.080 plug gap

[SuperSport30]

anyone ever heard of this ? pulled the plugs out of the 87 gn i bought
on friday.plugs were gapped at .080! car runs like junk, replaced the tps and set to .42, replaced
the iac but cant set car wont start during calibration. new plugs and
wires ?cr43ts? ac delcos and gapped to .035.car ran fair last night. now car wont start, tries but wont run.


ordered a powerlogger will i need a scanmaster as well?

help!
car is driving me nuts!

thanks
SS

 

[ES1]

Often, on stock set ups, about 1-1 1/2 threads of the adjustment screw will emerge thru on the lever side of the throttle body.
Try this on the IAC.

The PL will work just fine.

 

[SuperSport30]

thanks ill turn the screw in tomorrow see if i can get it to start/idle.

 

[GNVYUS 1]

.080 is not going to run well under boost, but .035 on 43's is good.

Did you replace the TPS and IAC because they were a problem or just because??

I would ditch the wires, plugs, oil, tranny fluid, rear end fluid, pcv and fuel filter. Then you know for sure that those maintenance items are done and at what car mileage.

Check to make sure your EGR is totally tightened down and try putting your old IAC back in.

 

[Boost231]

wow never heard of .080 but i have seen some weird ****. anyways try the adjustment screw. the car was probley so out of wack that they tried all kinds of stuff to get it to run right. once you get it where it will fire up we can work from there and getting everything else squared away.

 

[SuperSport30]

heres the story........................

bought this car off ebay,1987 gn w/ t-tops runs engine rebuilt w/ receipts (story on the rebuild. rings bearings gaskets,piston and cam kit, honed and
valve job,crank polished. hmmm.) advertised to run and drive as it should.
went to pick up the car friday planned to drive it home.the guy said no prob.
fired the car up idled really rough.(sounded like a huge cam in a bad way or vac leak. or what i thought was tps sensor not properly set. drove the car to
dinner 4-5 miles away stalled 6 or 7 times.rented a tow dolly and brought it home.
Sat morning ...1) checked the tps...not set at all, read no voltage set to .42
test drive ,ran better, still poor idle, bogged on wot ,fair turbo spool.
2) replaced plugs and wires gapped 43s at .035 noticed plugs with .080 gap
suspected this was my wot bog.
test drive, still poor idle,bog was better but still there,
3) attempted to reset the iac via recommended procedure.checked tps again..42 ok
car wouldnt start or run without iac plugged up. repeated 3-4 times
replaced iac. repeated above .. no luck plugged the new iac up.
vehicle idled much better but not smoothly.drove vehicle several places. car began to stall and then started with more and more effort.
sunday after sitting overnight vehicle refused to start. checked nipple on the fuel rail,hear the fuel pump prime.fuel squirts out the nipple.
checked the spark form the coil pack.firing.replaced the o2 (it was original)
pulled one plug. it was wet with unburned fuel. coil pack? control module? ecm?
thats where i am right now.

thanks for any and all help!!!!
SS:

 

[Boost231]

i would prime the motor a few times pull the plugs and see if there all wet or just 1 or 2 are wet. then i would put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and see what happens. sounds like you might be having a injector or a few injectors leaking down.

 

[mikestertwo]

Any mods? Get a scan tool on it. Power Logger works great! You may have a bad MAF. I wouldn't be doing much driving until you get a scan tool on it to see what's going on.

 

[Boost231]

he is doing a very good job at taking it one step at a time and getting problems fixed. you need to put a fuel pressure gauge on it and see what hapens when you prime it. my car ran like that when i had one injector stuck Wide Open all the time.

 

[ChavoLC2]

New Car

You said you set the TPS to 0.42 , 2 different times and said nothin about WOT TPS voltage( you mash the pedal to the floor be sure and move your floor mat and see what the voltage is. It's a 2 man job one person in the car reading numbers to you as you adjust and tighten . The key is keeping idle tps on the money as you adjust the wot tps. Well when you start turning "the screw" you will change TPS settings/voltage and will have to readjust. So get your IAC set 1st , get numbers in the ballpark then reset TPS. Is the car throwing any codes at you . Have you Used the paper clip on ALDL yet? Then watch the service light flash it's codes, this would /maybe the easiest way since you don't have a Scan tool to see what codes the ECM sees. This might be a place to start. My 1st car had all kinds of codes. O2 sensor bad,MAF bad, rich condition etc etc. Mine had a stock MAF and you tap it and the car would stumble. All this stuff works in synergy together. There's a list of codes at gnttype.org.

gnttype.org will be of great help. They have a step by step instructions.

