Wtb passenger quarter panel

TireFryer

The New Kid
I’m slowly putting an engine together and am going to go with a roller cam. Does the full throttle roller need a shim style cam button? I’ve read that you don’t need one and can just run a stock style roller one. Is this true? The motor has forged TRW pistons and all new arp hardware everywhere. I’ll be putting my ported campion irons and matching intake on it as well. Also a 45a or similar turbo. I’m looking at the 210/215 cam that they have or the 214/214. Thanks in advance!
 

proptop

Active Member
Sir,
I have been informed to install between .006 - .007 endplay. Watch the gasket as it will compress. Mine moved about .004 after it torqued down during setup and I chased my Butt for awhile until the Board member came to my rescue.
Bob
 

Ttype6

Well-Known Member
I’m slowly putting an engine together and am going to go with a roller cam. Does the full throttle roller need a shim style cam button? I’ve read that you don’t need one and can just run a stock style roller one. Is this true? The motor has forged TRW pistons and all new arp hardware everywhere. I’ll be putting my ported campion irons and matching intake on it as well. Also a 45a or similar turbo. I’m looking at the 210/215 cam that they have or the 214/214. Thanks in advance!
That 210/215 will work well. The 214/214 has XFI lobes that open very fast so they need a much stronger valve spring. There just isn't enough benefit to running that set-up. The 210/215 will be easier on the valve train.
 

turbofabricator

Well-Known Member
I have used both the shim style thrust bumper and a spring style thrust bumper on Full Throttle hyd. roller cams. Both work well in low 10 second 134 mph cars. Never an issue with either set-up. I now use the spring loaded roller devices on all but stageII builds.
Has anyone ever had an issue with the spring thrust device? I didn't want to do it, but the customer wanted to try it. So I discussed the potential issues and he agreed to the "test" and has run 9.8's @136 with it. Works for me now.
 

TireFryer

The New Kid
I have used both the shim style thrust bumper and a spring style thrust bumper on Full Throttle hyd. roller cams. Both work well in low 10 second 134 mph cars. Never an issue with either set-up. I now use the spring loaded roller devices on all but stageII builds.
Has anyone ever had an issue with the spring thrust device? I didn't want to do it, but the customer wanted to try it. So I discussed the potential issues and he agreed to the "test" and has run 9.8's @136 with it. Works for me now.
What!???!? I thought you had to have the thrust style!!! And only use the spring ones on the flat tappet cams?!!?
 

turbofabricator

Well-Known Member
There are a lot of guys running the spring type. Like I said, I was reluctant to try it, but it worked perfect, so now that is what I use mostly.
While on this topic, be SURE to debur the oil feed hole (to the cam sensor gear). It is hardened metal and any burs will grind into the block face. It seems most cam grinders miss this very important step. A little grinding stone works the best.
 

Chuck Leeper

Toxic old bastard
Staff member
If the adjustable roller type button locks up, it will bore a hole into the wp. Guess what's on the other side.
 

RED LS1

SENIOR MEMBER
I just acquired a FTS roller cam from a parted out build. It was using a shim style button with a good bit of shims on it. I have yet to install yet. I've only installed the Flat Tappet style with the spring button.
 

turbofabricator

Well-Known Member
I just acquired a FTS roller cam from a parted out build. It was using a shim style button with a good bit of shims on it. I have yet to install yet. I've only installed the Flat Tappet style with the spring button.
You will have to check end play on your engine. Start with the stack up you have, but tighten the timing cover slowly while pushing the cam back and forth (with a big screwdriver through one of holes in the lifter valley). Time consuming to do it right. You might need more or less shims for your stack up of parts.
 

Buick Mark

Active Member
The BIGGEST issue I see using the stock thrust button on a roller cam is the cam is ALWAYS going to be pushes rearward against the cam bore cup plug as theres no flange on the nose of the cam like a flat tappet.
Roller cams should "float" a wee bit.
 

RED LS1

SENIOR MEMBER
You will have to check end play on your engine. Start with the stack up you have, but tighten the timing cover slowly while pushing the cam back and forth (with a big screwdriver through one of holes in the lifter valley). Time consuming to do it right. You might need more or less shims for your stack up of parts.

Thank you, buddy. I went through one of these motor before with a new Comp Flat Tappet. My brother did the work though and I was just there learning. That was a spring button. I have put a few small block Fords together myself so I'm familiar with the end play but the Shimmed button is new. I appreciate the input.
 

Ttype6

Well-Known Member
The BIGGEST issue I see using the stock thrust button on a roller cam is the cam is ALWAYS going to be pushes rearward against the cam bore cup plug as theres no flange on the nose of the cam like a flat tappet.
Roller cams should "float" a wee bit.
The cam gear limits rearward movement.
 

Buick Mark

Active Member
My bad, the flange is there on most roller cams, I was thinking of the cam thrust plate that TA performance sells.
 
Top