1st time cherry picking a 109, got some "Q"

V8KILLR

2speed 1day fast & faster
Joined
Nov 25, 2002
This is going to be my first time cherry picking the 109 out of my GN. I just had some questions, if any one can be some help. Which bolts should I use and where are the located? Should I use the bolts that are in the block now? Back them out and run the chain around them? Or should I go to a Hardware store and buy some? If that is what I should do, could you tell me the bolt diameter, length, thread angle, and thread density?

Much thanks,
Jason
 
Use the bracket at the front passenger corner of the intake manifold and for the rear of the drivers side (intake manifold), use a longer grade8 bolt (after you remove the EGR solenoid). You can loop your chain to those points. If I had to do this over again, I would purchase another engine bracket (like the one on the front passenger corner of the intake) and use it on the rear corner. Don't forget to use a floor jack under the transmission and once the engine is lifted out (partially), disconnect the ground wires and detent calble bracket from the rear of the cylinder heads. Any other questions, just email or post.
 
Use the bracket on the front passenger side of the intake and the hole in the top of the block on the drivers side - reach down past the coil pack on the drivers side of the knock sensor and you will feel it. Use a short chain with a fairly small hook on each end (the hole in the block is only about 1" or less), and just long enough so that there is about 2" of clearance between chain and vacuum block on top of the doghouse. Hook onto this chain over the doghouse with as short a chain as your cherry picker allows, and start coming forward towards the radiator as you come up, once you clear the motor mounts, and you can just fit the motor between hood and radiator core support without disconnecting the hood support shocks. Of course this assumes you are not pulling motor and trans together :).
 
Thanks for the help guys, hoping to pick it this weekend. I'll let yall know how things go.

Jason
 
My picker wouldn't reach far enough to come over the radiator. (the engine sets back so far) I had to come out over the fender. I did have the trans already dropped. (I would suggest that)
 
Originally posted by Mike70gtx
My picker wouldn't reach far enough to come over the radiator. (the engine sets back so far) I had to come out over the fender. I did have the trans already dropped. (I would suggest that)

I had that problem, too. If you take the bumper and grille off you should get enough clearance. I just pulled mine out from the side. Makes it harder to put back in that way, though. When you put it back in bolt the trans up first - you'll be glad you did.

Jim
 
I'll take that advice. Mine is going back in in a couple weeks. I have to put on my new front mount intercooler so I guess the grill and bumber just as well come off.
 
And the easy way to do the trans bellhousing bolts is from underneath with a 3/8" drive 9/16" swivel socket on a 3 foot long extension. 2 feet kind of works but you will scrape your hands on the converter shield and trans pan. There is no downsides to going longer and it sure makes it easier; even 4 foot would work just fine, better than a 2' extension. Snap-on sells a nice 3' extension with a 1/2" drive female end so you can use the bigger 1/2" drive ratchet or even an air or battery impact gun, and a 3/8" male end for a more compact socket that is really sweet.
 
update on putting my motor back in. I put the tranny on the motor and put them in together. Took off bumper and grill.
I had trouble at first. Had to take off crank pulley to get it in the engine compartment. Then hooked a "come along" to pull the tranny back toward the rear. I finally got the trans down in there a ways. But I had the motor at too much of an angle. The valve covers where hitting on top. and the starter was hitting on the crossmember. Took off starter, then was hitting the ignition module plate, took it off. I was about ready to take it back out and take the trans off when my 78 year old dad came out and tried to give me some advice. I FINALLY LISTENED. I got a floor jack under the trans and leveled the motor out. I had motor and trans at about a 45 degree angle. I worked it back out got it level and it went in fairly easy. I'd lower the motor and inch it back a little at a time and keep it level by raising the trans with the jack. I did have to extend the cherry picker out farther and moved the chain up to the front of the motor.
Just thought I'd add this if any first timers like me do a search.
 
i got done with my engine swap and i had to take off the oil pan to get clearance
 
Originally posted by Mike70gtx
Just thought I'd add this if any first timers like me do a search.

FWIW, I used this method this past week at work and I know it would make life in a Buick easier....

Take 2 bolts, maybe 2 bolts like used in the engine stand...somewhere around 4-5" long, cut the heads off and cut a slot in the end that a screwdriver will fit into. Screw these 2 "studs" which we will use as guidepins, into 2 holes that you will be able to remove them once the engine is in, in a TR I suggest the 2 sidemost/lower bolts...at 9 and 3 oclock.... Now, drop the motor in, slide your new studs/guidepins into the corresponding trans holes, now you're lined up horizontally... push the engine in, then level it off in relation to the trans (you DO already have the trans jacked up as high as it goes right?), go in the rest of the way. Use 2 bolts to pull the engine to the trans nice and tight, remove your studs and complete installation.

I did this on an E350 this past week and it worked totally tits! Took me longer to cut the heads off the bolts than to bolt the engine/trans together, and no, none, ZERO alignment issues!
 
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