 5psi.
I would add some air to the tires and are you running on stock brakes??
IMO your WOT mid to high readings look good, hit us back with your blm when you brake torque at 5psi.
I would add some air to the tires and are you running on stock brakes??
If you don't have one, get a line lock. Doing a brake burnout can heat up the rear brakes and allow pushing.
The trick to to leaving with more boost is to trick the convertor and brakes.
Boost to as much as the brakes will hold (in your case, about 5 psi) and as the tree comes down, rapidly mash the accellerator to the floor, while still holding the brake. Release the brake and go.
The rapid WOT will slightly bog the car, while making the turbo go to full spool. The result is your leave will be closer to 10-15 psi.
It takes a little practice to get the technique down, but it is the best way to launch a stock converter car, especially when you have enough tire to take the shock.
If the spool is lazy, make sure there are no preturbo header/crossover leaks, your FP isn't too high and definately try another chip to see if you can lean out your launch.
The trick to to leaving with more boost is to trick the convertor and brakes.
Boost to as much as the brakes will hold (in your case, about 5 psi) and as the tree comes down, rapidly mash the accellerator to the floor, while still holding the brake. Release the brake and go.
The rapid WOT will slightly bog the car, while making the turbo go to full spool. The result is your leave will be closer to 10-15 psi.
It takes a little practice to get the technique down, but it is the best way to launch a stock converter car, especially when you have enough tire to take the shock.
If the spool is lazy, make sure there are no preturbo header/crossover leaks, your FP isn't too high and definately try another chip to see if you can lean out your launch.
:biggrin: Now this guy knows how to launch a turbo Buick on the foot brake with good tires.
Way back around 1999/2000 on slicks and brake boosting to 4/5 lbs. "BUT" like he said going down on the gas pedal right before releasing the brake pedal I would get into low 1.5's and even 1.4's.
This past Friday I went to the track for the first time since 2003 with the Buick and Firestone Firehawks (REAL street tires) using a little different launch technique and the best on that evening's track surface I could muster were a few 1.80 60 fts. (1.7's on Pepboy tires were the norm)
Way back around 1999/2000 on slicks and brake boosting to 4/5 lbs. "BUT" like he said going down on the gas pedal right before releasing the brake pedal I would get into low 1.5's and even 1.4's.
This past Friday I went to the track for the first time since 2003 with the Buick and Firestone Firehawks (REAL street tires) using a little different launch technique and the best on that evening's track surface I could muster were a few 1.80 60 fts. (1.7's on Pepboy tires were the norm)
UNGN said:
When I launch mine at 6-7 psi it takes off fast w/o wheelspin for a split second then hits 18psi fast and spins drag radials on the street. Is this typical for you guys running 1.7-1.9 60ft times or do yours just snap your neck and go right from the start?
Dreamcar86
Active Member
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2006
Holding at the line
If you are having problems holding the car on the line you should do two things.
1) as mentioned above - get a line lock for you burnout. 2) upgrade the rear wheel cylinders to S10 manual brake cylinders and buy two sets of cheap shoes from your local auto parts store so you can use the long pads and toss the short ones in the trash. By the way, the brake upgrade is under $45.00.
This combination will allow you to go to the line with cool brake drums and more holding power. See if this helps the ole 60' time.
If you are having problems holding the car on the line you should do two things.
1) as mentioned above - get a line lock for you burnout. 2) upgrade the rear wheel cylinders to S10 manual brake cylinders and buy two sets of cheap shoes from your local auto parts store so you can use the long pads and toss the short ones in the trash. By the way, the brake upgrade is under $45.00.
This combination will allow you to go to the line with cool brake drums and more holding power. See if this helps the ole 60' time.
flattype said:
1.7/1.9 60 ft.'s will not snap your neck; it's closer to taking off in front of a police station's traffic light.
Last Friday when I put down a couple 1.80's on Firestones I launched at zero "0" boost and then "tried" to walk the gas pedal down at a certain "rate" for my car's power to put down a good 60 ft.Being your car first sticks at 6/7 lbs. I would practice walking the pedal down from there at whatever rate it will take so it is on the edge. Depending on how fast the power comes on after launch sometimes you may even have to back off slightly before walking the pedal down if you want to launch at that boost. Just my $.02, take it for what it's worth. :biggrin:
On my car, the M/T drag radials like to be at 14.5-14.75psi on 10" rims. You shouldn't have any traction problems until you are in the 1.5 60' range, then you may need to play with pinion anlge/shocks/air bags, etc.
If you cant at least get into the 1.7-1.8 range, you need to 1) be able to hold the car at the line better (better brakes), and 2) need a chip/program that will make the car spool faster.
If you cant at least get into the 1.7-1.8 range, you need to 1) be able to hold the car at the line better (better brakes), and 2) need a chip/program that will make the car spool faster.
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