 

[SuperSport30]

wot on the tps was in range 4.55 if i remember.
i have another set of injectors 36# blue tops and the 93 octane chip to go with but i was hesitant to install them w/o the engine running properly
in a stock config.

the injector theory is very possible, heres why. i recall the reason that
the engine had to be rebuilt,according to "the former owner" some one had installed a fuel pump hotwire kit and the injector(s) ,running constantly,
had washed the cylinder or filled it. he said rod problem,could have been hydrolock i guess. never thought about it ,but the only way that could have happened would have been a leaky injector,if the initial problem whas never corrected(the injector)and the hotwire kit was removed(now ill have to put another one on:biggrin: but later)and replaced with a factory setup.
sooo.... to mod or not to mod that is the question.

SS

 

[SuperSport30]

answering questions ;

no visible mods except a k and n filter

someone has cut/disabled the following.... the water temp vdo gauge
the manual vdo boost gauge , an the vdo oil pressure gauge.
the tach in dash doesnt work and the fuel gauge as well
crap.

ill find a fuel pressure gauge and check it.

initial code before i started was the standard 12 and 22 (the tps wasnt set at all.) no codes right now but im not sure if everything is talking to the computer or rigged. would love to check the maf with the old pull the plug stand by method but it wont start either way now!


the .080 plug gap gets me thinkiing that i might not have the compession
to fire the fuel charge and someone gapped the plugs like that in an effort to compesate for it? ideas?

thanks alot! its amazing what comes to light when a few tr people put their heads together.let me know any ideas!

SS

 

[ChavoLC2]

Ss30

What injectors do you have in there now?, I must have missed it 36's? You say you have another set of 36#s so I'm assuming they're 36's. If the injectors are the ones in the car at time of washout, which cylinder did he say went kapoop, change that injector and see if she'll at least start up, or change them all with the ones you know are legit(about an hour).

That's a bummer everything in the way of gauges is disconnected. Fuel pres gauge would help in diagnosing injector bleed down. 231's idea about checking injectors sounds solid because your fuel pressure should not bleed down right away after turning car off. Also as he mentioned priming engine then checking for wet plugs, change those injectors. That is if both sets are 36's. Crank sensor checks out in the right position ?

There's some sharp guys on here I'm not one of them . Well good luck keep pluggin away at it, you'll trace it down.

 

[Boost231]

well that makes since. i would change those injectors out with a set that you know are good. if you have another set and are not sure if there good send them out to CODY MOTORSPORTS and he will clean and flow them and make sure all is good and there cheap. once you get them back put them in. if the injectors are still leaking down then you have a ground problem. and about what you said with the prior owner that seems to be the place to look and yes you could hurt a rod if you fill that cylinder up with fuel and tray cranking the motor over thats not good. dont run the motor till you get this figured out. also you could drain the oil and see if it smells like fuel if it does its leaking bad.

 

[SuperSport30]

ok guys, little more info....

checked the fuel pressure 35# with the key in the on position.30# running.
screwed the iac in ,had the wife crank it. ive got no faith in the car at this point. it started! reset the tps at .46/wot 4.49
1)test drove, veh tried to die stepped on the pedal.backed off and touched it really lightly. rpms picked up and it pulled through rpm range fairly well.drove for 2-3 miles stopped for 5-8 min veh was hard to start, but did.
came back reset the tps to .43 didnt check woh this time
2) test drove, some of the off idle bog improved veh pulled ok through rpm range. noticed several times upon acceleration veh would bog and sputter
i have a set of blue top injectors arent they 36#
what are factory injectors?

where should we go from here gents? that is provided it starts tomorrow!

thanks
SS

 

[ChavoLC2]

Factory

Factory injectors were 28lbers I believe.

30psi with line on is way looooww. That's lower then you set an TT emmisions chip. FP is standardly set at 42.5 if you have an adjustable FPR set her to 42.5 line off and see what she does. If it leaks down more then a couple psi according to you FPG then for sure something is going on with your fuel delivery system.

If you have a injector or 2 washing out it would seem to me like flooding a NA engine, it would/could be hard to start . monitor tps voltage thru simulated acceleration since you can't get to WOT safely yet(key on engine off, you knew that already), to see if voltage is smooth and even. Have your wife push the pedal up and down while you monitor tps voltage from idle to wot. You could have a rough spot in the middle somewhere

With it running now can you do the old MAF test to see if she stumbles? Well at least she's starting and able to take her around the block.

After driving her around did you check plugs to see if any were wet again?

 

[Boost231]

good info posted above. you need to get a scan tool on it so you can set IAC and take a look at the blm and int. one thing for sure turn that fuel pressure up.